One Dollar Sushi For You!

Now through December 2nd, Benkay Japanese Restaurant (located at 2 India St in Portland) is featuring One Dollar Sushi. An annual Thanksgiving tradition, I've never spent more on sushi dinners than the times I have gone on $1 sushi night. For only a dollar, it is tempting to try one of everything!

Street and Company - Portland, Maine

I met my husband's family for the first time at Street & Company - 14 years ago. In all those years, I don't think Street & Company has changed their menu, except for the nightly specials. And why should they? The place is always packed by locals and tourists alike, seeking well-prepared fresh fish, in a casual and fun, albeit loud, eatery.

We have been to Street & Company more than a dozen times. Our experiences have been mixed, with the issues primarily on the service side. In fact, for years we did not patronize the restaurant, after spending more than $100 for a dinner that was over in less than an hour. Literally, our entrees arrived before we had finished our appetizers. At that price point, one would expect a better paced meal.

But that is what you get at Street...a high quality meal - not a dining experience. I prefer both, and no one did it better than Erik at Bandol. Three hours of well-orchestrated entertainment and spectacularly creative fare.

Our most recent experience at Street and Company reinforced our opinion of "basic done well." Craving a bottle of red wine - perhaps an '04 or '05 Piniot Noir, we were not impressed with the selection and decided to try wines by the glass instead. There were only two that our waitress described as full bodied, and we tried one of each. The '05 Tempranillo from Spain lacked structure; my husband's '05 Sangiovese Centine, blended with Merlot and Cabernet, was full bodied and bright.

The Roasted Parsnip, carrot and squash soup was the standout dish of the evening. Perfectly blended, with just a hint of ginger and lemon to enhance the earthiness of the pureed vegetables, I would return to the restaurant simply to have this soup again.

Street and Company is well known for their mussels and my husband could not pass them up. Unlike the mussels at Fore Street (Dana Street's other Portland restaurant), the shells are not brittle from time spent in the oven, making them easier to eat. A huge serving, they are meant to two people to share. Unfortunately I have a severe allergy to mussels, so he was forced to enjoy them himself. And enjoy them he did, sopping up every last bit of the garlic and white wine butter sauce with the hearty bread from Standard Bakery.

My appetizer of marinated swordfish with par boiled purple potato, hard boiled egg and white anchovy sounded interesting, but wasn't. The chunks of swordfish were tender and encrusted with fresh herbs. When paired with the potato, egg and anchovy, the flavors did not meld or enhance one another.

While we waited for our entree (perfectly spaced and presented about 15 minutes after we finished our appetizers), we were amused by the waitstaff attire. The restaurant can get very warm, so comfort is a must, but it looked like a bad Gap ad, with the waitstaff in a variety of khaki bottoms (pants, shorts, capris) and white cotton tops, many of which were plain old "fruit of the loom" variety t-shirts...not becoming on many body types. Requiring a simple white collared polo type shirt would make the staff look a bit more professional.

After consuming so many mussels, my husband could only manage a few bits of his entree - the special of the evening - monkfish medallions with clams and shrimp (his request in lieu of the chorizo sausage) in a romesco sauce. The powerful and garlicky romesco sauce stood up well to the herb encrusted monkfish, though the herbs overpowered the taste of the fish. The leftovers made an exquisit lunch the next day when I made a grilled panini, by placing the sliced monkfish, romesco sauce, and a slice of swiss cheese between pieces of Naan (round flatbread, cooked in a tandoor oven).

I opted for my favorite Street & Company entree, the shrimp with tomatoes, garlic, capers and linguine, served in a frying pan, fresh from the flames of the gas range. On other visits I have been pleased with the blackened swordfish, particularly when it is featured as a special and served with a delicious sauce or salsa to enliven the dish. The tuna consistently disappoints, as it does not appear to be sushi grade and therefore cannot be enjoyed rare.

As mentioned, the restaurant is noisy and can get uncomfortably warm. The best bet is to ask for the "back room" where the tables are more comfortably spaced, the lighting is dimmer and more romantic, and you are away from the heat and the hustle and bustle of the kitchen.

