Rachel's L'Osteria - Portland, Maine

Rachel's L'Osteria occupies a former barber shop in a strip mall on Woodford Street (Portland, Maine). Upon our arrival, we were informed that our table was not yet ready and were invited to have a seat at the bar. Unfortunately, during the 15 minutes that we spent waiting for our table, there was nobody tending bar. So instead of relaxing with a glass of wine, we spent the time looking for somebody - anybody - to waive down and take our wine order. We tried our best to stay out of the way of the owner and his helper scurrying by with hot plates, dodging the patrons approaching them because they were tired of waiting at their table for someone to take payment for their meal. Still, we remained optimistic about the evening, as the tiny and quaint neighborhood restaurant smelled wonderful.

While we had been waiting for our table, we noticed that the wine was stored next to the gas fireplace and the hot kitchen, so when we were finally seated and had an opportunity to order a bottle of wine, we were a bit concerned about the quality once uncorked. But when our bottle of 2004 Bryon Santa Maria ($36) arrived, it was very cold. So cold, in fact, that the nose was full of berry, but the taste was rather dull; the temperature was masking much of the flavor of the wine. To his credit, our server replaced the small wine glasses on the table with beautiful, large, thin rimmed ones, perfect for the Syrah. Once the wine had warmed to an appropriate temperature, it opened up beautifully.

To start, we shared a bowl of the Soup of the Day - a hearty stew of vegetable broth, egg noodles, carrots, kale, olive oil and an abundance of Parmesan cheese - that had been simmering for hours, as evidenced by the soft vegetables and perfectly melded flavors. This dish was the highlight of our meal.

Dense, fresh bread, made on-premise is available upon request - though we had to ask several times before it was brought to the table. Once we devoured the bread, the basket was quickly whisked away without an offer for more. This experience reminded me of Finch's in Falmouth where bread - Irish Soda - is also rationed each night; they offer only a few finely sliced pieces, regardless of the number of people at the table.

My husband selected the appetizer special of the evening: Crab Cakes. A classic version, the cakes were moist, though a bit fishy tasting. The accompanying sauce, a combination of mayonnaise, tomato and vinegar, was a tart and creamy contrast to the cakes. My salad was comprised of arugula and romaine lettuce, topped with caramelized onions, warm pancetta, Parmesan cheese and a lemony dressing. Surprisingly, the hot toppings did not wilt the crisp greens, a testament to the speed at which the dish was made and brought to the table (the hot ingredients did not sit long on the salad) - and the ultra fresh greens they managed to find this time of year. Though I had asked for the pancetta to be held from my salad, it was not. I decided to pick it off the greens rather than ask the server to have the salad re-made, considering the difficulty he was already having meeting the demands of the patrons in the tiny restaurant.

A rather basic Italian menu, for my entree I selected the Penne with Broccoli, White Beans and Shrimp (a substitution request they easily accommodated instead of the chicken normally served with the dish). Unfortunately, the only edible portion of my meal was the plump and perfectly cooked shrimp sitting atop the pasta. The bowl holding the penne, broccoli and white beans was filled nearly to the rim with olive oil, saturating the ingredients.

Olive oil - particularly the well aged extra virgin variety - can greatly enhance many dishes, though the chefs that douse food in olive oil as a cooking technique are missing the mark. I have a similar issue with The Front Room where olive oil is also overused.

My husband fared only slightly better with the special of the evening, a Tuscan Fish Stew served over Risotto in a Tomato Saffron Broth. The broth was piping hot, a nice accompaniment to the giant scallops, mussels, shrimp and salmon. Unfortunately, the risotto was inedible, overcooked and starchy.

Though we ordered the chocolate pudding for dessert, we were presented with the Chocolate Mousse instead. A dense version, the consistency of ganache, it was filled with miniature white chocolate chips and topped with whipped cream.

As I've written in past posts, a lot can be forgiven from a neighborhood eatery. To have restaurant within a short walk or drive from your home, where you feel comfortable and everyone knows your name, is something for which we all long. Rachel's has the homey, neighborhood restaurant kind of feel, small, warm and inviting. It's the kind of place that when you look in from the sidewalk, you are drawn inside. Once inside, however, it is a disappointment, with prices to match. Our meal, without tip was $150, which I would expect to pay in downtown Portland - and what I do pay to dine at such fine dining establishments as Hugo's and Five Fifty-Five.

Neighborhood restaurants, serving average comfort food, certainly have a place in our local communities, but to charge the prices that Rachel's does, they should, at the very least, hire professional waitstaff.