Itchin' for a Bagel? Try Scratch - South Portland, Maine

While planning my Christmas menu, I was lamenting the lack of really good bakeries in southern Maine - the kind with fancy tortes and cakes. Sure there's Two Fat Cats - which I love - but they have a limited selection of baked goods, and there are only so many times I can serve the Red Velvet or Coconut Cake to my guests. Don't get me wrong, I think their model of "do a few things and do them well" is admirable. And I'll keep going back for my summer Blueberry and Thanksgiving pies, but when I want something a bit more fancy, I need an alternative.

I asked friends and colleagues for bakery recommendations; none were thrilled with the selection in Southern Maine. Someone suggested that I check out the European Bakery (Route 1 Falmouth) - which I did. Their cake and torte menu was extensive, but I was disappointed with the greasy, "Crisco-like" taste of the cupcakes we tried.

While picking up some goodies at The Cheese Iron in Scarborough, Jill (one of the owners) mentioned that I should check out Scratch Bakery in Willard Square for their amazing bagels. I had heard of Scratch before...Erik used to serve their baguettes at Ladle. Finding ourselves in the neighborhood a few weeks ago, we finally stopped by Scratch. I knew it was my kind of place the moment I walked in the door. A dozen different types of large, plump bagels sat on the table next to the door. Next to the bagels were thick, square slices of home-made pizza.

Next my eye settled on the selection of fine wines - including several '04 Pinot Noirs from Mendocino (very difficult to find) - they even had one of my favorites, Patz & Hall. Unfortunately, the wines are stored in front of a large plate glass window, allowing the sun to bake the wine (not good), so the quality of what you will find when you uncork a bottle is questionable. Skipping the wine, we took our bag-full of bagels to the counter, where row upon row of cupcakes, cookies and pastries were begging to be bought. We settled on a simple chocolate cupcake with butter cream frosting.

Back in the car, we immediately devoured the moist cupcake, savoring the rich butter cream frosting. We tried to resist the bagels but finally had to give in. Soft-in-the-middle, crunchy on the outside, they are almost as good as H&H (those from New York know what I'm talking about) - definitely the best bagels I've had in Maine by far. They were just as enjoyable the next day with breakfast. The baguettes, served at many Portland-area restaurants, are equally delicious, more soft, sweet and dense than those at Standard.

Many neighborhood establishments are beloved by the locals because of the convenience, but not really worth the trip if you have to drive. Not so with Scratch Bakery. How fortunate Willard Beach and surrounding South Portland and Cape Elizabeth residents are to have it so close by, but for others, it is absolutely worth the trip.