We will return to Street & Company once or twice a year, as we have in the past. It's a great spot to dine before a show at The Merrill (they get you in an out in a timely fashion) - or to bring out-of-town guests and watch their eyes widen when their entree is served in a frying pan. Fine dining it is not, but for the best selection of seafood that Portland has to offer, it's the place to go.

Choices, Choices

For one spectacular meal in Southern Maine, where would you go?

By participating in the poll, found on the upper left hand side of my home page, you can help advise others where to take out-of-town "foodie" guests during the holidays.

While there are hundreds of dining establishments in southern Maine, I had to limit the list to those I consider among the best. If your favorite isn't on the list, tell me why it deserves to be added by adding a comment below.

Let your voice be heard. You have until December 15th to weigh in.

Sala Thai - Portland, Maine

For years, Sala Thai has been at the top of my list when I crave Thai cuisine. An old favorite, I hadn't been for awhile, choosing instead to try some of the other Portland area Thai restaurants. Thai Taste has been my favorite of the bunch, having had numerous excellent meals - dine in and take out alike. I thought it was time to go back to Sala Thai to see if it still lived up to my fond memories - and my claim of the best Pad Thai in Portland.

We started with the Pu-Pu Platter for two, consisting of Chicken Sate, Kat-Tong-Thon, Fried Thai Rolls, Fresh Spring Rolls and Thai Wings (which we substituted for extra Fresh Spring Rolls). The Chicken Sate was tender; the peanut sauce light and creamy. The spring rolls, both fresh and fried were on par with those I've had elsewhere, and served with a sweet and sour peanut sauce; the Kat-Tong-Thon, pastry shells filled with ground chicken, onions and corn, held the perfect amount of Thai spice and had a satisfying crunch.

We each tried a bowl of the Tom Yam Soup - shrimp added to my husband's, tofu in mine. The clear soup contained mushrooms, lemon juice and scallions and was quite spicy as a result of the seeds from the tiny Bird's Eye Chili Peppers that had been broken in the soup. We cleared out the sinuses with that course!

For our entrees, we selected the Koong Choo Chee, a curry dish with sauteed shrimp, coconut milk and lemon leaves to pair with our Pad Thai. Still the best Pad Thai in Portland? It rates high, but is not as good as the Pad Thai at Thai Taste. I do not care for oil and fish sauce as prominent flavors in my Pad Thai. And while Sala Thai's is better than most, Thai Taste does it better, letting the noodles, bean sprouts, egg and scallions take main stage, with just a hint of spice and oil.

The Koong Choo Chee was an abundance of large shrimp and a handful of lemon leaves soaking in a spicy curry sauce, adorned with slices of fresh, ripe tomatoes and cucumbers. The lemon leaves, which looked and tasted like Boston lettuce leaves, remained crisp under the mound of shrimp, yet soaked up the wonderful curry and coconut milk. Accustomed to the small bowls of rice at Pom's, we ordered an extra to accompany the Choo Chee - which turned out to be unnecessary. One bowl delivers plenty of rice for two individuals to share at Sala Thai, though white is the only option.

I was hoping for a Mai Tai to end the long work week, but Sala Thai only has a soft bar of beer and wine. The selection of wine by the glass and bottle is very limited, though I was happy with my "house" Thai wine, which tasted like Riesling and paired perfectly with each course, cutting through the spiciness of the food exceptionally well.

Anticipating inquiries about other Thai restaurants in the area, here's my opinion on the handful I frequent. Thai Taste (Pom's Cottage Road location) is the best by far, both in terms of service and cuisine. Pom's Thai Taste (Western Avenue) plays a close second, with Sala Thai ranking third. Both Chang Mai and Saengchai Thai are average, though the service at the latter can't be beat. Siam Thai comes in very low on the barometer. I have been more times than I care to remember over the years; the service is consistently poor, the food not at all authentic, but rather an American "take" on Thai.

Just take one look at the Portland Food Map and you'll see there are plenty of other Thai restaurants to try. The quest continues to see who can top Pom's...

