White Barn Inn - Kennebunk

As dramatic as the change in seasons from summer to winter, so were our experiences at the White Barn Inn.

Typically, I try to give restaurants a second chance when I am not pleased with a meal -- but I couldn't convince my husband to spend another $300 to $400 on what could be another repeat disappointment. So why did I return to the White Barn Inn after my Five Star Disappointment this summer? Because after completing a comment card describing our disappointing experience, Jonathan Cartwright, Executive Chef of the White Barn Inn, personally called to apologize for our experience, listen to our suggestions for improvement, and ask for a second chance - on his dime.

We decided to put some distance between our meals and opted to return just before Christmas, when the restaurant would be decorated for the holidays. Even if you don't care to dine at the White Barn, it is worth taking the time to stop in for a drink and admire the spectacularly lit trees, just outside the floor-to-ceiling plate glass window in the main dining room, a dramatic backdrop to the candle-lit interior. The sight is breathtaking.

Upon arrival, the valet whisked our car away and we were escorted into the restaurant and quickly seated. We were greeted by our waiter and ordered glasses of Domain Carneros '05 Pinot Noir. A classic pinot, smooth and bright with berry ($17), we enjoyed it all the more in the fine Riedel glassware.

The bread steward offered choices of baguettes and breads, serving a single piece at a time, accompanied by soft whipped butter and olive oil. Our waiter approached with a treat from the kitchen: a bite-sized piece of poached salmon with a dollop of bleu cheese mousse, set upon a cider reduction and decorated with toasted pine nuts. Eaten as a single bite, the flavors of the fish, cheese, sauce and pine nut melded together in perfect harmony; not a single element overpowered another. What a fabulous bite to start, and a sign of what was to come.

While we prefer wine pairings with our meal, we learned on our last visit that the glasses available for the pairing are limited. There seemed to be a single white and a single red in the "correct" price point (the fixed price pairing dictates what they will serve to accompany the food). Our waiter appeared knowledgeable about wines, so we opted to order wines by the glass and use our own knowledge, and the advice of our waiter, to create our own pairings.

At the waiter's suggestion, my husband selected the Alsace Gewurztraminer ($19) to pair with the Spice Rubbed Pan Seared Quail Breast and Quebec Foie Gras with a Pear and Port Wine Sauce. One of the White Barn Inn's signature dishes, it was spectacular with the smokey braised lentils and sauteed chanterelle mushrooms, perfect accompaniments to both the quail and the Foi Gras. The Gewurztraminer, brimming with semi-sweet fruit flavors of pear and apricot, stood up well to the earthy and sweet flavors in this dish. The wine paired equally well with the Celeriac Truffle Soup, served as his next course.

I can never resist risotto when it appears on a menu, particularly if it features truffles. The best I've had was at Redd - a to-die-for version, rich with cream, lobster and truffle oil. And, then there was the risotto with shaved white truffles at The French Laundry, and the same dish, though not nearly as well executed, that I had a year later at Spago in Beverly Hills. Cinque Terre's risotto with mushroom, brown butter and truffle oil was made extra rich with well-aged Parmigiana shaved atop the grains. Prezza did it almost as well as Redd and The French Laundry, if only because I prefer my risotto creamy rather than chewy. The White Barn Inn's version, a Forest Mushroom Risotto, was topped with the Chestnut and Truffle foam that added a rich and earthy taste to the al dente grains of rice. The accompanying apple smoked sea salt, served alongside the traditional version, added an interesting lift to the dish.

My choice of Butternut Squash Soup with Pumpkin Seed Oil was poured through a chinois until it was silky smooth and absent of any vegetable pulp or starch. A bit watery for my taste, it remained piping hot until the very last drop.

Though I was tempted to once again order the Steamed Maine Lobster Nestled on a Bed of Homemade Fettuccine with Cognac Coral Butter Sauce, I thought it best to try something different. I selected the Grilled Horseradish Crusted Maine Salmon Filet with Spaghetti Squash and Roasted Fingerling Potatoes. The Grain Mustard Sauce that adorned the plate added a subtle kick to the ultra fresh salmon.

My husband's choice of Local Sole Filet with Meyer Lemon Risotto, Little Neck Clams and Tomato Chardonnay Sauce was even better than the Dover Sole we had recently at Lydia Shire's Locke Ober. The pairing of Clos Du Val '04 Cabernet from Napa Valley ($23) was not ideal; it was too bold and complex for the delicate fish, though it was an excellent wine, completely absent of any harsh tannins. Unlike our previous visit, timing of the wine presentation was well executed. The waiter brought the wine to accompany each course several minutes in advance of the food delivery, allowing us time to taste our choices and select alternatives, if desired.

We decided to risk being too full for dessert and opt for the cheese course. An array of cheeses, mostly from Vermont, were served with fig chutney, berries, spiced nuts, whole figs, and shot glass filled with honey and balsamic vinegar. The pungent goat cheese was particularly outstanding when paired with a slice of strawberry and drizzled with the sweet and acidic honey balsamic sauce.

The "pre dessert" of banana puree with caramel cinnamon mousse left us little room for the Espresso Soufflés with Chocolate Ice Cream and Mascarpone Sauce. The few bites we could muster paired well with the Yalumba NV Museum Reserve Muscat from Australia, a nice deviation from some of the syrupy-sweet ports we have had in the past. We requested the home-made chocolates, candies and short breads, presented at the end of the evening, to be packaged to enjoy the next day --we simply could not indulge in another morsel.

Our experience at the White Barn Inn was exactly what we expect from a restaurant with Five Star Ratings from Mobile and AAA. Perfectly executed from start to finish, the ambiance, service, wine and cuisine were outstanding. Tenure in the kitchen and larger-than-life egos go hand-in-hand for most chefs. Not the case with Chef Jonathan Cartwright. He put his ego aside, listened to criticism, made improvements and asked for a second chance. We are immensely impressed with him and the dining experience he provides for his patrons -- we look forward to our return.