Showing newest 13 of 15 posts from December 2007. Show older posts
Showing newest 13 of 15 posts from December 2007. Show older posts

Sunday, December 30, 2007

Blue Sky and Sunshine Sauce (York, Maine)

Chef Lydia Shire has opened her first Maine restaurant, on the second floor of the former Atlantic House Hotel in York Beach. Still under construction, the massive restoration will ultimately house a half-dozen condos, the Blue Sky Restaurant, a couple of shops and Clara's Cupcake Cafe and Bakery.

Both the decor and menu are unique in the Maine landscape. The restaurant can seat 146 patrons, plus 60 more on the deck. For those familiar with Portland, Maine restaurants, that's like putting Hugo's, Bresca and Fore Street together under the same roof. Inside it feels more like a Boston restaurant than anything you will find in Maine: modern, airy and open, with tall ceilings, industrial piping, a large fireplace, wooden tables and comfortable cream colored chairs and banquettes. Patrons can sit at the food bar that circles the wood burning oven and watch as their meal is prepared, or take a seat at the bar in the lounge that can be closed off for noise control when watching the game.

We started with glasses of Liberty School '05 Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles ($9.50), a standing favorite since visiting the region. As we sipped our wine and perused the menu, I inquired about any "signature dishes." The waitress quickly directed us to the Lobster Pizza ($24) that used to be featured on the menu of Lydia Shire's famed Boston restaurant, BIBA. Succulent is the best adjective to describe this pie, a thin "fried dough" crust, topped with chopped scallions, fresh parsley, sauteed onions, smoked ricotta, an abundance of lobster, and drizzled with a lobster cream sauce. My mouth is watering from the memory of this dish that was so divine, it made the list of my "Top 10 Food Experiences of 2007."

The Hogue '06 Reisling ($8) paired exceptionally well with the sweet apple mashed potatoes that accompanied my husband's Sugarcane Roast Chicken ($24). The poultry was moist, but lacked flavor; we expected something a bit more interesting when the waitress said it was prepared with Asian spices and soy sauce.

Though the Pappardelle Pasta with Blue Hubbard Squash and Pumpkin Seed Brittle ($22) was tempting (and recommended by our waitress), I opted for the Maple Roasted Scottish Salmon in Parsnip Stew ($28). Lacking pizazz, the wild salmon was set in a bowl containing thin parsnip broth,boiled pearl onions, baby carrots and subtly spiced with rosemary and nutmeg.

At the suggestion of our waitress, we ordered a side of Twice Fried String Beans w/ Ginger Juice ($7), only to be notified that they were out of green beans. I shrugged it off and ordered the only other vegetable side on the menu, the "Big Broccoli" ($7), but my husband commented that since beans are one of only two vegetables on the menu, and not all that expensive, it would be prudent to have an abundance on hand. I see his point. Intrigued by the sound of the Hot Raised Potato Doughnut with Lyles Golden Syrup ($4), our waitress suggested that this fried concoction might be too sweet with our dinners, so we opted for the grown-up version of Tater Tots with Green Onion ($6).

The Steamed Chocolate Cake was remarkably moist, a dense and rich pudding-like consistency, the cake was infused with a shot of coffee and served atop "sunshine sauce", a cream sauce with a splash of bourbon. The bread and desserts are made on premise each day; the pastry chef will soon be opening a bakery on the first floor of the Atlantic House.

Open only two short months, there are still some kinks that need to be worked out. While our waitress was friendly and knowledgeable about the menu, water and wine glasses were not filled in a timely fashion, twice the busboys tried to clear my plate moments after I had begun eating (don't put down your fork at this restaurant!), and it took nearly 20 minutes after we were seated for bread to be delivered to our table. With no hot water in either the mens' or ladies' bathrooms, one wonders how the chefs are able to adequately sanitize their hands before engaging in food preparation. My final suggestion is that the television in the bar area be placed so that patrons enjoying an expensive meal in the dining room do not feel like they are at their local pub.

Is this a destination from Portland? With the abundance of restaurants within a short drive, probably not. Most of the patrons frequenting Blue Sky are from Boston, Portsmouth and the surrounding York County communities. If you live or are vacationing in the area, it is worth a stop. I found the menu to be a refreshing change from those I see at most high-end restaurants, with interesting and unique offerings that you just don't see elsewhere.

When you visit Blue Sky, leave your diet at the door and make sure you try the Lobster Pizza.

Saturday, December 29, 2007

White Barn Inn - Kennebunk

As dramatic as the change in seasons from summer to winter, so were our experiences at the White Barn Inn.

Typically, I try to give restaurants a second chance when I am not pleased with a meal -- but I couldn't convince my husband to spend another $300 to $400 on what could be another repeat disappointment. So why did I return to the White Barn Inn after my Five Star Disappointment this summer? Because after completing a comment card describing our disappointing experience, Jonathan Cartwright, Executive Chef of the White Barn Inn, personally called to apologize for our experience, listen to our suggestions for improvement, and ask for a second chance - on his dime.

We decided to put some distance between our meals and opted to return just before Christmas, when the restaurant would be decorated for the holidays. Even if you don't care to dine at the White Barn, it is worth taking the time to stop in for a drink and admire the spectacularly lit trees, just outside the floor-to-ceiling plate glass window in the main dining room, a dramatic backdrop to the candle-lit interior. The sight is breathtaking.

