The Merry Table Crêperie - Portland, Maine

Every since my husband and I trekked through France with friends, I've had an obsession for crêpes. It all started in the town of Beaune where we had the most incredible mushroom crêpes with Béchamel sauce at a tiny bakery in the village square. They were so delicious that on our last morning in that town, I set our alarm clock so we could go to the bakery one last time before our 9:00am train.

Any of you who have spent time in the countryside of France are probably laughing right now, knowing that no one in France eats that early. Sure enough, we arrived at the bakery and it was closed. The baker was there, groggy from the early hour. He saw my look of disappointment, invited us into the cafe, and made us the crêpes we were longing for - we even made our train. Who says the French aren't hospitable?!

At long last, crêpes have come to Portland, Maine. Not the greasy, thick version you find at Eggspectations - but the real deal.

When I first read about a Crêperie opening on Wharf street, I was concerned it might be modeled after other tourist traps I've seen in many cities. Fortunately, the 43 Wharf Street location doesn't fall in this category. The Merry Table serves soups, salads, sandwiches and paninis - but go for the crêpes.

On our recent visit, the House Cured Salmon, Boursin Cheese, Red Onion, Egg and Caper crêpe sounded heavenly. So did my ultimate choice, the "Poireaux" ($8) - a crêpe filled with braised leeks, wild mushrooms and goat cheese. The warm cheese melted just enough inside the crêpe to create a creamy sauce for the soft leeks and earthy morels.

My husband's "Poulet" crêpe ($7.50) was filled with grilled chicken, oven roasted tomatoes, caramelized onions and arugula. While the crêpe had plenty of flavor, it needed a sauce to add a touch of creaminess to the ingredients. My husband mentioned this to Jean-Claude Vassalle (the owner) who quickly agreed and said that going forward the crêpe would be served with a Béchamel sauce.

Since we were at the Merry Table for a quick dinner, we were pleasantly surprised to discover they had beer, wine and even a selection of hard alcohol. The beer list features the usual suspects, Guinness, Shipyard, Geary's, Sam Adams and other brews. The wine list is quite limited, with only Merlot, Pinot Grigio, and a Sauvignon Blanc by the glass, though each is modestly priced ($5-$6).

The dessert crêpes are not to be missed! My husband's warm Banana and Nutella crêpe was oozing with the chocolaty hazelnut spread. My Seasonal Berry crêpe featured fresh strawberries, blueberries, a sprinkle of sugar and a dollop of whipped cream.

Appreciate The Merry Table for what it is - a cheap eat, not fine dining. The walls are painted various shades of yellow, the floors are wide pine. The eclectic mix of Formica and wood tables, paper napkins and overhead lights make the Veuve Clicquot ($79) an unlikely splurge for most patrons. But if you want to experience a bit of France in the Old Port - or are simply seeking an alternative to the typical lunchtime sandwich spots, The Merry Table Crêperie fits the bill.

Hugo's - Portland, Maine - 2008

The much-anticipated re-opening of Hugo's revealed a restaurant transformed.

The ceilings and the back wall of the restaurant are now painted a rich chocolate brown. The remaining walls are a warm honey wheat. Beautiful leather banquettes, dark lacquered cork top tables, and interestingly patterned cork floors are all part of the new decor. Long silk burgundy drapes separate the softly back lit bar area from the dining room. The sound of jazz plays quietly in the background.

The menu underwent a make-over as well, though loyal patrons will recognize some familiar dishes. Rob Evans' tasting menu lives on - available for $70 per person. An additional $20 buys you the accompanying wine pairing, though the wine by the glass selections are quite limited, making wine pairings difficult for the waitstaff. New to the menu is the selection of "plates" which are divided on the menu into "Cold," "Vegetable," "Land," "Alternative" and "Ocean." All plates are similar in size so that diners can experience multiple dishes, ordering as few or as many as their appetite warrants.

While we waited for our first course, we enjoyed the familiar miniature potato flour and buttermilk biscuits. Served warm, they were accompanied by a dish of soft, hand churned butter. Our waitress suggested wines to pair with our first courses, an '05 A-Z Chardonnay from Oregon ($7) and the '06 Airen Sierra Virgen from Spain ($6). The Chardonnay was beautifully balanced, with hints of both green apple and butter. In contrast, the Airen was light and citrusy.

My husband started with the Atlantic Flounder in the Raw ($14). The sushi-quality fish was diced and served atop a basil-mint emulsion with baby radish sprouts and crispy capers. This dish was refreshing, with a hint of citrus that was complimented by the accompanying wine. No single flavor dominated; it was simply a harmonic medley that culminated in an extraordinary gastronomic delight. Hugo's Lobster Parfait made my "best of 2007"; this dish is a strong contender for the 2008 list.

I selected the plate of Sauteed Asparagus Spears ($13) primarily because of the incorporation of fresh fiddleheads into the dish. Unfortunately, both the asparagus and fiddleheads were overcooked. A free range pullet egg (egg from a chicken less than a year old) was prepared three ways. The dollop of hollandaise, scrambled egg and whole yolk added richness to the spring vegetable duet.

