Monday, December 3, 2007

Caribbean Warmth (Nisbet Plantation, Nevis)

If you are anything like me, now that the weather has turned colder, you are trying to figure out when you can escape to the warmth of the Caribbean.

My favorite slice of Caribbean heaven is a tiny island called Nevis, only seven miles long, and five miles wide. I stay at the wonderfully relaxed Nisbet Plantation. I originally learned of Nisbet while vacationing at their sister resort, The Reefs in Bermuda. Doing my typical pre-trip research, I was impressed by the consistent "5 star" ratings on Trip Advisor - hundreds of them. Nisbet has had equally impressive reviews from Conde Naste, Frommers, Fodors - pretty much everywhere I looked. Not a negative review to be had.

And once you stay there, you understand why. The property reminds me of a country club, with 36 rooms spread over the property in clusters of either two or four suites. All the Junior Suites have ocean views and all the rooms have plenty of privacy. I have stayed in all of the room categories, my favorite being the second floor Junior Suites closest to the ocean. The vaulted ceilings create a very open, airy feel, and the straight-on views of the ocean make the deck the perfect place to relax before dinner. I've done on-site property and room tours of the Four Seasons, and Montpelier Plantation Inn, and drive-bys of the other smaller places to stay, but prefer the pace, quality and size of Nisbet Plantation.

Nisbet and The Four Season are the only resorts on the island with their own beaches. A beach is a must for any Caribbean trip I take. Having a "Type A" personality, I'm on the go non-stop. Rest is important, and that is the purpose of my Nevis vacations. Fortunately, there is almost nothing to do in Nevis. Sure, there are those ambitious types who hike to the volcanic peak (really? on vacation?), some shop in the tiny town and there are day trips to the nearby island of St. Kitts. My big venture each vacation is a snorkeling trip that launches from the Four Season's. After the 2 hours excursion on the catamaran, the ever-flowing rum punches and the snorkeling, I'm usually exhausted. And the rest of the trip consists of leisurely breakfasts at Coconuts (the open-air restaurant overlooking the pool and beach), a couple of hours of reading in the hammock on the beach, lunch at the Sea Breeze Beach Bar, a nap in the hammock and afternoon tea at the Great House (if I can muster the strength to walk the Avenue of the Palms). Sometimes it's just easier to have champagne on the beach and watch the sunset.

And then dinner - prepared by Chef Tony. One of the highlights of the trip and what keeps me coming back. Other than Grande Case in St. Martin, the Caribbean is not known for its cuisine. So when I discovered Chef Tony at Nisbet, I was pleasantly surprised. A french trained sushi chef, his nightly fresh fish preparations typically include wonderfully delicate french sauces. A few entrees featured on the Nisbet website include Pan Seared Local Snapper with Okra Polenta and Tomato Ginger Broth, Cajun Dusted Tender Chicken Breast with Traditional Peas, Rice with Nisbet Virgin Sauce, and Char-Grilled Peppercorn Crusted Filet Mignon with Sweet Corn Whipped Potatoes and Wild Mushroom Sauce. Violet (our favorite member of the staff at Nisbet) always tells him when we have arrived so he can incorporate sushi into the menu.

Chef Tony needs his rest though, so on Thursday night he takes the night off and the beach comes alive at the Seafood BBQ and Manager's Rum Punch Party. A poolside buffet of salads and side dishes accompany the freshly grilled shrimp, grouper, marlin, mahi mahi and other fish caught that day. Afterwards there is dancing on the beach to the sounds of a local West Indian band. I always try to arrive on Thursdays, as there is no faster way to forget the stress and cares of everyday life than at this party, attended by locals and visitors alike.

At Nisbet, the members of the staff immediately learn your name, remember your preferences, and treat you like family. I discovered an allergy to conch on my last trip and the entire resort was on alert to ensure that conch was not used as an ingredient in any dish I ordered. Discovering my husband's preference for Keemun tea one afternoon at the Great House, Violet ensured they had it down at Coconuts for breakfast each morning thereafter. Service like that is hard to find anywhere.

My general rule of thumb is not to return to the same vacation spot twice, preferring to try something new. But the value you find at Nisbet is unbeatable when compared to similar properties in Turks & Caicos, St. Martin, Anquilla, St. Barth's and other islands I've either been to or researched. Breakfast and dinner are included in the price and in January and March they run a special where the seventh night is free. Dollar for dollar, I haven't found any better value, when you consider the quality of the resort, beach and the cuisine.

With that said, I have not booked my Caribbean escape for this year and I would love to hear from you if there is a spot you think I should check out. My criteria: the resort must have its own beach, the island must be relatively safe (I don't care for islands where armed guards on the beach are necessary), and I prefer an island that is on U.S. currency (considering the weak dollar at the moment). I'm not into the "corporate feel" of chain hotels, and typically prefer smaller boutique resorts. And it has to be warm in February!

Where do you think I should go? Do you have a favorite destination? Or have you heard of one you think I should check out? If so, please let me know by leaving a comment below.

In the meantime, if you live in the Northeast, enjoy this first blast of winter that arrived on our doorstep last evening!


3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Wonderful review of Nisbet! I've been there and it is everything you say it is. Like the size and the fact it is so relaxing - even the hike to the peak is. You should try it next time.

I always check Trip Advisor before I go anywhere. Saw where they rate Nisbet the best luxury hotel in Caribbean and the 6th best in the world!

Can't beat it for a relaxing vaction. The staff is very, very nice.

June Clark

Anonymous said...

Erin!
Desperate for advice. Loved the Reefs, LOVE ST. BARTS(been 4 times, rent villa). Need beach, safe island, local color. Keep thinking about Cap Juluca and Malliouhana, but they seem somewhat sterile. Didn't like the Turks, too bland, beautiful beaches, but no flavor...and local residents very unfriendly.Can't decide whether to do Nevis, Anguilla (leaning toward Malliouhana there) or maybe St. Lucia? Help! My kids ages 20, 18, 14 and my husband are divers.
Thanks!
Leslie

Erin said...

Definitely Nevis. Especially if you like St. Barts & The Reefs. I like staying at Nisbet Plantation (sister resort to The Reefs) for its tranquility, though the Four Seasons Resort is nice, too - just a bit more corporate. Nevis is a very quiet island, but if/when you're in the mood for nightlife or a bit more activity, St. Kitts is a short boat ride away. Anguilla would be my second choice - I'd skip St. Lucia.

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