Upon arrival, the valet whisked our car away and we were escorted into the restaurant and quickly seated. We were greeted by our waiter and ordered glasses of Domain Carneros '05 Pinot Noir. A classic pinot, smooth and bright with berry ($17), we enjoyed it all the more in the fine Riedel glassware.

The bread steward offered choices of baguettes and breads, serving a single piece at a time, accompanied by soft whipped butter and olive oil. Our waiter approached with a treat from the kitchen: a bite-sized piece of poached salmon with a dollop of bleu cheese mousse, set upon a cider reduction and decorated with toasted pine nuts. Eaten as a single bite, the flavors of the fish, cheese, sauce and pine nut melded together in perfect harmony; not a single element overpowered another. What a fabulous bite to start, and a sign of what was to come.

While we prefer wine pairings with our meal, we learned on our last visit that the glasses available for the pairing are limited. There seemed to be a single white and a single red in the "correct" price point (the fixed price pairing dictates what they will serve to accompany the food). Our waiter appeared knowledgeable about wines, so we opted to order wines by the glass and use our own knowledge, and the advice of our waiter, to create our own pairings.

At the waiter's suggestion, my husband selected the Alsace Gewurztraminer ($19) to pair with the Spice Rubbed Pan Seared Quail Breast and Quebec Foie Gras with a Pear and Port Wine Sauce. One of the White Barn Inn's signature dishes, it was spectacular with the smokey braised lentils and sauteed chanterelle mushrooms, perfect accompaniments to both the quail and the Foi Gras. The Gewurztraminer, brimming with semi-sweet fruit flavors of pear and apricot, stood up well to the earthy and sweet flavors in this dish. The wine paired equally well with the Celeriac Truffle Soup, served as his next course.

I can never resist risotto when it appears on a menu, particularly if it features truffles. The best I've had was at Redd - a to-die-for version, rich with cream, lobster and truffle oil. And, then there was the risotto with shaved white truffles at The French Laundry, and the same dish, though not nearly as well executed, that I had a year later at Spago in Beverly Hills. Cinque Terre's risotto with mushroom, brown butter and truffle oil was made extra rich with well-aged Parmigiana shaved atop the grains. Prezza did it almost as well as Redd and The French Laundry, if only because I prefer my risotto creamy rather than chewy. The White Barn Inn's version, a Forest Mushroom Risotto, was topped with the Chestnut and Truffle foam that added a rich and earthy taste to the al dente grains of rice. The accompanying apple smoked sea salt, served alongside the traditional version, added an interesting lift to the dish.

My choice of Butternut Squash Soup with Pumpkin Seed Oil was poured through a chinois until it was silky smooth and absent of any vegetable pulp or starch. A bit watery for my taste, it remained piping hot until the very last drop.

Though I was tempted to once again order the Steamed Maine Lobster Nestled on a Bed of Homemade Fettuccine with Cognac Coral Butter Sauce, I thought it best to try something different. I selected the Grilled Horseradish Crusted Maine Salmon Filet with Spaghetti Squash and Roasted Fingerling Potatoes. The Grain Mustard Sauce that adorned the plate added a subtle kick to the ultra fresh salmon.

My husband's choice of Local Sole Filet with Meyer Lemon Risotto, Little Neck Clams and Tomato Chardonnay Sauce was even better than the Dover Sole we had recently at Lydia Shire's Locke Ober. The pairing of Clos Du Val '04 Cabernet from Napa Valley ($23) was not ideal; it was too bold and complex for the delicate fish, though it was an excellent wine, completely absent of any harsh tannins. Unlike our previous visit, timing of the wine presentation was well executed. The waiter brought the wine to accompany each course several minutes in advance of the food delivery, allowing us time to taste our choices and select alternatives, if desired.

We decided to risk being too full for dessert and opt for the cheese course. An array of cheeses, mostly from Vermont, were served with fig chutney, berries, spiced nuts, whole figs, and shot glass filled with honey and balsamic vinegar. The pungent goat cheese was particularly outstanding when paired with a slice of strawberry and drizzled with the sweet and acidic honey balsamic sauce.

The "pre dessert" of banana puree with caramel cinnamon mousse left us little room for the Espresso Soufflés with Chocolate Ice Cream and Mascarpone Sauce. The few bites we could muster paired well with the Yalumba NV Museum Reserve Muscat from Australia, a nice deviation from some of the syrupy-sweet ports we have had in the past. We requested the home-made chocolates, candies and short breads, presented at the end of the evening, to be packaged to enjoy the next day --we simply could not indulge in another morsel.

Our experience at the White Barn Inn was exactly what we expect from a restaurant with Five Star Ratings from Mobile and AAA. Perfectly executed from start to finish, the ambiance, service, wine and cuisine were outstanding. Tenure in the kitchen and larger-than-life egos go hand-in-hand for most chefs. Not the case with Chef Jonathan Cartwright. He put his ego aside, listened to criticism, made improvements and asked for a second chance. We are immensely impressed with him and the dining experience he provides for his patrons -- we look forward to our return.

My Top 10 Best Food Experiences of 2007

  1. Dining at Alinea(Chicago)


  2. Discovering Kosta Browne '04 Pinot Noir


  3. Risotto with Lobster, Lemon Confit and Truffle Oil at Redd (Yountville, CA)


  4. Lobster & New Potato Parfait at Hugo's (Portland, ME)


  5. Dim Sum at Noodle Asia (Venetian -- Las Vegas)


  6. Discovering San Griod Moscato D'Asti


  7. Lobster Pizza at Blue Sky (York Beach, ME)


  8. Tiramisu at Ribollita (Portland, ME)


  9. Charred Cherry Tomato Bruschetta at Bresca (Portland, ME)


  10. Salmon Benedict at Meadowood (Rutherford, CA)

Saturday, December 22, 2007

Fore Street - Portland, Maine (First Review)

Note: A more recent Fore Steet Review is available.