Dining In

I decided to dine in last weekend, invite some friends over, drink some vino, relax by the fire and eat some chow.

Wanting to replicate the casually elegant, cheese, fruit and nut tray that we shared with a friend in California at The Girl and The Fig, I headed straight to The Cheese Iron in Scarborough. Proprietors Vince and Jill sent us home with a creamy cow's milk cheese from France (Brillat Savarin), a Spanish blue cheese (Valdeon Blue) an extra aged Mimolette (salty, Gouda-like cheese), and a Gruyere (Rolf Beeler's Hoch Ybrig). Standouts were the Spanish blue cheese paired with sliced fig cake and the creamy cow's milk cheese paired with sliced apple.

The standout wine of the evening (and we opened 6 bottles) was the slightly sweet and bubbly San Griod Moscato D'Asti. I took a chance, serving it with with a scoop of passionfruit sorbet and a coconut macaroon from Old World Gourmet. The tartness of the sorbet and the sweetness of the macaroon paired perfectly with the Moscato to create a creamy, almost butterscotch like taste. My guests couldn't get enough; we finished the entire bottle.

Sometimes the perfect evening is relaxing with friends at home, sipping wine, sampling cheeses, and enjoying each others' company. Times like these remind you of what is really important in life.

Here's to friends, food, wine and good times. Cheers!

Ribollita - Portland, Maine

My husband loves fall eating. Summers are far too short here in Maine to spend time in the kitchen; cooking has to be easy and quick. But with autumn brings hearty soups, fresh baked bread and homemade pasta. And for me, autumn brings dinner at Ribollita (41 Middle Street, Portland).

Lacking air conditioning, my husband will not patronize this restaurant during the summer months. Too bad because there is nothing more rewarding after my summer half marathon training runs than the Shrimp and Artichoke Carbonara at Ribollita.... laden with heavy cream, I can't justify eating it unless I'm fresh from one of my 2,500 calorie burning runs.

So each fall, when the weather cools, Ribollita is the first restaurant I call for reservations. We stopped in for dinner on what the waitress commented was the first "really good soup night" - where the cold outside chilled me to the bone and the piping hot - and very hearty - Ribollita soup (a Tuscan vegetable and bread soup) warmed me to the core. All summer I crave this signature soup - and the Tiramasu - the two must have items at this eatery.

While I savored my Ribollita, my husband enjoyed his cheese tortellini and chicken soup. The large tortellini was made on premise, as is all of the pasta; the chicken broth was authentic (not broth from a carton or can), and tasted as though it had been simmered with onions and celery. But it didn't hold a candle to my stew, thick with broth-soaked bread chunks, carrots, tomatoes, kale, celery and olive oil. Paired with the thick slices of bread from Scratch Bakery in South Portland that was dipped in wonderfully aromatic olive oil, this course could easily be a meal.

While on previous visits my husband has swooned over the mussels, this evening we shared the Caramelized Onion Tart. Made to order, the crust is crisp, buttery, flaky, and topped with caramelized onions, kalamata olives and goat cheese. It was excellent and might only have been enhanced with a splash of sherry added to the onions as they caramelized.

Wine is stored on hanging wall racks, doubling as decorations for the tiny restaurant. We've had several bottles opened over the years that had turned to vinegar, likely from the sun streaming in the large front windows and heating the wine. We now order by the glass; one we particularly enjoyed on this most recent visit was the bold and full bodied Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano.

I've had many of the entrees on the menu. Aside from the Shrimp Carbonara previously mentioned, other favorites include the Radicchio Wrapped Salmon, the Eggplant Napoleon and the Tuna Nicoise. The Artichoke Encrusted Cod sounded tempting, but I opted for the Market Risotto prepared with squash, caramelized onion, chunks of Gorgonzola and a balsamic swirl. Aside from needing salt, it was a perfect taste of fall; the balsamic vinegar added the perfect proportions of acidity and sweetness to this creamy dish. Portions at Ribollita are very large, and given the particular richness of this dish, I opted to take half home for lunch the next day.

