Bandaloop - Kennebunkport

Located at 2 Dock Square in Kennebunkport (upstairs and behind Abacus), Bandaloop is a place with a homey, "locals-prevail" vibe, and it was packed with such on the Saturday night we dined.

We had a 7:45 reservation; we were seated at 8:15. To kill time, one would normally sidle up to the bar, but the bar was full and it was standing room only. Problem was, the only place to wait was by the hostess stand, at the entrance to the kitchen, or hovering over diners at their tables.

We tried numerous times to make eye contact with the waiters and waitresses scurrying by, hoping someone might pour us a drink to enjoy as we waited. Finally my husband garnered the attention of the bartender who showed us some mercy and served us a Shipyard Thumper and glass of Chardonnay.

As we enjoyed our drinks at an empty two-top table next to the bar, my husband asked the hostess if we could dine at that table. Apparently the hostess only uses a pen to associate reservations with tables, and wasn't empowered to deviate from that which was was written on the floor plan -- so if you have the unfortunate luck of waiting for the party to leave your designated table, don't bother to suggest the other empty tables at which you might be seated.

Once seated at our designated table, our server was oh-so-chipper. We ordered a glass of School House Red, an '04 Zin from Paso Robles (intensely spicey - a classic Zin) and a, '04 Longhorn Cab from Mendocino. Tastes were not an option; full glasses arrived at our table. Fortunately, both wines were fantastic, particularly the Zin with its intense peppery finish.

Bread is house-made at Bandaloop, though we had to wait a good 20 minutes after being seated for it to arrive at our table. And when it did, there was far too much baking soda used in the preparation. It was served with average quality olive oil.

Duo chef team Scott and Jason prepare American cuisine with a strong Asian influence. Many vegan and vegetarian options are available. We ordered the shrimp cakes and egg rolls for our appetizer selections. The Shrimp Cakes were topped with a lime-tamari glaze; piping hot and crisp from light pan frying, they were outstanding. The Egg Rolls were uniquely prepared, filled with red onion, walnuts, spinach, Gorgonzola cheese and served with a port wine reduction sauce for dipping. They sound like they would be heavy and rich, but they were the opposite. Lightly fried, the ingredients within the wrapper existed in perfect harmony and oozed out of the crisp exterior after they were cut into two. We devoured every morsel of these appetizers.

For my entree, I chose from the "Center of the Plate Selection". Choose from several fish and beef options, tofu, chicken or pork, and pair with one of the half dozen sauces available. I opted for the "Seven Grilled Shrimp" with Thai Green Curry Sauce. For $1 each, you can try a side of any of the other sauces available; I chose the Pistachio Cilantro Pesto, which was far too sweet for my taste, so I quickly set it aside so that I could enjoy my curry. Large grilled shrimp (exactly 7 of them, as described on the menu) were set upon a vegetable medley of broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, red peppers, spinach, carrots and red onion, all perfectly sauteed, served with a saffron rice and set in a creamy curry broth that was flavorful without being overly spicy.

My husband fared equally well with his choice of the Panko Encrusted Haddock with Avocado Tomato Salsa, a special that evening. The fish was fresh and perfectly cooked. The avocado was ripened to perfection before it was diced and mixed with tomato chunks. The same vegetable medley that accompanied my shrimp was served as a side with his fish and saffron rice.

Reasonably priced (dinner before tip was $76), service was lacking. There were long waits between courses, there was no offer to refill our bread basket, my husband's water glass had caked on debris and when he asked for another, was given a deep sigh, but no apology. Though I was tempted with the dessert options, neither of us felt like waiting another half hour for our order to be taken and for it to be delivered, so we passed.

Eclectic is the best way to describe the atmosphere at Bandaloop. Set in a rustic barn, there is seating on two levels. Downstairs dining might feel a bit hectic, with the bright light from the cooler, the chefs cooking behind the counter, the waiters bustling by, and the overflow crowds from the bar brushing up against diners trying to enjoy their meals. Upstairs it is a bit more mellow, and warmer (ask for upstairs dining if you go there in the winter).

Music playing ranged from Grateful Dead to Elvis to Bob Marley. Random, mismatched tablecloths and napkins adorned the tables, funky lanterns hung from the ceiling, and a "I found it at a rummage sale" type decorations, with no particular theme, abound. The restaurant reminds me of something you'd see at a ski resort, a place where college kids might hang out after a day on the slopes. Laid back with less than optimum service levels, it is the last place you'd expect to find well executed dishes.

Service and atmosphere weigh heavily into my decision as to where to dine and I wasn't impressed with either at Bandaloop, so likely I won't return, despite the excellent fare.