Rated #26 in the Country by Gourmet Magazine (2006), it is difficult to secure reservations at Fore Street (Portland, Maine) without some advance planning, particularly if you are hoping to dine on a Friday or Saturday night. Reservations are available on Opentable.com; they also reserve 1/3 of their tables for “walk ins”. I used to think this was a joke, as anytime I have “walked in “ at 7pm hoping for one of these tables, it is always a 1 ½ -2 hour wait. But I now know that you just have to show up between 5:30 and 6 to secure your reservation for the evening, you don’t necessarily have to dine then.

I stopped in after work on a recent Friday night at 5:40 pm, inquired about availability for two, and was told they had plenty of “walk in” tables. They asked what time I would like to dine and I was lucky enough to secure a 7pm dining reservation. I then went home, changed into more comfortable attire, grabbed my husband and returned shortly before 7.

Upon our arrival, we were shown to a table in the main dining room, next to the tall windows overlooking the parking lot, and the dock for Casco Bay Lines. In warmer weather this is a “premier” table, as you can observe the passers-by, have a view of the entire restaurant, and watch the chefs work their magic in the wood ovens. It sure beats the tables that look into the brightly lit parking garage. But on the night we dined, it was fiercely cold and we immediately felt a draft when we were seated. The hostess offered to seat us in a warmer area if we could wait 10-15 minutes, which allowed us a chance to sink into one of the comfy couches in the lounge and enjoy glasses of ’04 Bridlewood Syrah from Healdsburg, my favorite California town. Note: the wine list advertises this wine as an ’05, the bottle it is poured from is an ’04 – a very good year for California reds. Slightly jammy, full bodied and soft on the tannins, the wine was exceptionally smooth on the finish. We selected the same wine for dinner, ordering a bottle for $32.

I frequent Fore Street four to five times a year, mostly with out-of-town guests dying to try the famed Fore Street. I’ve always been satisfied, though not overly impressed with my meals. Sure, Sam Hayward puts together dishes of only the freshest ingredients, whether it be day-boat fish or local organic vegetables that are in season, showcased in all of their natural splendor. I just typically long for more creativity. Alice Waters of Chez Panisse in Berkley, California seems to share many of the same philosophies as Sam Hayward, yet she manages to shake things up a bit, allowing the freshest ingredients to set the stage for a bit of creativity and flair.

On our most recent visit I was impressed to find more creativity in the Fore Street menu than in past visits. Maybe Sam is getting tired of ultra simple preparations. I started with the Pan Seared Jumbo Oyster Mushrooms, set in mushroom jus and served with a white cornmeal hasty pudding. The mushrooms were perfectly shaped and gigantic. Served in a tiny cast iron skillet, they were sheer perfection to look at and tasted even better. I have never tasted a mushroom so earthy, meaty and delicious. The cornmeal hasty pudding was a bit dry and granular until I mixed in the mushroom reduction; the combination was unbelievable, as the jus added an earthy mushroom moisture to the cornmeal. Aside from the goat cheese and roasted tomato salad I had on a previous visit, this was the best dish I have had – ever – at Fore Street. If you enjoy mushrooms, I would encourage you to order it when it next appears on the menu.

My husband started with the Penne and Maine Cheddar, served with roasted cipollini, fennel and kale. This dish turned out to be a fantastic “grown up” and sophisticated version of macaroni and cheese. The combination of roasted onions and cellar-aged Maine cheddar cheese, lent a distinctive element to the dish. The fennel and kale were roasted and added a subtle and pleasing enhancement to the pasta and cheese. I could have had this as my entrée, it was so filling and utterly satisfying.

As with many restaurants, I find the entrees at Fore Street to be far less interesting than the appetizers. It seems that chefs, for the most part, take chances and showcase their creativity in the smaller dishes, while the entrees are typically more traditional. On the night we dined, I was hoping to enjoy the Artic Char for my entrée, but was discouraged when I was told that there were no substitutions for the leeks and apple bacon that accompanied the dish. I was surprised that a restaurant such as Fore Street had such rigid guidelines. Instead I settled for the Day Boat Atlantic Halibut, which was extremely fresh and served with white bean mash, roasted garlic and braised greens.

My husband selected the Atlantic Monkfish with sweet onions and a shellfish broth as his entree. A "broth lover," he was highly disappointed with the scant amount of liquid in the bottom of the dish. The restaurant’s signature dish is the Dry Rubbed Pork Loin. If you like Pork and are visiting this restaurant for the first time, I strongly encourage you to order this dish. Moist and tender, I'll bet you've never tasted Pork like this; it literally falls off the bone and melts in your mouth.

I fell in love with the fresh beets at Fore Street years ago, and order them each time I dine there. Unfortunately, the side of organic beets with sherry apricot butter that I had on this particular evening was overcooked. The Roasted Fall Squash, a combination of Delicato and Butternut Squash was fabulous. The sweet squash was nicely contrasted by acidity from the cider used to moisten the vegetable when mashing. The Garlic Mashed Potatoes are always a favorite; light on the butter to allow the taste of the local organic potatoes to shine. The brussel sprouts with horseradish chive butter are ho-hum; when I've had them they have always been overcooked.

