Cyrus - Healdsburg

Last fall, while travelling to California for our annual wine excursion was when I first read about Cyrus. Cyrus had, unbeknownst to me, opened in Healdsburg and snuck its way right onto the list of top 20 restaurants in the country. We were headed straight for Healdsburg, so immediately upon landing I called Cyrus hoping to secure a reservation during our stay.

Of course they were booked. For months. I tried repeatedly, hoping for a cancellation. My husband, trying in his own way to console me, assured me that now we had a reason to come back. I latched onto that and booked another trip. This time the dinner reservation was made before the air or hotel to be sure we could eat at Cyrus. And La Toque. And Chez Panisse.

Was it worth the wait? Yes. Would I go again? Probably not for a long time. Does it really rival The French Laundry? Not in my opinion. Am I glad I went? You bet. The hype around this restaurant is strong and at least now I can participate in the buzz.

Located just off Healdsburg Plaza in the Le Mars Hotel, it is far less descript than Dry Creek Kitchen (the “other” restaurant). We were greeted and immediately shown to our table which was tucked into a corner and offered a view of the entire dining room with peaks into the kitchen each time they opened the door.

The patrons were a mix of foodies from afar and locals. At the table next to us was a couple from Denver celebrating a birthday. The table behind us was occupied by a local winemaker and his staff who were doing the tough job of testing wine and food pairings for an upcoming release party they were having (hey, someone has to do the dirty work…I told the waitress that if they needed help I was up to the task).

The famous champagne and caviar cart was rolled to our table while the five different caviars were described. We elected to share a glass of the Roederer Champagne paired with the California Select Caviar. Normally we prefer Beluga (which they didn't have) imported by Brown Trading Company. But just like with the wine, we figured we would try the local goods.

The caviar was scooped into a beautiful glass dish, carefully weighed and then presented to us along with two pearl spoons. Accompanying the caviar were petite bowls of finely chopped egg, scallion and crème fraîche. Rather than blini or toast points, warm potato “puffs” stuffed with crème fraîche were served, tucked gently into a napkin to retain the heat and intended to hold the caviar and accoutrements. While delicious, I thought the fried taste of the potato overpowered the caviar and prefer blini for that reason.

I should pause here to mention that the "pace" at Cyrus is perfect. There are a lot of choices to make at this restaurant. Caviar, champagne, how many courses, what dishes in what order, cheese carts, dessert carts. One could easily be overwhelmed. But they ease you into it. First, select the champagne and caviar. Sit back, relax and enjoy. When you are finished - and only when you are finished - are you presented with the menu for the evening. Pacing between the courses was well timed; just enough space so that you are happy when the next course arrives, but not so hungry that you need to fill up on bread to ward off pangs of hunger.

Next we were presented with the menus and instructed to order 3, 4, 5 or 7 courses. Anything off the menu in any combination and in any order. Alternatively, the chef will prepare a seven course tasting of his choice for the entire table. We mentioned that we did not eat meat or pork; the waitress said there was a course for both in the chef’s tasting menu. I found it odd that they did not offer to do a 5 course chef tasting menu or to substitute other items for the meat.

I selected the Roasted Squash and Stuffed Blossom with Spiced Pepper Coulis, Thai Marinated Lobster with Avocado, Melon and Hearts of Palm and the Truffled Red Wine Risotto with Parmesan Broth. The latter two are signature dishes for the restaurant. My husband selected the Chilled Coconut Soup with Banana Blossoms, Ahi Tuna and Kaffir Lime followed by the Taguarini (similar to spaghetti) with Tronchon, Olives and Padron Peppers. His main course was the Black Cod with Zucchini, Green Papaya and Ginger Basil Broth.

The chef sent out a "treat" of blanched haricot verts with watermelon, feta and white anchovy – all topped with a watermelon reduction. Four haricots verts, fried tempura style in a light batter also adorned the dish.

As a first course, we decided to share the Tasting of Tomatoes, one of the standout courses of the evening. Paired with a Savignon Blanc, the rectangular platter was adorned with a single slice of fried green tomato with a spicy remoulade sauce, a succulent red tomato half topped with balsamic and croutons, and a “pot du crème” consisting of a basil pesto on top of tomato gelatin. Who knew tomatoes could be prepared so creatively. This dish was extraordinary.

The Roasted Squash tasted like autumn and was flavorful with the pepper coulis as an accompaniment. The squash blossom was stuffed with goat cheese and fried in batter that was a bit too heavy for the delicate blossom. All you could taste was the batter.

The Thai Marinated Lobster is served cold and mixed with Avocado, Melon and Hearts of Palm. This dish tasted like it had been prepared earlier in the evening and stored in the refrigerator; it was overly-chilled which, in my opinion, masks the flavor of lobster. The Thai sauce and melon were overpowering. Too much going on on with this dish.

Not true with the Truffled Red Wine Risotto with Parmesan Broth. Talk about eyes rolling back in the head. This dish did it to me. The risotto was cooked with a duck and red wine reduction, mixed with a Parmesan broth and topped with white truffle oil. Rich without being heavy and intensely flavorful. My mouth is watering as I am writing this - it was amazing.

My husband wasn't as impressed with his main dish of Black Cod with Zucchini, Green Papaya and Ginger Basil Broth. He is a big broth fan which is why he ordered this dish. Unfortunately, he took one bite of the fish which was covered in a plum sauce (and not disclosed on the menu)- and decided he did not care for the concoction. Unfortunately our server did not notice that he was not eating his dish until I had finished my risotto so he was not able to swap it for another entree.

He fared a bit better with his Chilled Coconut Soup with Ahi Tuna. I thought this would be sweet and thus did not order it, but it tasted more like the coconut milk used to cook Thai food (as opposed to the sweetened pina coloda version I was imagining). Infused with kaffir lime and topped with banana blossoms, this was an interesting and pleasing appetizer.

His Taguarini (similar to spaghetti) with Tronchona (a spanish cheese made with goat, sheep and cow milk), olives and padron (spanish) peppers was an interesting, but not memorable combination.

We shared the cheese course and skipped dessert because we saw that there was yet another cart filled with treats ranging from coconut lollipops to shortbread to fine chocolates that is wheeled over to each table at the conclusion of the meal. Diners are asked to select as many treats as they like. And were were sent home with a little gold and white box filled with a brownie that we enjoyed on the plane ride home. Made with extremely dark and very good quality chocolate, it was a bit dry (but sure beat the plane food!).

A couple of items to note. We each selected the wine pairings with our courses. A big pet peeve of mine is when they do not present the wine a few minutes before the food and allow you to taste it before they pour a full glass. The glass they brought with my risotto was weak and I did not care for it alone or with the food. I mentioned this to the waitress; she returned when I was half way through my dish and suggested the wine my husband had with his previous course. He had some left so I just had that with the rest of my dish. Yet I was charged for this glass of wine anyway.

Similarly, when my husband did not care for his entree, and the waitress came back too late to replace it, he said he would just share a cheese course with me. She charged him for his entree - and charged us for a two person cheese course(!). You'd think that when you are in a high-end restaurant and shelling out $450 for dinner that they would take care of these details.

Final thoughts: At the same price point as La Toque (in Rutherford), Cyrus takes the cake. More interesting decor, superior service; more intimate dining and greater care taken to create interesting and innovative dishes. When measured against The French Laundry there is no comparison (yet). Thomas Keller should stay on his toes, but for now the dining experience he creates is still head and shoulders above that of Chef Douglas Keane.