Back Bay Grill - Portland, Maine (First Review)

Note: A more recent Back Bay Grill Review is available.

As the weather turns colder and the holidays approach, my dining choices reflect a tendency towards classic fine-dining establishments such as The Back Bay Grill. My husband and I have been a half-dozen times over the years and always enjoy the experience.

The Back Bay Grill has an impressive selection of wines. On our most recent visit, we were thrilled to find the Award Winning 2004 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir on the menu, difficult to find since it was featured as one of the best California Pinot Noirs in Wine Spectator.

The restaurant has an equally impressive front-of-the-house manager that we mistook for the Sommelier. Adrian's knowledge of wines and his ability to describe them in such perfect detail, is somewhat unique in the Portland restaurant scene, where we typically hope for a waitperson who knows a little something about wines and pairings. So confident in his knowledge of wines - and because he is so customer oriented, he offers to purchase your opened bottle if you don't like his recommendation. He hasn't had to do it yet.

The wine selection was not the only stand out the evening we dined; the service is impeccable. Our waitress was knowledgeable about the food, and could describe each dish in detail. I asked if the sausage garnishment could be omitted from the soup (it could), and she went a step further to inquire if I was a vegetarian because often times the soup base is made with chicken broth. Wine and sparkling water was routinely refilled, as was the bread and butter. Timing between courses was perfect, just long enough to digest the previous course and enjoy some wine, but not long enough to wonder when the next dish was coming.

My husband started with the House Cured Gravlox (salmon) & Maine lobster, served with red onion sour cream and caraway crackers. The crackers paired well with the salmon and sour cream, but the caraway seeds overpowered the lobster. The lobster (a single, but large claw) was overly cold so that even when tasted by itself, its flavor could not be appreciated. This dish lacked creativity - there just wasn't any "wow" factor, particularly when compared to the Lobster Parfait served just up the street at Hugo's.

The Butternut squash soup was silky smooth, having been passed through a chinois. I was hoping for an intense taste of autumn in the soup that did not prevail; it tasted more of chicken broth than squash; the dollop of sour cream did not enhance the soup, rather it simply made it cold.

The next course was their version of Caesar, Hearts of Romaine with garlic dressing, shaved Parmesan and miniature croutons. The salad lacked the bold flavors of lemon, garlic and anchovy that I associate with Caesar salad. Even the long, thin ribbons of Parmesan cheese lacked the typical salty, nutty flavor. Perhaps I am overly critical of Caesar salad, accustomed to Chef Corey's grilled version at Five Fifty-Five; I have yet to find a more creative execution.

At most restaurants I find the most creativity in the appetizers and am often disappointed with the entree. Chefs seem to have fun with the little bites and even dessert, and become more conservative and traditional with the main course. Not so at The Back Bay Grill.

The Scottish Salmon must have been two inches thick! Translucent and warm in the center, it was of the highest quality, cooked to a medium rare perfection and served with wild rice, roasted root vegetables and an exquisitely light lemon thyme butter sauce. My only complaint was that there was not enough sauce - so I asked for extra, which they quickly delivered. None of the ingredients that comprised the sauce took center stage; the lemon, thyme and butter worked in concert to enhance everything on the plate. The light consistency assured that it did not overpower the salmon.

My husband also enjoyed his Seared Jumbo Scallops which were set upon toasted Quinoa (a grain similar to couscous), served with green beans, and topped with a tomato broth and olive tapenade. The tapenade was a perfect complement to the scallops. He only wished they had been more generous with the broth, which looked more like a sparingly adorned sauce.

For dessert we paired the Creme Brulee with a glass of the Bonny Doon Muscat. The Creme Brulee was served in a large dish, plenty for two to share. Cracking through the caramel layer on top revealed dense, sweet and creamy custard.

A couple of items to note: on the night we visited, it was very loud. Seeking a quiet and relaxing refuge after a long and busy week, we had to lean forward across the table and strain to hear each other. Diners might also be more comfortable if the cushions on the chairs were replaced, as the springs have collapsed from the restaurant's years of popularity.

There are no surprises at The Back Bay Grill. The food is consistently well prepared and fresh. There is something on the menu for every taste, and the service is top notch. Drawing an older crowd, The Back Bay Grill is the kind of place I would take out-of-town business associates. Case in point, Senator Olympia Snowe and former Governor John McKernan were at the next table entertaining guests. It is not a place I would take a serious foodie wanting to sample the best creative cuisine Portland has to offer.