Desserts are always a treat at Fore Street. We often stop into the lounge after having dined elsewhere to share the Warm Dark Chocolate Torte, which is always on the menu, though the the accompanying ice-cream is ever changing. A tempting recent addition to the dessert menu is the Three Macaroons: pistachio-almond, coconut and espresso almond, served with a mug of hot chocolate. Seemingly, taking a cue from Chef Corey and his signature dessert at Five-Fifty-Five, Fore Street has added unusual house-made sorbets to the menu, as well.

I never feel that I am overcharged when eating at Fore Street. I always leave fully satisfied and very happy with the bill; it’s difficult to get to the $150 price point, even with a nice bottle of wine and tip.

Fore Street certainly deserves the number three ranking, as voted by my readers in the "Best Restaurants in Southern Maine" poll. If you are seeking creativity, try Five Fifty-Five or Hugo's. If you're seeking simplicity done right, Fore Street is a sure bet.

Bon Appetit!

Friday, December 21, 2007

Umbria - Boston

On a recent Saturday night, we had reservations at Troquet, a fabulous restaurant in Boston's Theater District, specializing in wine and food pairings. Widely recommended as a “must do” in Boston, we secured our reservations weeks in advance.

Unfortunately, on the day of our Trouquet dinner, we indulged in Holiday Tea at the Boston Harbor Hotel too close to dinner and my husband and I were too full to sit through a multi-course meal and wine pairing. We thought it best to cancel our reservations and opt for a simpler meal close by to the hotel. At the recommendation of the concierge, we ended up across the the street at an Italian eatery called Umbria.

Though the building is five stories and houses a nightclub in addition to the restaurant, opening the front door revealed a quaint Italian dining room, complete with wood beams on the ceilings and red brick walls. Tables, a bit too close together, were occupied by couples enjoying intimate dinners, and large parties of friends enjoying each others’ company. As we were seated, I noticed that the television in the bar area could be seen from many of the tables in the restaurant, something they could easily avoid by a simple re-positioning of the screen.

Our waiter started us with baguette slices and cubes of foccacia bread, topped with grilled onion, olive oil and rosemary. The bread was served with a white bean and olive oil spread that was a bit bland for our taste. Umbria must have many patrons who do not care for this, as our waiter quickly mentioned that they also had butter and olive oil if we did not care for the taste of the spread.

We shared an appetizer of Grilled Eggplant Timbalini. Paper thin slices of eggplant were grilled and wrapped around a combination of goat cheese and pesto, then placed in the hot brick oven to warm the concoction. Little balls of fried cheese adorned the plate and paired well with the eggplant. Despite the intense taste of garlic, this appetizer was at once delicate and rich.

I was in the mood for seafood and pasta that evening and decided to deviate from the menu a bit to accommodate my craving, and my food allergies. Many of the seafood entrees contained scallops and/or mussels - either in the dishes themselves, or in a crustacean broth. The chef nicely accommodated my request for Lobster Ravioli with a Lobster Red Sauce. The Ravioli tasted homemade, each piece holding an abundance of lobster, creating rich little pouches. The sauce was bland and benefited from some red pepper flakes that our waiter brought along with the salt and pepper.

My husband’s quest for a “simple dish” proved to be the highlight of the evening: roasted chicken and ricotta ravioli with grape tomatoes and mushrooms in an exquisite Parmesan sauce. The ravioli had an intense chicken taste from the dark meat contained within the pasta. The sauce was more of a broth and flavored with aged Parmesan cheese that created a delectable combination when paired with the ravioli, tomato and mushroom in a single bite.

The tables are small at Umbria and the bowls that they serve the entrees in are oversized to an extreme, making patrons feel a bit cramped. On the plus side, the waiters are authentic Italians (strong accents and knowledgeable about the menu items), the chef is accommodating, and the food is hearty and creative. With so many extraordinary restaurants right around the corner in Boston’s North End, I likely won’t return anytime soon, but if you find yourself unable to get a reservation elsewhere on a busy Saturday night, and are in the mood for decent Italian food, I would certainly give Umbria a try.

As for Troquet, I will try again!

Tandoor - Portland, Maine

I have had more than a dozen meals at Tandoor over the years. It's a convenient pre-theater spot to grab dinner, since it is located within a short walking distance of Merrill Auditorium.

On a recent visit, I started with the Dal Shorba Soup. Served in a tiny bowl, the piping hot liquid was a perfect blend of split peas and lentils; it was appropriately thick with pulp from the peas and beans, spiced with cumin and coriander, and garnished with cilantro. My husband’s Tomato Soup was thinner than the Dal Shorba, and to his liking. Made with fresh tomatoes, ginger, onions and garlic, it had a hint of acidity from a splash of vinegar. The Masala tea, a favorite indulgence with our Indian meals, was a sweet blend of chai, cocoa and cream. The Garlic Naan is always a crowd pleaser with the piping hot unleavened bread dusted with garlic powder.

The Channa Masala I selected as my entrée was a combination of chick peas, tomatoes, ginger, garlic and onions spiced with cloves. You have to be a fan of chick peas (which I am) to enjoy this dish. As with most of the dishes at Tandoor, I found this one a bit bland, needing red pepper chutney to spice it up a bit. Unfortunately the chutney on this visit had an abundance of onions that overwhelmed the red pepper to the point that it was inedible.