The Shiitake Mushroom Consomme ($14), an earthy clarified broth, contained several creamy parsnip filled raviolis and a dash of curry oil. The Beet and Horseradish Risotto was far more bold - almost sensory overload. Crisp, tart tempura fried pink grapefruit, and pungent Capri (goat cheese), topped the creamy, sweet beet risotto. Though I am not typically a fan of rosé wine, the pairing of '06 Chiaretto Garda Classico surprised me by perfectly complementing the risotto -- enhancing the citrus, and standing up to the powerful cheese.

The Scottish Salmon ($20) was beautiful and fresh under the crispy skin. The accompanying red flannel hash contained diced sweet potatoes, beets and onion. The tiny "potato croutons," a sophisticated and lightly fried version of a "tater tot" were my favorite part of the dish, particularly when dipped in the Tabasco-saffron emulsion. The Atlantic Wolfish ($19), a firm white fish, similar in taste to Monkfish, was butter basted. The sides of braised fennel, Maine crab and artichoke created a subtle medley of flavors that enhanced the rich fish.

The Westfield Farms Goat Cheesecake ($14) was a savory ending to our enjoyable evening. Served with a raspberry coulis, white balsamic sorbet and walnut crunch, this dessert rivaled those served at Bresca (which I deem the best desserts in the city). Like each of the dishes that preceded, the combination of flavors and textures - sweet, tart, pungent, creamy and crunchy - existed in perfect harmony.

After my last visit, I cautioned diners that the portions were small and many diners complained of leaving hungry after spending $200+ for dinner. With the new small plate menu, a couple will be hard pressed to spend $200 for dinner. We enjoyed seven plates, five glasses of wine, tea, and cappuccino for $160. The "small plates" allow diners the flexibility of ordering as many courses as they care to, without being limited to the chef's choices and portions in the Tasting Menu.

Service levels have improved, though they are still not where they should be for a restaurant of this caliber. Pacing between courses was too quick, leaving the waitress little time to discuss, taste and pour our wine pairings before the next course arrived. Once we were issued our check, our waitress seemed to forget about us; we had to flag her down after 10 or 15 minutes to pay. When we were ready to leave, there was no one to tell me where they had hung my coat (my husband eventually found it on his own).

Despite the few remaining service issues (which can be easily fixed), there are even more reasons to return. The Flounder, Risotto and Cheesecake, Chef Evans' ever changing eclectic cuisine, and the flat screen TV that will soon be displayed in the bar. As Nancy English revealed, and our waitress confirmed, the television will showcase images of the chefs' preparation of the dishes and pictures of the local farms that supply many of the ingredients.

Named one of the best new chefs in America by Food & Wine, and a two time James Beard nominee for Best Chef in the Northeast, Chef Rob Evans sets the bar high for masterful eclectic cuisine. He is not afraid to take chances, mixing and matching flavors and textures with scientific precision and culinary prowess. The improvements made in decor and cuisine with the reopening of Hugo's reaffirms its position as one of the best restaurants in Portland, Maine.

2008 Summer Portland Maine Dining Guide

Friends and family from out-of-town often contact me before heading to Portland to inquire where the best spots are to dine. My current recommendations for summer '08 include:

"Must try" Portland Maine Restaurants:

• Best New American Cuisine: Five-Fifty-Five

• Best Italian: Bresca

• Best French: Evangeline

• Best Fusion/Eclectic: Hugo’s

Other Fabulous Options:

• Best Greek: Emilitsa

• Best Local Sourced: Fore Street

• Best Sushi: Benkay

• Best Place for Seafood: Street & Company

• Best Wine List: Back Bay Grill

Best Budget Options:

• Best Budget Italian: Ribollita

• Best Pizza: Flatbread

• Best Bagels: Scratch Bakery (South Portland)

If you don’t see the cuisine category you're looking for, you can check out my other Portland, Maine reviews, or head over to Portland Food Map to find a comprehensive list of local dining options.

P.S. For the locals who enjoy my random picture challenges -- what is the dish pictured at the top of this post and where was it taken?

BBQ Chicken Pizza

I was a bit tired of our normal pizza topping rotations and had some leftover Beale Street BBQ sauce in the fridge, so I decided to make a BBQ Chicken Pizza. For those of you hauling your grills out of basements and garages after the long winter, and seeking a first grill recipe of-the-year, give this a try:

Marinate 1/2lb of boneless, skinless chicken breast in BBQ Sauce overnight (I put the chicken in a gallon sized Ziploc bag, dump in enough BBQ Sauce to cover the chicken, seal the bag and toss it in the fridge).

Dough (20 min to prep; 1 hour to rise):

1 packet of Active Dry Yeast (if you don't have Live Yeast)
1 1/2 cup of Warm Water
3 1/2 cups of flour
1 tsp salt
Olive Oil

Combine the yeast and water in a Cuisinart and let it stand until yeast is dissolved and foamy (for Dry Yeast Only), about 10 minutes. Add the salt. Add flour, one cup at a time until the dough pulls away from the sides of the Cuisinart bowl when mixing. Remove dough from the bowl and hand-knead for a minute more on a lightly floured surface. It should be smooth and elastic (if it is tough, start over as it will not rise). Shape dough into a ball. Fill a large bowl with hot water and let stand for 5 minutes to warm bowl. Pour out water, dry bowl completely and place the dough in the warm bowl. Drizzle with olive oil, turn to coat, cover with a towel and let rest for an hour, until doubled in bulk.