My husband did the same with his Roasted Chicken Puttenesca, made with slow roasted, fall-off-the-bone, dark meat chicken chunks, mixed with house made ribbons of pasta, capers, kalamata olives and chunky tomato sauce. This dish was a bit bland, needing a punch of garlic, oregano and salt to bring the flavors together.

And then came the tiramisu. The best I've ever had; dense mocha mascarpone custard sandwiched between lady fingers soaked in espresso and sherry. Pre-made, it was perfectly chilled and refreshing - while at the same time rich and satisfying. This is the one dessert I really don't want to share; I have to eat it too fast so I get my equal share before my husband gobbles up the goodness.

There is a single door that opens into the restaurant (rather than a double door with vestibule to keep the cold air blocked from entering the restaurant). If you are the unfortunate couple seated right next to the door, and it is a cold winter night, you will freeze, so be sure to ask for a table in the "inside" dining room.

I highly recommend putting Ribollita on your "must try" list. Romantic, cozy and intimate, they serve excellent Tuscan comfort food at a fair price. While not as creative as Bresca, the food is far superior to that of Cinque Terre, at half the cost.

Terra Cotta Pasta Co.

The Terra Cotta Pasta Company, featuring freshly prepared, gourmet Italian foods, is now open. The company's third location (others in Dover, NH and Kittery) is located on Cottage Road in South Portland. A little out of the way, it will nevertheless be a frequent destination of mine to obtain speciality foods. Some things are just worth the drive.

Stop in and they will give you a tour of their cases and coolers of prepared foods. Artichoke and risotto cakes, grilled vegetable lasagnas, ready to cook flatbreads, pestos, olives, tapenades, cheeses, fresh pasta, soups, dumplings, dozens of varieties of pasta sauces and raviolis, frozen meatballs, pizza dough, bread from Standard Bakery...the list goes on and on. They pride themselves on their high quality olive oil and balsamic vinegar, sold in beautiful bottles that can be returned and re-filled.

Sampling is encouraged, with many items open and available for tasting throughout the small store. Little cups sit next to the soups to encourage trying before buying. Plastic spoons sit next to the olive oil and balsamic vinegar for the same purpose; Saturday is cheese sampling day.

Because we weren't going straight home, we had to be careful not to purchase anything perishable; we left with a bag of fresh Parsley & Garlic Linguine, Marinara Sauce (compliments of the store, just for stopping by) and Sundried Tomato and Black Olive Spread, which I will serve at an upcoming dinner party. I'll go back for the Wild Mushroom & Roasted Shallot Ravioli, the Champagne Cream Sauce and the oh-so-sweet balsamic vinegar.

The Terra Cotta Pasta Company is a welcome addition to the Greater Portland food scene, providing fresh, healthy dinners that can easily be reheated for busy families on the go, and delectable sundries, elegant enough to serve to company.

Back Bay Grill - Portland, Maine (First Review)

Note: A more recent Back Bay Grill Review is available.

As the weather turns colder and the holidays approach, my dining choices reflect a tendency towards classic fine-dining establishments such as The Back Bay Grill. My husband and I have been a half-dozen times over the years and always enjoy the experience.

The Back Bay Grill has an impressive selection of wines. On our most recent visit, we were thrilled to find the Award Winning 2004 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir on the menu, difficult to find since it was featured as one of the best California Pinot Noirs in Wine Spectator.

The restaurant has an equally impressive front-of-the-house manager that we mistook for the Sommelier. Adrian's knowledge of wines and his ability to describe them in such perfect detail, is somewhat unique in the Portland restaurant scene, where we typically hope for a waitperson who knows a little something about wines and pairings. So confident in his knowledge of wines - and because he is so customer oriented, he offers to purchase your opened bottle if you don't like his recommendation. He hasn't had to do it yet.

The wine selection was not the only stand out the evening we dined; the service is impeccable. Our waitress was knowledgeable about the food, and could describe each dish in detail. I asked if the sausage garnishment could be omitted from the soup (it could), and she went a step further to inquire if I was a vegetarian because often times the soup base is made with chicken broth. Wine and sparkling water was routinely refilled, as was the bread and butter. Timing between courses was perfect, just long enough to digest the previous course and enjoy some wine, but not long enough to wonder when the next dish was coming.

