Pierre's Restaurant - Islamorada

Prior to any trip we take, I always do my homework about the best places to dine. In Islamorada, the universally agreed upon restaurant of choice is Pierre's, at Mile Marker 81.6. For those unfamiliar with the Florida Keys, Islamorada is half way between Miami and Key West. Mile Markers are how the locals give directions, indicating how many miles one is from Key West.

Pierre's is housed in a white two story plantation house with blue shutters, set on an expansive white sand beach overlooking the Bay. The first floor veranda has dozens of oversized wicker chairs with comfortable pillows, an inviting spot to watch the spectacular sunsets while enjoying a cocktail. Inside, the decor is dark - plantation style - with rattan and wood furniture. If you are visiting from away, request a table outside on the second floor veranda to experience the Florida warmth. It is here that we enjoyed our first meal on the island.

We ordered glasses of chardonnay while we perused the dinner menu, a bright, clean, acidic '05 Charles Krug from Carneros ($13) and a well-structured, buttery'05 De Loach from Russian River Valley ($10). Full glasses are poured, without offering guests a taste before committing to the full glass. This is a huge pet peeve of mine, and while I recognize that it is easier and less time consuming for the waitstaff, it is not at all considerate to the patrons who may not care for the wine.

With our wine, we enjoyed the excellent bread, reminiscent in flavor of foccacia (olive oil and rosemary), with the consistency of a boule. It is made locally and delivered daily to the Restaurant.

The menu is extensive and filled with creative dishes, which made it difficult to choose our courses. I started with the Chilled Sweet Pea Soup, dramatically poured at the table into a bowl that held pea tendrils and thinly shaved slices of Pecorino Romano cheese($9). The bright green liquid was refreshing on the warm evening we dined; the pungent cheese was a sharp contrast to the sweet vegetable puree.

My husband's Shrimp Bisque ($10) was less of a hit. The center of the bowl held a chilled sweet Vermouth cream. The waiter poured the thin, lukewarm bisque around the cream and while the presentation was beautiful, the pairing of vermouth and cream was odd, the bisque would have been better served hot, and he would have preferred a thicker consistency.

We shared one of the specials of the evening, a Yellowfin Tuna Tartar with wakame salad, pickled ginger and wasabi soy sauce. The tuna was locally caught, finely chopped and melted in my mouth like butter. Super-fresh, it was best by itself without any accompaniment.

My husband's entree, the Pan Seared Snapper Filet ($35), was fresh from the Gulf and served with a roasted corn and jalapeno hash, set upon a decadent and rich grilled green onion butter sauce; the fish was topped with delicate and crispy fried onions.

The Restaurant's signature dish, the Tempura Lobster Tail ($40) consisted of two local Florida lobster tails, flash fried in a light tempura batter, set upon hearts of palm hash. Onions and peppers, sauteed in a sweet chili sauce graced the plate, as did dollops of soy glaze and wasabi crème fraiche for dipping. Accustomed to Maine lobster, Florida's local version is more delicate in texture and flavor, not nearly as rich or filling. The bartender paired an '06 Naia Spanish white wine ($9) with the dish, a superb selection that stood up against the fried lobster, sweet chili sauce and crunchy vegetables.

For dessert we selected the Baked Islamorada ($10), tart Key lime ice cream in a graham cracker crust, topped with meringue and set under the broiler just long enough to create a bronze hue on top. It was served with two sauces for dipping, raspberry and sweet cream. This was a dish of contrasts: the tart lime against the sweet graham cracker and cream, the frozen ice cream against the warm soft meringue. It was magnificent, particularly when paired with the creamy, tropical 2003 Chammare Jurancon Tradition ($10).

Pierre's dishes are classic French, with Asian and Caribbean influences. Local ingredients prevail in many of the Chef's creations, resulting in fresh, creative fare - the best I found in the Florida Keys. Watching the spectacular sunset from Pierre's second story veranda is the icing on the cake.