Emilitsa - Portland, Maine

After a recent wine tasting event at Black Cherry Provisions in Falmouth, going home to cook was the last thing I felt like doing. In the mood for something different, we decided to try Emilitsa, Portland's new Greek restaurant, located at 547 Congress Street.

There was not a sign outside the restaurant, as Emilitsa had been open less than a week the night we dined. Consequently, we drove by the restaurant twice before I spotted flickering candles on tables in a storefront that had never before caught my eye. Inside Emilitsa, the decor is hip; whitewashed brick walls softly lit, cool art, sealed butcher block tables, and a funky bar lit with glowing red hanging lights. We knew we were in good company when we spotted Chef Steven Corey and his wife Michelle (owners of Five Fifty-Five), enjoying dinner on their night off. I think it is wonderful that our local chefs patronize, support and celebrate the success of each others' restaurants.

I consider myself fairly well-versed in California wines, but was at a loss with the selection of only Greek wines. Luckily our waitress had excellent knowledge of the featured wines and directed us to two full bodied reds, which she allowed us to taste before committing to a full glass. The first, an '05 Palivou Nemea was comparable to a Red Zin - complete with a peppery finish. The Domain Foivos "Myesis" was a more mellow red, dry, with only a hint of spice.

Our waitress (Jenny) surprised us with a treat from the kitchen, a chilled potato garlic puree served with grilled Standard baguette slices topped with high quality unfiltered olive oil, parsley and lemon. We munched away happily as we perused the menu. Still in the midst of a "soft opening", Emilitsa is serving a "preview" menu, featuring a dozen or so appetizers and only four entrees. Decisions, decisions...numerous appetizers appealed to us, and with assistance from Jenny, we settled on the Spanikopita and the trio of dips served with pita.

Thin layers of buttery, light and flaky phyllo dough held a blend of spinach, feta and dill to create the delicate Spanakopita triangles. Our trio of dips included traditional tzatziki (blended cucumber and yogurt) which made a fabulous dip for the Spanikopita, a red caviar "hummus" type dip (my favorite), and a chunky eggplant, tomato and herb mix, similar to a bruschetta. All were served with thick, warm, doughy pita bread from Greece.

My husband ordered the restaurant's only Grecian beer, called Mythos, to enjoy with his entree of Free Range Chicken, marinated in lemon, olive oil, oregano and garlic. A bit overcooked, it was flavorful but dry. The grilled potato wedges were excellent, crisp and golden on the outside, yet soft on the inside and wonderful when dredged in the olive oil, lemon and parsley on the plate.

I wanted to try something different than my husband, but the three remaining entrees on the preview menu were meat based; I was hoping for a veggie option. The waitress, after checking with Demo, proactively offered to have the chef create a dish that was not on the menu. The resulting vegetarian entree featured grilled yellow zucchini, eggplant, scallions, red onions, olives, feta cheese, fresh lemon juice and a fabulous unfiltered olive oil (from Greece); it was creative and flavorful.

We managed to save just enough room to share the baklava, a dessert made with layers of phyllo, walnuts, and sweet honey. The chef is smart to portion this dessert very small, as it is so rich and sweet.

Service at Emilitsa is excellent, attentive without being intrusive. We particularly liked that with each course, the silverware was cleared and replaced. The chef attempts to use all organic ingredients, many are shipped directly from Greece. Soon (perhaps at the time you are reading this), they plan to add fish to their menu - caught daily in the Mediterranean - and within 24 hours on the tables of Emilitsa diners.

John would be wise to install a double door before too much time passes. Similar to the problem we've experienced at Ribollita, each time the door opens, diners in the front dining room and bar are blasted with cold air, diminishing the enjoyment of the experience immensely. My advice to others is to request a table in the rear of the restaurant to avoid this issue until it is rectified.

Restaurants typically fumble during the initial weeks and months of opening their doors; not the case with Emilitsa. Although more expensive than the two other Greek restaurants in town, the service and quality of food match the price point. My husband and I each had two drinks, an appetizer, entree and split a dessert for $95.

Our expectations were exceeded on the night we dined; we were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the food, the exceptional service and the upscale decor. We look forward to our return.