While dough is rising:

Pre-heat oven to 500 degrees

Insert a pizza stone, covered with white cornmeal, into the pre-heating oven

Soak a husked cob of corn in water for 20 minutes to soften, then wrap corn in tin foil, sealing both ends

Pre-heat grill to High

Cut a Yellow Onion into 8 wedges and place on grill rack, turning periodically until browned

Place a whole Green Pepper on grill rack, turning periodically until blistering

Place chicken breast on grill rack, turning periodically until cooked throughout

Place corn (in foil) on grill rack, turning every 5 minutes until all sides are cooked (approx. 20 min)

Finely dice a garlic clove

Coarsely chop grilled onion and pepper

Shred chicken breasts (I use two forks - one to hold the chicken steady, the other I flip over and scrape away at the chicken, loosening several "threads" at a time until the breast is completely shredded)

Unwrap foil and remove corn from cob with a knife

Cover a pizza paddle with white cornmeal (cover to the corners or the dough will stick).

After dough has risen:

Spread the pizza dough over the cornmeal, stretching it with your hands until it is the desired shape and thickness.

Spread BBQ Sauce over the dough

Top with garlic, corn kernels, pepper and onion

Drizzle a bit more BBQ Sauce over vegetables

Spread shredded Monterey Jack cheese over the vegetables

Top with cubes of fresh mozzarella

Slide the pizza off the paddle onto the heated pizza stone. Reduce oven temperature to 475 degrees and cook for 12-15 minutes

Slide pizza back onto the paddle, cut into pieces and enjoy

Bon Appetit!

A Lot of Dough for a Loaf of Bread

I'm really into Big Sky Honey Whole Wheat Bread at the moment. Only .5 grams of fat per slice and packed with flavor, it makes fabulous sandwich bread. I love it toasted, smeared with avocado and topped with a fried egg white and just a touch of salsa for breakfast.

It's $6.99 at Whole Foods Market.

It's $5.49 at Royal River Natural Foods in Yarmouth - and probably everywhere else it is sold.

I'll admit I routinely shop at Whole Foods. Not for my weekly "big" shopping expedition, but I do stop in roughly three times each week on my way home from work to pick up fish, veggies, and other perishables that I prefer to buy closer to when they will actually be consumed. I rarely look at the price of the items as I toss them into my basket. I'm more concerned with finding what I need quickly, and getting home to prepare dinner. But when I placed the Big Sky Bread on the counter at home next to the mostly-eaten loaf I had purchased earlier in the week at Royal River, the price stickers caught my attention.

A $1.50 difference between the two. For a loaf of bread.

I wonder what else suffers such a significant mark up at Whole Foods? I'm not talking pennies. I'll pay a few pennies, nickels, dimes and even a few quarters more for convenience and freshness. But $1.50 more for a loaf of bread? That's a bit much.

Don't you think?

Tu Casa - Portland, Maine

At Marya's suggestion, my husband and I recently tried Tu Casa, located at 70 Washington Avenue in Portland. Tu Casa features Salvadoran cuisine, which is similar to Mexican in that the staples include beans, rice, tortillas and tamales.

I had been correctly warned that there's not much in the way of atmosphere at Tu Casa. The dining room is simple, with a handful of tables and minimal wall decor. A television in the corner was broadcasting CNN in Spanish the day we dined. The entire restaurant smelled like grease from frying.

It wasn't clear when we walked in whether counter or table service prevailed. When we were handed menus (a new version debuted that very day), we decided to take a seat to peruse them and a few moments later someone came over to take our order. As the restaurant started to fill up half way through our meal, I did notice that most people ordered at the counter, then sat down to await their lunch.

We ordered Pupusas (an El Salvadoran classic) and Tamales as appetizers, and at the suggestion of our "waiter," Enchiladas and a Veggie Burrito as our entrees. We helped ourselves to a bottled water out of the cooler by the door as we waited 15 minutes or so for our lunch. The appetizers and entrees arrived all at once. The Pupusa ($1.75), a flat, white cornmeal cake stuffed with cheese and herbs was rather bland and very chewy. Even dousing it with hot sauce didn't give it enough flavor to make it worth the calories. While we ate only a few bites of the Pupusa, we devoured the accompanying crisp and tangy cabbage slaw (meant to top the pupusa).

The Tamale ($1.95) consisted of tender, moist chicken and diced yuca cooked in a thick cornmeal dough. The menu indicated that the tamale was wrapped and steamed in a banana leaf, though it was missing from the presentation. Banana leaves are characteristic for Salvadoran tamales, rather than the corn husks used in most Mexican versions. Though Tu Casa's version was far superior to Mesa Verde's, the flavors were bland and hot sauce did not compliment the thick corn meal exterior.