Shrimp Tandoori Masala, typically one of our favorite dishes at Tandoor was a bit “off” that day. A surprisingly small portion of shrimp, lacking the usual charbroiled effect, was served with tomatoes in light cream sauce. This dish typically has more of a tomato broth; on this day it was heavy on the cream and had not simmered long enough for the flavors to meld.

Entrees were served with Basmati rice and when we asked for some additional rice, we received a deep sigh from our waiter. He was similarly impatient when we had questions about the menu at the time we placed our order.

Excellent Indian cuisine is difficult to find in Maine. The best Indian I have ever experienced was in London. Surprising, because I was dreading the food there, having heard horror stories of English Breakfasts and Spotted Dick. I certainly didn’t expect to find amazing Indian food right in the heart to the city. Unlike the traditionally mushy texture of Indian food in the States, in London you find crisp vegetables, fresh fish, fragrant fresh herbs and an abundance of creativity.

I don’t have great advice for those in search of fine Indian food in Greater Portland. If you do, let me know. Otherwise, when I crave Indian food, I will whip out my mortar and pestle, toast and grind my cumin and coriander seeds, and make my slow simmered Chicken and Eggplant Curry. Served over Basmati rice, with Garlic Naan and a side of roasted red pepper and eggplant chutneys -- this homemade dish is more satisfying than a visit to Tandoor.

Monday, December 17, 2007

Prezza - Boston

Prezza, located at 24 Fleet Street in Boston's North End, serves high-end, creative Italian cuisine. Chef/Owner, Anthony Caturano has created a fun, yet sophisticated atmosphere. Dimly lit, with interesting artwork adorning the walls and upbeat music playing at the bar, this is as much a date night restaurant as a place to hang out with friends after work.

We started with a glass of Landmark 2004 Syrah and a Geyser Peak 2004 Reserve Cabernet. The former was smooth and mature. The Cab tasted young with a strong berry taste, yet soft tannins. A basket of warm foccacia bread and baguette slices was served with a small dish of kalamata and green olives set in olive oil, perfect for dipping the bread while we perused the menu.

The menu is diverse, with something for everyone, whether you are seeking pasta, seafood, beef or chicken. The Roasted Portabello Mushroom with Polenta, Roasted tomato and Parmesan ($14) caught my eye, but after much hemming and hawing, I finally settled on the Risotto with wild mushrooms, fontina and Parmesan ($15). It was - in a word - extraordinary. Earthy and rich, the mushroom medley, shiitake, portabella and porcini, took center stage in this dish. The risotto was creamy, which I prefer to some chewy, al dente versions I have tried elsewhere. I could have stopped after finishing this dish, as it was both filling, and the pinnacle of the food selections that evening.

My husband started with an appetizer size portion of the Oversized Ravioli, stuffed with egg yolk and ricotta, and served with with shaved black truffles ($10 ea). The Ravioli, set upon the runny yolk, created a perfectly flavorful pillow upon which thickly sliced black truffles (comparatively speaking to most shaved truffles) rested. It was a difficult competition between this and the Risotto for "best dish" that evening.

Next we tried the Fried Asparagus, topped with truffle aioli and served with a side salad of arugula, roasted red peppers and balsamic vinaigrette ($10). The asparagus was served al dente, battered and fried. The batter, while thin, tasted "heavy", likely because the oil in which it was fried needed to be changed. The salad was a refreshing contrast to the fried vegetables, the sweet taste of high quality balsamic complimenting the sharp arugula and sweet peppers.

The Mushroom Soup is cooked to order and consists of braised white beans, roasted tomato, mushroom slices and rosemary, topped with slices of grilled bread, spread with olive oil and garlic ($14). Upon arrival at the table, the soup was a disappointment. For some reason I was expecting a thick and creamy mushroom stew; this soup was thin and tasted like chicken broth, pureed with white beans, olive oil and thinned with water. A bit of porcini broth would have been a welcome enhancement. The addition of salt before each bite helped flavor the dish - and also helped bind the ingredients. The soup was greatly enhanced when pieces of the charred bread was scooped up in the spoon with the broth. By the end of the dish the flavors started to meld, indicating that the soup needed to simmer longer before it is served.

While the Chestnut Ravioli with pulled duck, butter and parmesan was tempting, my husband and I both settled on the Pumpkin Ravioli with lobster, brown butter, sage and mascarpone. Pasta may be ordered as an appetizer ($15) or entree ($28), we selected the former, which was plenty considering the leading courses. The ravioli was stuffed with mascarpone and topped with diced pumpkin and chunks of lobster claw. The sauce of brown butter and sage was abundant on the plate and paired well with both the pumpkin and lobster. We used the bread to sop up every last bit of the heavenly richness.

With tiramisu being one of my favorite desserts, I was disappointed when I found myself too full to try Prezza's version. The portions are large, the food is rich, yet the prices are fair, particularly for Boston. We left happy, full and looking forward to our return.

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Holiday Tea at The Boston Harbor Hotel

Hungry for snack shortly after our arrival at the Boston Harbor Hotel, we ventured down to the Intrigue Cafe. Our intent was a spot of tea and perhaps an appetizer to tide us over before shopping and dinner.

The hostess greeted us and asked if we preferred High Tea or "regular tea". Well High Tea, of course; it just sounded more fun (truth be told, we didn't know the difference). They asked if we had reservations, which we did not, and received a disappointing frown. It seems that High Tea is a tradition for Bostonians and tourists alike, particularly those en-route to the Nutcracker. There was a full house when we stopped by and we were nearly turned away. They explained that just enough pastries are cooked to accommodate the exact number of reservations, plus a few walk ins. And we were one walk in too many that day.