My husband started with the House Cured Gravlox (salmon) & Maine lobster, served with red onion sour cream and caraway crackers. The crackers paired well with the salmon and sour cream, but the caraway seeds overpowered the lobster. The lobster (a single, but large claw) was overly cold so that even when tasted by itself, its flavor could not be appreciated. This dish lacked creativity - there just wasn't any "wow" factor, particularly when compared to the Lobster Parfait served just up the street at Hugo's.

The Butternut squash soup was silky smooth, having been passed through a chinois. I was hoping for an intense taste of autumn in the soup that did not prevail; it tasted more of chicken broth than squash; the dollop of sour cream did not enhance the soup, rather it simply made it cold.

The next course was their version of Caesar, Hearts of Romaine with garlic dressing, shaved Parmesan and miniature croutons. The salad lacked the bold flavors of lemon, garlic and anchovy that I associate with Caesar salad. Even the long, thin ribbons of Parmesan cheese lacked the typical salty, nutty flavor. Perhaps I am overly critical of Caesar salad, accustomed to Chef Corey's grilled version at Five Fifty-Five; I have yet to find a more creative execution.

At most restaurants I find the most creativity in the appetizers and am often disappointed with the entree. Chefs seem to have fun with the little bites and even dessert, and become more conservative and traditional with the main course. Not so at The Back Bay Grill.

The Scottish Salmon must have been two inches thick! Translucent and warm in the center, it was of the highest quality, cooked to a medium rare perfection and served with wild rice, roasted root vegetables and an exquisitely light lemon thyme butter sauce. My only complaint was that there was not enough sauce - so I asked for extra, which they quickly delivered. None of the ingredients that comprised the sauce took center stage; the lemon, thyme and butter worked in concert to enhance everything on the plate. The light consistency assured that it did not overpower the salmon.

My husband also enjoyed his Seared Jumbo Scallops which were set upon toasted Quinoa (a grain similar to couscous), served with green beans, and topped with a tomato broth and olive tapenade. The tapenade was a perfect complement to the scallops. He only wished they had been more generous with the broth, which looked more like a sparingly adorned sauce.

For dessert we paired the Creme Brulee with a glass of the Bonny Doon Muscat. The Creme Brulee was served in a large dish, plenty for two to share. Cracking through the caramel layer on top revealed dense, sweet and creamy custard.

A couple of items to note: on the night we visited, it was very loud. Seeking a quiet and relaxing refuge after a long and busy week, we had to lean forward across the table and strain to hear each other. Diners might also be more comfortable if the cushions on the chairs were replaced, as the springs have collapsed from the restaurant's years of popularity.

There are no surprises at The Back Bay Grill. The food is consistently well prepared and fresh. There is something on the menu for every taste, and the service is top notch. Drawing an older crowd, The Back Bay Grill is the kind of place I would take out-of-town business associates. Case in point, Senator Olympia Snowe and former Governor John McKernan were at the next table entertaining guests. It is not a place I would take a serious foodie wanting to sample the best creative cuisine Portland has to offer.

Lydia Shire Comes to Maine!

Note: I reviewed Blue Sky on December 30.

Chef Lydia Shire (of Locke Ober fame) has opened her first Maine restaurant. Teaming up with developer Don Rivers and his wife Mary, the restaurant, "Blue Sky, is now open for business in York Beach.

I first became a Lydia Shire fan when I dined at her Park Plaza restaurant, Pignoli. It was there that I learned it was possible to have rare Ahi tuna that is warm in the middle. She infused the fish with hot orange essence...never have I had tuna prepared so exquisitely.

I look forward to checking out her latest endeavor...if you beat me to it, let me know how it is.

Patz & Hall

On our last vacation, one of the highlights was a private tasting at Patz & Hall. I was hoping to taste and buy the Award winning 2004 Pinot Noir.... but they were out.

