Kaiyo - Islamorada

Relax in the Florida sunshine by day, and enjoy the abundance of fresh, local fish by night. These were the two primary objectives of our stay in Islamorada. And how better to sample the latter than in the form of sushi?

Having read mixed reviews about the service at Kaiyo, we nearly skipped this eatery. Fortunately, we were in the mood for a break from the heavier French meals we had been enjoying on vacation, and decided to take a chance at Kaiyo.

The restaurant is located at 81701 Old Highway Road; the two story purple exterior can easily be spotted from Route 1. Inside we found tile Mosaic on the walls and riverstone floors at the entrance. Lively and loud, the restaurant was filled with a mix of locals and tourists of all ages.

We were promptly greeted and seated at a cozy corner booth that was intimate and perfect for people watching. Warm towels to wash our hands were offered, followed by the delivery of complimentary crispy rice chips with mango and black bean salsa. Our waiter was pleasant and knowledgeable about the wines, sakes and menu items.

Our first appetizer was the Yellowfin Tuna Tatiki dish. Sushi grade tuna was rolled in cracked black pepper, then seared and sliced so thin, it could be cut with a single chopstick. It was served with a sesame-soy dipping sauce, along with wasabi, pickled ginger and a seaweed salad.

The Kikusui Junmai Ginjo Sake was an elegant and smooth accompaniment to the assortment of sushi and specialty rolls that we selected. Our favorite - and Kaiyo's signature item - was the Key Lime Lobster Roll. Tempura fried Florida lobster with key lime essence and hearts of palm was wrapped in seaweed and sticky rice to create the most spectacular roll I've tasted. A close second was the Islamorada Roll, featuring yellowfin tuna, mango and avocado. The sweet mango superbly contrasted the spicy wasabi and salty soy sauce.

Wahoo - my favorite white fish - simply melted in my mouth. The Big Eye tuna (flown in daily from Hawaii), salmon, eel and yellowfin sushi were all of the highest quality. The local stone crab, simply presented in a seaweed wrapper, was stunningly fresh.

For those who enjoy sushi, Kaiyo is a "must" when visiting the Florida Keys. The execution of our meal - both the food and the service - was flawless. Expect to pay a premium; dinner for two was $147 before tip, well worth the price given the experience.