Ribollita - Portland, Maine

My husband loves fall eating. Summers are far too short here in Maine to spend time in the kitchen; cooking has to be easy and quick. But with autumn brings hearty soups, fresh baked bread and homemade pasta. And for me, autumn brings dinner at Ribollita (41 Middle Street, Portland).

Lacking air conditioning, my husband will not patronize this restaurant during the summer months. Too bad because there is nothing more rewarding after my summer half marathon training runs than the Shrimp and Artichoke Carbonara at Ribollita.... laden with heavy cream, I can't justify eating it unless I'm fresh from one of my 2,500 calorie burning runs.

So each fall, when the weather cools, Ribollita is the first restaurant I call for reservations. We stopped in for dinner on what the waitress commented was the first "really good soup night" - where the cold outside chilled me to the bone and the piping hot - and very hearty - Ribollita soup (a Tuscan vegetable and bread soup) warmed me to the core. All summer I crave this signature soup - and the Tiramasu - the two must have items at this eatery.

While I savored my Ribollita, my husband enjoyed his cheese tortellini and chicken soup. The large tortellini was made on premise, as is all of the pasta; the chicken broth was authentic (not broth from a carton or can), and tasted as though it had been simmered with onions and celery. But it didn't hold a candle to my stew, thick with broth-soaked bread chunks, carrots, tomatoes, kale, celery and olive oil. Paired with the thick slices of bread from Scratch Bakery in South Portland that was dipped in wonderfully aromatic olive oil, this course could easily be a meal.

While on previous visits my husband has swooned over the mussels, this evening we shared the Caramelized Onion Tart. Made to order, the crust is crisp, buttery, flaky, and topped with caramelized onions, kalamata olives and goat cheese. It was excellent and might only have been enhanced with a splash of sherry added to the onions as they caramelized.

Wine is stored on hanging wall racks, doubling as decorations for the tiny restaurant. We've had several bottles opened over the years that had turned to vinegar, likely from the sun streaming in the large front windows and heating the wine. We now order by the glass; one we particularly enjoyed on this most recent visit was the bold and full bodied Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano.

I've had many of the entrees on the menu. Aside from the Shrimp Carbonara previously mentioned, other favorites include the Radicchio Wrapped Salmon, the Eggplant Napoleon and the Tuna Nicoise. The Artichoke Encrusted Cod sounded tempting, but I opted for the Market Risotto prepared with squash, caramelized onion, chunks of Gorgonzola and a balsamic swirl. Aside from needing salt, it was a perfect taste of fall; the balsamic vinegar added the perfect proportions of acidity and sweetness to this creamy dish. Portions at Ribollita are very large, and given the particular richness of this dish, I opted to take half home for lunch the next day.

My husband did the same with his Roasted Chicken Puttenesca, made with slow roasted, fall-off-the-bone, dark meat chicken chunks, mixed with house made ribbons of pasta, capers, kalamata olives and chunky tomato sauce. This dish was a bit bland, needing a punch of garlic, oregano and salt to bring the flavors together.

And then came the tiramisu. The best I've ever had; dense mocha mascarpone custard sandwiched between lady fingers soaked in espresso and sherry. Pre-made, it was perfectly chilled and refreshing - while at the same time rich and satisfying. This is the one dessert I really don't want to share; I have to eat it too fast so I get my equal share before my husband gobbles up the goodness.

There is a single door that opens into the restaurant (rather than a double door with vestibule to keep the cold air blocked from entering the restaurant). If you are the unfortunate couple seated right next to the door, and it is a cold winter night, you will freeze, so be sure to ask for a table in the "inside" dining room.

I highly recommend putting Ribollita on your "must try" list. Romantic, cozy and intimate, they serve excellent Tuscan comfort food at a fair price. While not as creative as Bresca, the food is far superior to that of Cinque Terre, at half the cost.