Friday night I was surprised to find it at The Back Bay Grille in Portland, Maine. And it was so much better because it was their very last bottle!

Almost as good as the '04 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir I found at La Toque, the Patz & Hall had a more complex bouquet, fruity without being jammy, dense with flavor, deep ruby color and was silky smooth on the finish. It's the kind of wine you don't want to pair with food. You just want to sip, hold it in your mouth for a moment to let the flavors coat the palate, and savor....

It doesn't get much better than this...

Tea Time - Dragon Pearl Tea

I make semi annual trips to Boston to buy loose leaf Dragon Pearl tea at Teavana, Copley Square. Tiny pearls, made by hand rolling green tea leaves, release a distinctively floral, and slightly nutty aroma. You can get multiple steeps from just a few pearls. I use it all summer long to make pitchers of refined, and uniquely flavored fresh brewed iced tea.

When the cold weather arrives, my husband prefers hot tea, but won't take the time to steep fresh tea leaves. So I stock up on tea bags, typically Tazo Teas (Awake is his favorite). Occasionally I order him Keemun tea (impossible to find locally in tea bags) from Dean & Deluca, paying more in shipping than for the tea itself.

While vacationing at Meadowood earlier this fall, we discovered Harney & Sons Dragon Pearl Jasmine Tea. Sure enough, it was the same hand rolled pearls that we brew all summer, contained in a silk sachet. Instant tea of the finest kind. Not able to find it at any store locally, (even Dean & Deluca doesn't carry it) I order it directly from Harney & Sons.

Now I just need another excuse for my Boston trips...Newbury Street is calling.

North Star Cafe - Portland, Maine

Anestes Fotiades at Portland Food Map gave the North Star Cafe a 5 star rating, so I decided to give it a try.

Located in the East end of Portland (225 Congress Street), and not in the center of the Old Port, I was surprised to see it draw such a large lunch crowd. The day I stopped by they were mobbed; unusually busy, according to one of the folks that works there.

The Portland Food Map rating is well deserved -- they offer some of the best sandwiches in town. Fresh ingredients, unusual concoctions, numerous vegetarian and vegan offerings, and a friendly, informal and relaxed environment. It's the kind of place you'd like to settle into one of the comfy couches and spend a Sunday morning...munching a bagel, sipping coffee and reading the newspaper....

Back to our lunch.

I couldn't resist the chestnut soup featured that day; how often do you see chestnut soup on a menu? It was flavorful and lightly spiced with nutmeg. The corn chowder my husband ordered was chock full of kale, potatoes and corn...not the creamy version I am accustomed to, and therefore better for the waistline.

The Gemini sandwich contained Applegate Farm's turkey, cheddar cheese, a thick slice of apple, and mesculin greens. Such simple ingredients that I would never have thought to put together in a sandwich were in perfect concert. I think this is my new favorite sandwich.

The Leo, roasted red pepper, goat cheese, avocado and lettuce, served on home made honey wheat bread, would only have been better had the bread been sliced thicker. Thinly sliced and lightly toasted, it almost tasted stale, which I don't think it was. Home made bread is best when sliced thick so the toasting crisps the outside and leaves the inside doughy and warm.

Both sandwiches were served with a side salad of mesculin greens and tomatoes, tossed with a honey balsamic dressing. Lunch for the two of us was $23.

I'd like to see wraps offered as an alternative to bread; my husband would like to see baguette as an option for all sandwiches. He noticed several baguettes on the prep counter and asked if he could have his sandwich on one. He was told that they were reserved for one sandwich only - the Hercules. Even if they charge a little more for the baguette, it would be nice to have the option.

If the North Star Cafe continues to draw large crowds of patrons wanting to dine in, they should invest in a better HVAC system. The smell of "human humidity" socked me in the face when I entered the restaurant. Even some ceiling fans might do the trick...just something to circulate the air.

The North Star Cafe fills a nice niche - a true neighborhood gathering spot, offering fabulously fresh, delicious and creative fare. I am putting them on my list of lunch spots to order lunch from for our office meetings, and will stop in for breakfast or lunch when in the neighborhood.