The Veggie Burrito ($5.95) was a giant flour tortilla that held a medley of finely diced broccoli, yellow squash, zucchini, lettuce, rice and refried beans. The ingredients tasted as though they had been simmering for hours; the consistency was almost that of a puree, a bit mushy for my taste. The broccoli added an interesting flavor to the burrito, but I still had to douse it in hot sauce to get the desired kick. Though a completely different style, I still prefer Granny's burritos which is more of a "Mexican wrap-style sandwich." I love the choice of tortilla shells (chili is my favorite), whole (not re-fried) beans, chunks of tomatoes, fresh lettuce, rice and cheese - and - as my readers know, Triple X hot sauce.

My husband's Crispy Enchiladas ($7.95) were the surprise hit of the day. Two crisp, homemade tortilla shells were thicker than the store bought version. The shells were topped with chicken that had simmered in mole sauce, fresh slices of avocado, crisp cabbage, chopped tomato, lettuce and cheese. The enchiladas were served with a generous portion of seasoned rice and refried beans that were definitely not from a can. My husband finished every morsel of this dish, with a little help from me.

We were looking forward to trying the fried plantains and flan, but the two people - one cooking and the other taking orders and serving - were busy trying to handle the small lunch-time crowd. We suspected it would be another 15 minutes to get the desserts, and this Type A personality didn't care to wait.

Tu Casa has many loyal patrons who rave about the price point and authenticity of the cuisine. If you're seeking Salvadoran fare, Tu Casa is likely your only choice in Portland. If you're simply seeking a "cheap eat" there are better choices within walking distance of Tu Casa that are in the same price range.

And the Winner Is....

Bintliff's received the top number of votes in the "Best Breakfast in Portland" poll. With 20% of the votes, it beat out The Front Room and Pepperclub/Good Egg Cafe which garnered 15% and 14% of the votes respectively.

Hot Suppa and Marcy's received 8% of the votes, while Bayou Kitchen, Becky's Diner and Porthole's tied with 5%.

Big Mama's and Mims had a few loyal fans, receiving 4% of the votes each; Ruski's, Brea Lu Cafe and O'Natural's trailed the pack.

"Hotel" restaurants don't appear to have many fans in Portland - neither Eve's (Portland Harbor Hotel) nor Twenty Milk Street (Portland Regency) received any votes. Neither did The Works Bakery or Star East Cafe.

A Bintliff's customer for over 15 years, I've seen the ebb and flow in quality as various owners have slipped in and out. It's never been better than when Roger Bintliff was at the helm - which he is not currently. Still, I have to agree with the masses who voted for Bintliff's. With its diverse and creative breakfast menu, Bintliff's is still the best spot in Portland for a casual breakfast.

Foodie Events in Portland, Maine

Anestes Fotiades, creator of the Portland Food Map, recently launched the The Portland Food Map Events Calendar. Events include Greater Portland wine tastings, restaurant events, book signings, and other food-related happenings.

Like the Food Map's graphical listing of area restaurants and local reviews, this is another great resource for foodies with free time. Check it out.

Subscribing via a Newsreader

A friend of mine subscribes to this blog's daily email update and clicks on the post link when the email appears. She is often surprised that people have already posted a comment when she arrives on the site.

How can others respond so quickly to the email? The answer is simple. They use a newsreader. Although twice as many viewers of this blog use a newsreader as opposed to subscribing to the daily email, it occurred to me that not everyone has used or understands the function of a newsreader.

A newsreader, whether its Google Reader, Bloglines, Mac’s RSS, Windows/Office RSS, or one of the dozens of other popular readers, queries websites you follow for new content. For the sites to which you subscribe, you receive a notice when new content is available. It's free and easy to setup.

If you want to subscribe to this blog’s RSS feed, or even to the daily email, you can do so by clicking on the Subscribe in a Reader or by Email link at the top of the page. This will redirect you to the FeedBurner website where you can select your newsreader client, or click the "View Feed XML" link if you use a desktop newsreader.

For those who made it to the end of this post, a Bonus Quiz: What dish (from a Portland, Maine restaurant) is pictured at the start of this post?

Mims Brasserie - Portland, Maine

I've dined at Mims Brasserie countless times since they've opened, mostly for breakfast and lunch. While I've never been "wowed," I usually return on hot summer days when I'm seeking an outside dining spot in the Old Port.

Located at 205 Commercial Street in Portland, Mims Brasserie re-opened on April 7th under the direction of Scott Olsen, its new Executive Chef. Just four days after their grand re-opening, we dined at Mims for lunch, anxious to see what changes Olsen would make. We sipped Blood Orange Lemonade ($3) as we perused the lunch menu, which looked surprisingly similar to how I had remembered it from previous visits.

Deviating from my old standby, the Nicoise Salad, I opted instead for the Peppercorn Crusted Salmon salad ($12), while my husband selected the Tomato Soup & 1/2 Grilled Chicken Club ($9.50). We also ordered the Warm Chevre with Crostini ($8).