But alas, after pressing the manager a bit to please check if they might have any scrapes of scones remaining, he returned to share the news that another couple had cancelled. And so we were promptly seated for High Tea, which I now know was actually Afternoon Tea. There is a difference. Apparently Afternoon Tea is served at 4pm and consists of tea, pastries and finger sandwiches. It is more of a snack than a meal. High tea is typically served at dinner time (6pm) in lieu of afternoon tea and dinner, and consists of heartier fare served with the tea. Details, details. Since it is Christmas time, the The Boston Harbor Hotel avoids the whole issue by calling it a "Holiday Tea" in their written publications.

Whatever you call it, the Holiday Tea is a "must do" when in Boston at Christmas time. Families and friends dressed up in their "Sunday best" abound. Little boys sit politely in their ties and sport coats; little girls twirl by the Christmas tree, happily admiring their fancy dresses. The piano player, pounding out holiday tunes, is positioned in front of the floor-to-ceiling glass pained windows overlooking the harbor.

The tables are decorated with red, pink and white rose petals, china and menus tied with silk ribbons. The experience kicks off with glasses of Veuve Clicquot Champagne or Sparkling Cider, accompanied by fresh strawberries and Devonshire Cream. The little ones enjoy hot chocolate and cupcakes.

Eighteen loose leaf teas are available, each adult receiving their own pot; the tea strainers at each place setting are sterling silver. Just after the tea arrives, a three tier display of "delights" is presented, consisting of warm scones, finger sandwiches and delicate French pastries.

My favorites were the Shrimp and Avocado served in a crisp and buttery pastry shells, the smooth and light Egg Salad Mousse on tiny wheat rounds, the Smoked Salmon with Creme Fraiche and Caviar and the Pecan Bars. Other delicacies included Chocolate Chip Scones with Devonshire cream, Blueberry, Banana, Pecan and Pistachio breads, Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese frosting, miniature Caramel Cheesecake, and Smoked Chicken Salad finger sandwiches.

At $45pp ($25 for children), this more than simply an expensive "snack." It is an experience that is at once festive and extraordinarily relaxing (I would allow 1.5 hours). It will become our new holiday tradition (next time with reservations) before the Nutcracker each year.

O Christmas Tree - A "Type A" Crisis

Oh, what a beautiful tree!

My husband's desire for a majestic tree to fill the expanse of our high ceilings resulted in a 10 footer this year. My desire for a picture perfect "winter wonderland" tree resulted in a plump and perfectly shaped evergreen, with boughs down to the floor so it looks good even after the presents have been opened.

We found the perfect tree with tremendous ease - no six hour outing needed this year! Into the house, into the stand - no problem. The annual light crisis (I swear they are meant to be disposable) wasn't even that bad. A quick trip to Walmart for some new strands revealed plenty of inventory (unlike years past). Decorated in no time, I thought to myself, "I have this Christmas thing down!"

I so enjoyed those next few nights, arriving home from work to see the tree lit in all its glory. But my enjoyment was short lived when a mere three days later, while enjoying dinner, we heard the glass ornaments hit the hardwood floor as the 10 foot tree came crashing down from its precarious perch in the fancy LL Bean swivel stand. Water, ornaments, pine needles and lights were everywhere - except on the tree.

You see, the tree was not exactly as perfect as I described. The trunk was a little crooked. So in my quest for the top to look perfectly straight, the trunk had to lean a bit. I heard subtle creeks in the days leading up to the crash, but never imaged that they were signaling the fate before me.

Those who know me are probably having a nice laugh right about now. Yes folks, this represented a crisis in my otherwise stable and happy life.

If this is as bad as it gets, I'm in good shape. Merry Christmas!

Collective Wisdom

The votes are in.

Where would my readers bring an out-of-town foodie for just one meal in Southern Maine?

In a recent poll, earning 24% of the votes, Five Fifty-Five led the pack, followed closely by Hugos with 18% of the votes. These are my top picks as well. In fact, when I did have an out of town guest this fall, Five Fifty Five was where I made reservations. And nobody can deny the culinary creativity of Chef Rob Evans at Hugo's, where any serious foodie would be impressed.

Trailing these fine restaurants was the highly acclaimed Fore Street Restaurant, at 12%, and Bresca with 10% of the votes, a very respectable showing for a relative newcomer to the food scene in Portland.

Arrows and The White Barn Inn both received 8% of the votes, followed by Street & Company with a surprisingly low 6% . Cinque Terre and Back Bay Grill each scored 4% of the votes, while Robinhood Free Meetinghouse trailed with only 2%. Eve's at the Garden did not have any supporters, while Caiola's received one write-in vote.

We are fortunate to have so many extraordinary restaurants in Southern Maine. Thanks to all of you who participated in the poll. Hopefully the results will help guide those visiting the area - and inspire locals looking to rediscover the best of Southern Maine area restaurants.

