Tandoor - Portland, Maine

I have had more than a dozen meals at Tandoor over the years. It's a convenient pre-theater spot to grab dinner, since it is located within a short walking distance of Merrill Auditorium.

On a recent visit, I started with the Dal Shorba Soup. Served in a tiny bowl, the piping hot liquid was a perfect blend of split peas and lentils; it was appropriately thick with pulp from the peas and beans, spiced with cumin and coriander, and garnished with cilantro. My husband’s Tomato Soup was thinner than the Dal Shorba, and to his liking. Made with fresh tomatoes, ginger, onions and garlic, it had a hint of acidity from a splash of vinegar. The Masala tea, a favorite indulgence with our Indian meals, was a sweet blend of chai, cocoa and cream. The Garlic Naan is always a crowd pleaser with the piping hot unleavened bread dusted with garlic powder.

The Channa Masala I selected as my entrée was a combination of chick peas, tomatoes, ginger, garlic and onions spiced with cloves. You have to be a fan of chick peas (which I am) to enjoy this dish. As with most of the dishes at Tandoor, I found this one a bit bland, needing red pepper chutney to spice it up a bit. Unfortunately the chutney on this visit had an abundance of onions that overwhelmed the red pepper to the point that it was inedible.

Shrimp Tandoori Masala, typically one of our favorite dishes at Tandoor was a bit “off” that day. A surprisingly small portion of shrimp, lacking the usual charbroiled effect, was served with tomatoes in light cream sauce. This dish typically has more of a tomato broth; on this day it was heavy on the cream and had not simmered long enough for the flavors to meld.

Entrees were served with Basmati rice and when we asked for some additional rice, we received a deep sigh from our waiter. He was similarly impatient when we had questions about the menu at the time we placed our order.

Excellent Indian cuisine is difficult to find in Maine. The best Indian I have ever experienced was in London. Surprising, because I was dreading the food there, having heard horror stories of English Breakfasts and Spotted Dick. I certainly didn’t expect to find amazing Indian food right in the heart to the city. Unlike the traditionally mushy texture of Indian food in the States, in London you find crisp vegetables, fresh fish, fragrant fresh herbs and an abundance of creativity.

I don’t have great advice for those in search of fine Indian food in Greater Portland. If you do, let me know. Otherwise, when I crave Indian food, I will whip out my mortar and pestle, toast and grind my cumin and coriander seeds, and make my slow simmered Chicken and Eggplant Curry. Served over Basmati rice, with Garlic Naan and a side of roasted red pepper and eggplant chutneys -- this homemade dish is more satisfying than a visit to Tandoor.