The chevre was mixed with garlic and herbs, and presented at the table in a warm cast iron pan with slices of grilled bread. The charred, sweet onion set atop the warm cheese added a bit of interest to the simple dish. Slightly dry slices of chicken, tomato, bacon and lettuce piled between thick slices of English toasting bread comprised my husband's Chicken Club. The tomato soup was a rather plain puree of tomatoes and cream. My entree, a mix of organic lettuces topped with slab of fresh salmon and chopped tomato, had far too much dressing - all I could taste was vinegar.

The chocolate cake ($9) looked amazing, but had a dry, crumbly exterior. The thick, creamy vanilla gelato, served atop the cake, was sensational and even better with the drizzle of caramel on top.

We weren't overly impressed with our lunch experience at Mims and decided to give the new Chef another chance. We dined a week later for dinner thinking that the Chef might showcase his talents to the evening crowd.

Similar to the experience I always had at Natasha's (which shared the same owner as Mims before Natasha's closed) everything on the menu sounded so much better than it tasted. The best dish of the evening was the Crab Crêpe. The gently sauteed spinach and fresh crab smothered in a tarragon cream sauce created a wonderful medley of flavors.

The soups were once again lackluster. I love Potato Leek, but Mims version lacked any hint of potato or leek flavors. My husband's French Onion soup was slightly better. Beef based, it held plenty of sauteed onions. More than half the bowl was filled by a thick slice of bread topped with wonderfully salty Gruyere and crispy onions.

I had high hopes for my appetizer, House Cured Salmon with Frisee and Duck Egg. The salmon was excellent and accompanied by sides of crème fraîche, chives and diced tomatoes. The frisee was topped with a house-made Parmesan crisp - but no duck egg. The waitress tried to convince me it was mixed in with the crème fraîche. I assured her it was not. She then said it was the style in which the chives were prepared, "duck egg" style? Really? She then went and checked with the chef who verified that he had forgotten the duck egg and would send one out. I ate as slowly as I could, but unfortunately finished long before the egg arrived. Instead of setting it upon some additional frissee so that I could enjoy it warm and oozing over the tart greens, he sent it out by itself in a shallow white bowl. And it was a regular egg. Not a duck egg. They deducted this dish from our tab.

I sent back my glass of Chateau La Roque "Cupa Numismae" Pic Saint Loup because it smelled and tasted like vinegar - though the bartender assured me (via the waitress) that was how it was supposed to taste. When I looked to see where the wines are stored, I noticed the bottles are hung in racks on either side of the hot kitchen, so it's not surprising that the one I selected had gone bad. I fared better with a glass from Chateauneuf du Pape.

The Italian bread served with dinner was bland and completely void of flavor. Overcooked, it was dry, crumbly and fell apart when we tried to smear it with butter or dip it in olive oil. It made me long for the scrumptious bread (and soups for that matter) that were once served in this very same location - back when it was Port Bakehouse.

My entree, a less-than-fresh halibut, was served over a Flageolet Bean and sherry cream sauce mixture. My husband's Sea Bass had also seen better days, but was interestingly prepared with a subtle carrot ginger sauce and side of potato lyonnaise.

Billed as a Brasserie, Mims fulfils the definition by serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. The price points are where they depart from the concept. Dinner before tip, was $111, not at all worth the price tag for this less-than-stellar dining experience.

The French cuisine, contemporary furniture. and golden oldies playing in the dining room seem like an odd mix in this upscale cafe. With outside seating on two levels and views of Casco Bay, the location is hard to beat when looking to dine on a hot summer day.

Mims shines at breakfast, serves an adequate lunch, and is a disappointment for dinner. If you are seeking well executed French fare, head for Evangeline instead, where you'll dine for less and experience cuisine that is far more creative and refined. If you simply seek an after work spot to share cocktails and a great view, then Mims fills the niche.

What's For Breakfast?

The entertaining reviews on the Breakfast Club Blog made me think about who slings the best hash in the AM. I've launched a poll (on the left) in hopes of identifying the best breakfast in Portland, Maine.

The criteria used in putting together the list of contenders (mostly comprised of restaurants paired down from the brunch list from Portland Food Map) is as follows:

• Must serve weekday breakfast, not just brunch.

• Establishments that serve only cold/toasted food, such as muffins, were excluded.

• Two hotel restaurants were included because their respective websites included a breakfast menu.

• National chains such as Denny’s and McDonald’s were excluded

Cast your vote for Portland's best breakfast spot and post a comment if I missed anyone. I'll share my favorite spot after the poll closes.

Granny's Burritos - Portland, Maine

The sign for Granny 's was being placed in the window as we entered the former home of Uncle Billy's Resto-Bar. It was day #2 for the Uncle Billy's/Granny's Burritos collaboration at 653 Congress St.

The black painted tin ceiling, orange sponge painted walls and well worn red cushions remain from Uncle Billy's Resto-Bar. According to the waiter, the taxidermy wall decor that formerly graced the walls of Uncle Billy's was removed to make the restaurant more "vegan friendly."