Summary of "The Best of Southern Maine" Restaurants:

  • Five Fifty-Five (24%)
  • Hugo's (18%)
  • Fore Street (12%)
  • Bresca (10%)
  • Arrows (8%)
  • White Barn Inn (8%)
  • Street & Co. (6%)
  • Back Bay Grill (4%)
  • Cinque Terre (4%)
  • Robinhood Free Meetinghouse (2%)
  • Caiolo's Restaurant (1 write in vote)
  • Eve's at the Garden (no votes)


    1. Next poll...Sushi!

      Sunday, December 9, 2007

      Robinhood Free Meetinghouse - Georgetown, Maine

      The Robinhood Free Meetinghouse, located in an old church in Georgetown, is quaint, particularly when seated upstairs overlooking the pews. And the drive to Georgetown can be lovely, especially on a hot summer night with the convertible top down.

      The best part about a meal there is the biscuits, which you can now find in your local grocery store if you live in Maine, and at any one of the dozens of retail outlets, such as Saks Fifth Avenue or Dean & Deluca that stock Chef Gagne's creation. Request the biscuits upon arrival at the restaurant, otherwise, for a table of four, you are lucky if one biscuit graces your breadbasket. Speak up and your reward is a basket full of the 72 layer cream cheese biscuits in all of their glory. 250 calories each and a full 14 grams of fat, they are sinfully delectable. The Parmesan Herb are my favorite.

      The portions at Robinhood are generous, so a selection from each of the menu categories of Appetizer, Salad and Entree will leave you holding your stomach on the way out - especially after indulging in the biscuits. We seem to forget this on each visit, and with eyes larger than our stomachs, overindulge at each and every meal there. Our most recent visit was no exception.

      I started with the Black Sesame Crusted Ahi Tuna. Supremely fresh rare tuna was sliced thin, topped with delicately sliced scallions threads and served with wasabi, pickled ginger and a soy and ginger dipping sauce. The ginger in the sauce gave the dish a spicy kick; the tuna simply melted in my mouth. Aside from the biscuits, this was the best dish I have had in all my years of dining at the Meetinghouse.

      My three table mates all selected the Four Mushrooms in Puff Pasty, a blend of button, shiitake, oyster and portabella mushrooms, leeks, garlic, and a touch of cream, all housed in a delicate pastry shell. The earthy mushroom medley was enhanced by the touch of cream, adding the right amount of moisture to the morels. I would have added a splash of sherry and salt to the mushroom mixture while cooking, to help bind the flavors together, but the absence of those enhancements didn't stop my dining companions from finishing every morsel on their plates.

      I was intrigued by the description of the Endive Salad, served with balsamic glazed mushrooms, spiced pistachios, fried garlic and topped with a lemon Dijon vinaigrette. The endive, sliced into thin long strips, must have been prepared and plated earlier in the day, as it was ice cold and void of taste. The mushrooms were charred to the point of tasting burned; the pistachios were slightly soft and nutty, but lacked spice. This dish just had too much going on and the ingredients did not compliment one another.

      The potato leek soup, selected by my husband, would have benefited from some additional blending or a pass or two through a chinois to smooth out the potato pulp. Our friend's Caesar salad looked and tasted rather ordinary. The Spinach Salad with red onion, strawberries, almonds and balsamic syrup was a beautiful presentation, but lacked any "wow" factor. The intermezzo of blueberry amaretto sorbet was a nice blend of the two ingredients, even if it was slightly gritty.

      Potato Crusted Salmon was my choice for the entree, which consisted of a beautiful and thick piece of salmon, topped with a thin potato hash brown. When I found that the potato did not add anything to the fish, I removed it and enjoyed the fish by itself, even if it was then rather bland, despite the thin lemon butter sauce gracing the plate. The pile of Swiss chard remained untouched after the first bite revealed it had been long overcooked.

      My husband's Scallops with Grilled Mushrooms and Cold River Lemon Sauce was the "chef's choice" of the evening. Apparently the chef loves lemon. Lots and lots of lemon, as that was the overwhelming taste of everything on the plate, even disguising the flavor of the mushrooms and truffled parsnip puree. The Sirloin au Poivre with Horseradish mashed potatoes was overcooked and served with the same mass of Swiss chard that accompanied my salmon. The Butternut Squash Ravioli was the best of the entrees selected that evening, served with a sage butter sauce, Parmesan cheese and thick stalks of asparagus.

      Planning ahead, the four of us had ordered pumpkin spiced souffles when placing our dinner order. So when our waitress presented us with dessert menus after dinner, it was apparent she had forgotten the souffle order. She guised her mistake by telling us there was a large party downstairs and that it would be awhile before the desserts arrived. As it turns out, the respite between courses allowed our meal to digest a bit so we were ready to dig in when the souffles were presented thirty minutes later. The cinnamon creme anglaise that we poured into the pumpkin souffle was thinner than most that I have had, and effectively seeped into every nook and cranny of the souffle. This dessert was excellent, with the strong taste of cinnamon and dash of nutmeg complimenting the pumpkin.

      Service was sub par the night we dined, perhaps because we were one of the few occupied tables upstairs. We have received better service when seated in the main dining room on the first floor. Several times we found ourselves without silverware for the next course and drinks were not refilled in a timely fashion. A nice touch on the service front was that each course was delivered by at least two waitstaff so that all four of us were presented with our food at the exact same time, something you typically only experience in finer dining establishments.

      If you live in the area, this is likely the best dining choice locally. I'd recommend sticking with the appetizers, which are clearly where the chef focuses his effort and creativity. For others, it's not what I could describe as a culinary destination. Buy the biscuits at your local supermarket and save yourself the trip and expense of dinner at the Robinhood Free Meetinghouse.

