Bresca - Portland, Maine (First Review)

Note: A more recent Bresca Review is available.

Dinner was at Bresca last night, a tiny little restaurant in downtown Portland that only seats 20. I love going to little places where literally, everyone knows your name. We discovered this place earlier this spring; they hadn't been open that long and weren't that busy. I think we were memorable because on our first visit we had to try some of everything - it all sounded so good. Our little table was overflowing with dishes and we at them all...I think the waitress was shocked! Anyway, we've been going back ever since.

I love, and have an appreciation for, California wine. It helps that I go to Napa and Sonoma almost every year and have been to so many of the vineyards. Plus, our first visit to wine country was between Christmas and New Year's - nobody goes to wine country then so we had the tasting rooms to ourselves and the vintners had an abundance of time to teach us wine appreciation.

Anyway, I know next to nothing about Italian wine - and that's pretty much all Bresca has on the menu. So on my first visit I described what type of wine I like and the waitress remembers each time I go back! But instead of serving me the same wine each time, she acknowledges what I have liked in the past and suggests something new. My husband doesn't have the same luck. He can never remember what he liked last time, nor can the waitress, and so he has to taste a whole bunch until he settles on one that he likes. The "tastes" are rather generous so maybe he has something good going there!

Last night I enjoyed the Terri Di Dora, Fiano Di Avellino 2005 from Campania - available by the bottle, glass or 1/2 glass. A complex and full bodied white, that was, at the same time, very refreshing. I have also enjoyed, on previous visits, the Terradora Dipaolo Greco Di Tufo 2005 from Campania, similar in style and complexity.

After enjoying an amazing Belgian Beer (I don't recall the particular type but it was tremendously flavorful and refreshing - a triple ale as I recall), he settled on the Renato Ratti Nebbiolo D'Alba Ochetti, 2005 from Piedmont. Smooth and lush, he preferred it over the more "berry" tasting Tedeschi Capitel Dei Nicalo Valpolicella 2004 from Piedmont...which was right up my alley.

We started with a "taste" of local Honeycomb and Pecorino Romano - and wonderful little plate with just ever-so-slightly warmed Romano cheese accompanied by soft honeycomb with warm honey drizzled over the top...pile the cheese and honeycomb on the soft bread that was placed on our table and you have an amazing appetizer.

We also ordered the "frico" - a sophisticated version of a "cheez-it" - Parmesan cheese crisps. They were good, but not overly satisfying. I think I would skip them on the next visit.

What I would NEVER skip - and have had on every visit to Bresca - is the Charred Cherry Tomato Bruschetta. I don't know where they get their tomatoes, but they are larger than most cherry tomatoes, charred to perfection so the skin bursts open and the sweet flavor escapes. They are placed on grilled bread, topped with a bit of crushed basil and drizzled with olive oil. A high quality, sweet Balsamic Vinegar graces the plate and adds a perfect offset to the sweet tomatoes. A signature dish - in my opinion - of the restaurant and one not to be missed by any patron.

I also couldn't resist the appetizer special of wild salmon over melon. Presented sushi style, the salmon was draped over bite-sized pieces of cantaloupe. The salmon was very fresh - it melted in my mouth. Unfortunately the melon overpowered the taste of the delicate salmon.

For our entrees, my husband requested the Bucatini with Peekytoe Crab. Unfortunately, he learned that they had sold out of the crab. At my suggestion, he requested that the special fish of the evening, halibut, be substituted. The chef agreed to the request and it sounded so good I ordered the same thing.

But if she hadn't agreed, I was very tempted by the Honey Glazed Duck Brest with roman trading spices, summer peaches, frissee and soft mascarpone polenta. It just sounded so intriguing and looked even better when the two people next to us received theirs. Next time....

You can't go wrong with the pasta at Bresca. I keep saying I would go back and just have Bruschetta and Pasta because they are the best of the best in my opinion. Yet I never can stick to just those two items!

The Bucatini arrived in deep bowls, tossed with chive, lemon and olive oil, topped with a succulent piece of perfectly flash sauteed halibut. I requested Parmesan to be shaved on top and that completed a perfect entree. My only regret is ordering a full portion instead of half. That is also one of the things I like best about this restaurant. If you get carried away ordering too many appetizers (as we obviously do!), you can order half portions of many of the entrees...most half entrees are only $9.

I do have to mention another amazing pasta dish - the Strozzapreti alla Arrabbiata with tomato sauce, saracene olives, basil, chile and fresh ricotta - which I have had more times than I care to mention. Simple, flavorful and perfect in every way!

My favorite dessert from previous visits is the "Think Summer" - warm brown butter, strawberry rhubarb compote and creme fraiche gelato. The combination is tart and sweet - the dish is served slightly warm and the cool contrast of the gelato is delightful.

But last night, my husband ventured in uncharted territory and ordered the "Nectarine". He dislikes peaches so I was really trying to steer him away from this dish. Fortunately he did not listen to me. A warm and soft Nectarine was served with rice pudding, toasted walnut shortbread, tarragon and olive oil gelato. Olive oil gelato! To die for!!!! I've seen olive oil powder popping up on dishes at high end restaurants all spring and summer and thought that was the best accompaniment ever - but olive oil gelato has the powder beat by a long shot.

So that is Bresca. Call ahead for reservations. Where you once could drop in and secure a table, this time I called a week ahead and could only get a table at 5:30 or 8....The word on Bresca is getting out... deservedly so.