For loyal Granny's fans, the atmosphere is a step up from the 90's grunge decor of the former Fore Street location. Waitstaff have replaced the self-service order system, unless you're taking food to-go. A much-too-loud eclectic mixture of rock boomed from the speakers as the lone waiter literally ran food from the kitchen to the tables in an effort to quickly serve both sit down and to-go customers at the bar.

We were tempted by the Poutine - a left over from the Uncle Billy's days, but opted to share a plate of Veggie Nachos instead. Perfectly salted white corn chips were topped with thin slices of fresh jalapeno pepper, finely diced onions and peppers, chunks of tomatoes and melted white cheddar cheese. Unfortunately, the chips were too large to effectively dunk in the small plastic containers of salsa and guacamole (served upon request).

The salsa, which has an abundance of vinegar, reminded me of Margaritas' version. The ingredients were pureed, and while I prefer chunky salsa, it had an excellent flavor with just the right amount of kick. The guacamole was bland - literally a puree of avocado with a few chunks of tomato. While non-offensive, it could benefit from the addition of cilantro, lime and salt.

We ordered our old Granny's favorites - Burritos. Veggie for me and Jerk Chicken for my husband. The familiar choices of tortilla shells (six flavors) and beans (pinto, black bean or a combination of the two) are still offered. Standard ingredients - cheese, rice, beans, salsa, lettuce, tomatoes and sour cream - filled the tortilla shells. When I asked my husband how the Jerk chicken was in his burrito, he suddenly realized it was absent of any chicken at all - a minor snafu that is completely understandable for opening week.

My favorite part of a Granny's Burrito is how it serves as an effective mechanism for the delivery of the XXX Hot Sauce - kicked up with plenty of vinegar and heat. I douse the burrito with the sauce before each and every bite. My taste buds are zinging for hours after a meal at Granny's.

Granny's is back on my short list of cheap-eats for lunch. Like other new restaurants, they have a few minor kinks to work out. Granny's new location is worth the walk from the Old Port if you're craving the best Burritos in Greater Portland.

Evangeline - Portland, Maine

Evangeline, located at 190 State Street, opened its doors to the public last evening. The transformation of the space formerly occupied by Uffa is dramatic. A new bar creates a graceful transition between the elevated open kitchen in the rear of the restaurant and the formal seating at the front of the house. Oversized white linen-clad tables and vibrant red banquettes add to the transformation.

Opening night was packed at this French restaurant that seats 30, with eight additional seats at the bar. The music and decor give the restaurant a Parisian ambiance. The energy and laughter from the happy crowd created a sophisticated party mood.

The cork bound wine list was extensive and affordable. Bottles ranged in price from $20-$100, with carafes available for about half the cost of the full bottle. Five reds, five whites and a sparkling wine were available by the glass.

My husband ordered a carafe of 2003 Château de Cruzeau
Bordeaux, our new favorite White Bordeaux. This Savignon Blanc and Semillon blend was well structured, with a buttery flavor and undertones of citrus. It was so much to our liking, that we quickly requested a full bottle after the first sip.

Memories of Bandol came flooding back when the first "treat" from the kitchen was presented -- a salmon tartar with lemon oil. The zesty lemon hit the taste buds first, cleansing the palate beautifully for the finely diced, fresh salmon that followed. Cubes of focaccia were served with a creamy and flavorful butter which paired wonderfully with the salty bread.

The next "treat" was a white anchovy, set atop a roasted red pepper, and topped with an olive and chive tapenade. My taste buds were singing as the sweet, salty and tart ingredients combined into a harmonious medley of flavors.

My husband's Oyster & Leek Bisque ($9) appetizer, defied the traditional pureed version by keeping the mollusks intact. The salty American caviar nicely contrasted the buttery bisque as the finely diced leek melted in his mouth.

The Mushroom Veloute ($8) was earthy and delicious. The mushroom soup held a mixture of minced mushrooms, shallots and herbs which nicely contrasted the velvety broth. A silky '05 Steele Pinot Noir paired perfectly with this dish. The fruit forward wine had a hint of spice and almond flavors that set off the almond cream in the soup.

The standout dish of the evening was the Orange Duck ($23). A thin layer of fat was left on the seared duck breast. The exterior was crisp, while the tender meat was succulent and moist. Deep ruby colored cara cara oranges were caramelized to perfection and paired with a red endive to create a sweet and savory side. The citrus was subtle in the adorning sauce, sweetened by the caramelization of the winter fruit. This dish was impeccably executed.

I lost my husband's attention as he focused on the fresh cod ($19) which was the basis for a dual preparation. On one side of the plate a gently browned cod filet rested atop of a bed of Aubergine (eggplant) caviar. The other half of the plate contained a pan-fried brandade (a cod and cream mash) that contrasted nicely with the salty olive and sweet pepper topping.

For dessert we shared a Warm Financier ($7), an almond Madeleine-style cake, topped with buttermilk ice cream and a braised cognac-soaked pineapple. This sweet dessert was a perfect ending to the meal.