      Friday, December 7, 2007

      You Decide

      With only 7 days left, there is still time to cast your vote. The poll located in the upper left hand corner of this blog allows you to vote on where you would take a serious foodie with one night to dine in Southern Maine.

      With Five-Fifty Five leading the pack, Hugo's and Fore Street are tied for second place, while Bresca and Street and Company are tied for third. Who will get top billing? You decide.

      Monday, December 3, 2007

      Caribbean Warmth (Nisbet Plantation, Nevis)

      If you are anything like me, now that the weather has turned colder, you are trying to figure out when you can escape to the warmth of the Caribbean.

      My favorite slice of Caribbean heaven is a tiny island called Nevis, only seven miles long, and five miles wide. I stay at the wonderfully relaxed Nisbet Plantation. I originally learned of Nisbet while vacationing at their sister resort, The Reefs in Bermuda. Doing my typical pre-trip research, I was impressed by the consistent "5 star" ratings on Trip Advisor - hundreds of them. Nisbet has had equally impressive reviews from Conde Naste, Frommers, Fodors - pretty much everywhere I looked. Not a negative review to be had.

      And once you stay there, you understand why. The property reminds me of a country club, with 36 rooms spread over the property in clusters of either two or four suites. All the Junior Suites have ocean views and all the rooms have plenty of privacy. I have stayed in all of the room categories, my favorite being the second floor Junior Suites closest to the ocean. The vaulted ceilings create a very open, airy feel, and the straight-on views of the ocean make the deck the perfect place to relax before dinner. I've done on-site property and room tours of the Four Seasons, and Montpelier Plantation Inn, and drive-bys of the other smaller places to stay, but prefer the pace, quality and size of Nisbet Plantation.

      Nisbet and The Four Season are the only resorts on the island with their own beaches. A beach is a must for any Caribbean trip I take. Having a "Type A" personality, I'm on the go non-stop. Rest is important, and that is the purpose of my Nevis vacations. Fortunately, there is almost nothing to do in Nevis. Sure, there are those ambitious types who hike to the volcanic peak (really? on vacation?), some shop in the tiny town and there are day trips to the nearby island of St. Kitts. My big venture each vacation is a snorkeling trip that launches from the Four Season's. After the 2 hours excursion on the catamaran, the ever-flowing rum punches and the snorkeling, I'm usually exhausted. And the rest of the trip consists of leisurely breakfasts at Coconuts (the open-air restaurant overlooking the pool and beach), a couple of hours of reading in the hammock on the beach, lunch at the Sea Breeze Beach Bar, a nap in the hammock and afternoon tea at the Great House (if I can muster the strength to walk the Avenue of the Palms). Sometimes it's just easier to have champagne on the beach and watch the sunset.

      And then dinner - prepared by Chef Tony. One of the highlights of the trip and what keeps me coming back. Other than Grande Case in St. Martin, the Caribbean is not known for its cuisine. So when I discovered Chef Tony at Nisbet, I was pleasantly surprised. A french trained sushi chef, his nightly fresh fish preparations typically include wonderfully delicate french sauces. A few entrees featured on the Nisbet website include Pan Seared Local Snapper with Okra Polenta and Tomato Ginger Broth, Cajun Dusted Tender Chicken Breast with Traditional Peas, Rice with Nisbet Virgin Sauce, and Char-Grilled Peppercorn Crusted Filet Mignon with Sweet Corn Whipped Potatoes and Wild Mushroom Sauce. Violet (our favorite member of the staff at Nisbet) always tells him when we have arrived so he can incorporate sushi into the menu.

      Chef Tony needs his rest though, so on Thursday night he takes the night off and the beach comes alive at the Seafood BBQ and Manager's Rum Punch Party. A poolside buffet of salads and side dishes accompany the freshly grilled shrimp, grouper, marlin, mahi mahi and other fish caught that day. Afterwards there is dancing on the beach to the sounds of a local West Indian band. I always try to arrive on Thursdays, as there is no faster way to forget the stress and cares of everyday life than at this party, attended by locals and visitors alike.

      At Nisbet, the members of the staff immediately learn your name, remember your preferences, and treat you like family. I discovered an allergy to conch on my last trip and the entire resort was on alert to ensure that conch was not used as an ingredient in any dish I ordered. Discovering my husband's preference for Keemun tea one afternoon at the Great House, Violet ensured they had it down at Coconuts for breakfast each morning thereafter. Service like that is hard to find anywhere.

      My general rule of thumb is not to return to the same vacation spot twice, preferring to try something new. But the value you find at Nisbet is unbeatable when compared to similar properties in Turks & Caicos, St. Martin, Anquilla, St. Barth's and other islands I've either been to or researched. Breakfast and dinner are included in the price and in January and March they run a special where the seventh night is free. Dollar for dollar, I haven't found any better value, when you consider the quality of the resort, beach and the cuisine.

      With that said, I have not booked my Caribbean escape for this year and I would love to hear from you if there is a spot you think I should check out. My criteria: the resort must have its own beach, the island must be relatively safe (I don't care for islands where armed guards on the beach are necessary), and I prefer an island that is on U.S. currency (considering the weak dollar at the moment). I'm not into the "corporate feel" of chain hotels, and typically prefer smaller boutique resorts. And it has to be warm in February!

      Where do you think I should go? Do you have a favorite destination? Or have you heard of one you think I should check out? If so, please let me know by leaving a comment below.

      In the meantime, if you live in the Northeast, enjoy this first blast of winter that arrived on our doorstep last evening!