After witnessing many less graceful grand openings, I was impressed at the staff orchestration. Although you could sense their underlying nervousness at the beginning of the evening, they became increasingly more comfortable with their roles as the night progressed.

For those who enjoyed dining at Erik's former restaurant, Bandol, you will be pleased to once again enjoy his classic French techniques. While he has resurrected several of Bandol's specialty dishes, including the adventurous "Crispy Roasted Calf Brain," the menu is diverse and ripe with numerous innovative creations.

Chef Erik Desjarlais has combined the elegance of distinctively prepared cuisine, with a lively urban setting. An instant classic, Evangeline is a "must try" restaurant for foodies living in, or visiting Portland. A welcome addition to the Longfellow Square neighborhood, Evangeline is destined to become one of the top restaurants in the City.

Wine Funds Healthcare

Mainers, stock-up on your alcohol now, before the new taxes on beer and wine, announced on tax day, kick in. Alcohol has joined other sin taxes used to fund Universal Healthcare.

In case you feel like sending your state representatives congratulations on increasing taxes while in a weak economy, you can locate them at the State Website.

Cheers!

Arrows - Ogunquit, Maine

It has been 14 years since we last ate at Arrows. While our experience on that visit was stellar, I have not been compelled to return due to mixed reviews on Chowhound. But when I heard that Arrows was re-opening for the spring, I decided it was time to give them another try.

Ranked #14 on Gourmet Magazine's List of America's Top 50 Restaurants, Arrows is located just over the Ogunquit line, at 41 Berwick Road in Cape Neddick (although most consider the restaurant to be in Ogunquit). Lest you think my husband and I are unique in our obsession with restaurants from Gourmet's List of Top 50 Restaurants, we are not alone. According to our waiter, shortly after Gourmet's latest list was published, a couple whose mission was to try the top 25 restaurants in 25 days, flew into the Sanford airport (closest airport to Arrows) on a leer jet, took a limo to Arrows, dined into the wee hours of the morning, then hopped back on the plane for the next destination. We only drove an hour on the Turnpike from Portland.

As we entered Arrows' parking lot, we could see a member of the staff cooking on an outdoor grill. She greeted us at the top of the stairs from the parking lot with a platter of Grilled Prosciutto Wrapped Asparagus, the Amuse Bouche of the evening. Upon entering the farmhouse restaurant, we were quickly seated at one of the most requested tables - the one in the rear far corner of the restaurant. Request this table and you won't be bothered with other diners or waitstaff walking by your table during your meal.

A water steward arrived at our table carrying a basket of four different bottles of water - two still and two sparkling. Next came the butter steward, offering us traditional butter, or a special butter trio which we agreed to try. It is worth the experience to try the butters side-by-side and appreciate the subtle nuances that set them apart. The intensely creamy Cadi butter from Spain was my husband's favorite, while I preferred the Pamplie with Fleur de Sel. The Isigny Ste Mere butter from Normandy, with 82% fat content, was plain, and our least favorite when compared to the other two.

Surprisingly, Arrows does not offer wine pairings, though our waiter offered to make suggestions that would be appropriate with each course. "Tastes," before pouring a full glass are not the norm at Arrows, but our waiter was happy to accommodate our request.

A crisp and refreshing '05 Sincerely Sauvignon Blanc by Neil Ellis (South Africa) was paired with my husband's appetizer of Wood Roasted Winter Point Oysters. Removed from their shell, the oysters were mixed with a smoked prosciutto crème fraîche, then set upon tiny strands of angel hair pasta in the oyster shell. Topped with crispy slivers of prosciutto, the contrasting tastes and textures in this dish were extraordinary. The pasta served as a creative delivery mechanism to allow the cooked oysters to easily slide from the shell.

The "Ying and Yang" is a new dish on Arrows' menu this year, inspired from Chef/Owners Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier's recent trip to Shanghai. A progression of flavor and textures, the dish features a rather bland, chilled poached chicken breast with Xiao Xing wine granita. Tender from soaking in the rice wine, it was the texture of tofu. Next on the culinary adventure was the tempura fried chicken wing (which looked like a leg, but was in fact a wing) that held a combination of shiitake mushrooms, bamboo and scallion in a delicate batter. The heat was turned up a bit with the last of the trio, a tiny wing covered in Asian spices and served with a sweet chili sauce. While I did not care for the distinct mineral and peach flavors of the Trimbach Pinot Gris that was paired with this dish, it did effectively cut through the spice of the chili sauce.

One of the most interesting dishes of the evening was the Parsnip "Crème Brûlée" with toasted five seed bread and "first of the season greens" (grown on site in Arrows' greenhouse). The greens, topped with cider vinegar and pumpkin seed oil, were uninteresting by themselves. The harmony unfolded when the crisp bread was spread with the torched parsnip purée, topped with the delicate greens, and eaten in one bite.

"The Whole Quack" was the dish that Chefs Mark and Clark chose to cook at the 2008 Pebble Beach Food & Wine Epicurean event. With the assistance of the on-premise duck press, this dish uses most every part of the duck to showcase the bird's expanse of flavors and textures.

Duck consommé was presented at the table in a french press, then poured into a bowl lined with house cured bacon and topped with a poached duck egg. The confit duck leg was spectacular, served with English peas and morel mushrooms. The slices of chilled pine-smoked duck breast with pea sprouts and pickled baby onions (infused with beet juice), were overpowered by the accompanying goat cheese (made from the milk of Arrows' very own goat). The meat was dramatically improved when dipped in the rich consommé. The smooth, fruit forward Red Dao from Portugal was enjoyable, though a more full bodied Pinot Noir would have paired better with the duck.

The buttery St. Aubin White Burgundy (produced by Domaine Bernard Morey) was the perfect accompaniment to my husband's anything-but-ordinary Lobster feast. Butter poached Maine lobster claws and knuckles were served atop an anise-olive oil emulsion and accompanied by sprigs of fennel. The roasted lobster tail was topped with a rich duck stock; a fava bean mash was topped with crispy sweetbreads.

Intrigued with the Asian Yuzu curd with pistachio crumble, we opted instead to feed our chocolate craving with the Chocolate Fondue. Warm chocolate was served in a porcelain fondue pot, that was heated in a copper base, and accompanied by homemade marshmallows, mandarin orange sections, tiny madelines and cubes of shortbread for dunking. While this dessert had plenty of panache, it lacked culinary sophistication. We were disappointed that they did not have any Moscato D'Asti to pair with dessert; instead I enjoyed a champagne sauterne, while my husband sipped loose leaf Dragon Pearl tea.

Similar in atmosphere to the White Barn Inn, Arrows is housed in a post and beam farmhouse set in the woods. Just two towns to the North, the view at the White Barn is a bit more staged, with dramatic plate glass windows as the focal point in both dining rooms, behind which seasonal flora and fauna are displayed. The dining room windows at Arrows reveal an abundance of natural beauty. Gardens are filled with herbs, greens and flowers, many of which are used in the nightly food preparation.

The service at Arrows is more laid back than at the White Barn Inn, though no less attentive. The army of waitstaff at the White Barn earn their Mobile 5 Star rating, but can make guests feel a bit uncomfortable as they hover nearby. Arrows comes across as less stuffy; there seems to be less judgment and more of a desire to make your Arrows experience how you want it to be - even if that means eating chicken off the bone with your fingers.

More eclectic in preparation and presentation than the White Barn, Arrows' cuisine focuses more on the savory side of the food spectrum. The flavors influencing each dish are subtle, and require more concentration to appreciate. Both restaurants share the same French culinary inspired heritage and passion for excellence.

Dinner and drinks were $291 before tip, a three hour dining experience well worth the price tag. For a more affordable Arrows experience, three course dinners for $39.95 are offered each Friday in the spring and fall. Wine Maker Dinners, offered periodically throughout the year, are also a value: hors d'oeuvres, wine and a five course dinner is $89pp.

Like Nancy English, I've enjoyed individual dishes at other Maine restaurants, such as Five Fifty- Five (Honey Glazed Cavendish Quail with Chanterelle Brioche Stuffing) and Hugos (Lobster & New Potato Parfait) that outshine any one dish I had at Arrows. But when you factor in service, atmosphere and overall cuisine, Clark and Mark Gaier - again nominated by the James Beard Foundation as Best Chefs of the Northeast (March, 2008) - earn my respect.

Arrows deserves to be in Gourmet's List of Top 50 Restaurants, though not in the #14 spot. Based on other Top restaurants at which I've dined, I would put them in the 30s, with restaurants such as No. 9 Park ahead of them in the rankings.

I consider Arrows to be a "destination restaurant," worth the drive from either Portland or Boston. For serious foodies, it is a restaurant worth traveling for whether you live in, or are visiting New England.

Michy's - Miami

With only one night in South Beach, the decision on where to dine was easy - Michy's - number 32 on Gourmet Magazine's Top 50 Restaurants List.

Located in a neighborhood described as "up and coming," Michy's is in a non-descript strip mall at 6927 Biscayne Blvd. Since we had rented a convertible, we decided to drive the 20 minutes from the Ritz-Carlton in South Beach to the restaurant. The valet seemed a bit concerned about our decision to drive, as opposed to taking a cab. He warned us several times to drive straight to the restaurant, and stay on the main roads. Apparently the neighborhoods surrounding Michy's are a bit "questionable."

The entrance is through the back, where valet parking is available. Inside, the restaurant is buzzing with energy - you'll find a blue painted ceiling, comfy suede orange banquets, white linen table cloths and seashell chandeliers. There is plenty of bar and patio seating, in addition to the seating for 50+ in the main dining room.

On the Thursday night we dined, the place was packed with a mostly locals crowd. The tables are very close together, making it difficult to carry on a conversation without others hearing every word. For this reason, I would not recommend it for a romantic dinner, but it is a compelling destination for foodies living in, or visiting Miami.

I started with a glass of Edelzwicker, a combination of Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris from Alsace, while my husband opted for a Mango Mojito. Most everything on the menu can be ordered in half or full portions; we elected to dine "tapas style" and try several half portions. The waiter asked how we wanted our select