Chef et al - Portland, Maine

Newcomer to the Portland restaurant scene, Chef et al is a self-described "casual New England bistro." Located at 408 Forest Avenue in Portland, it can accommodate approximately 60 diners with a plethora of seating options: booth, bar, traditional tables, tall tables and couches.

We stopped in for lunch on the restaurant's second day open to the public. Not much of a looker from the outside, the camel colored stucco exterior is rather plain. Inside you'll find a tasteful, minimalist decor, with the same earthy colored walls, black Formica tables and tile floors.

The lunch menu includes a handful of appetizers, soup, salad and sandwich options. It is expanded for dinner to include three red meat entrees, duck, chicken, two fish (salmon and catch-of-the-day) and pasta, as well as several "sides." Dinner entrees range between $18 and $28; numerous wines by the glass are offered at the $6 to $8 price point, while bottles average between $20 and $30.

I started with a bowl of Butternut Squash Soup ($6) topped with creme fraiche and curried pumpkin seeds. The soup was silky smooth - completely absent of pulp - as though it had been passed through a chinois multiple times. The crunchy toasted pumpkin seeds nicely contrasted the creamy texture of the soup, while the nutty flavor perfectly complimented the squash.

Though I was advocating for the crab cakes, my husband selected the Cheddar Cheese Apple Turnovers ($7) as his appetizer. Beautifully presented and piping hot, the light, flaky pastry dough held just enough cheese to provide substance and flavor, but not so much that the turnovers became heavy and rich. The drizzle of apple cider reduction provided a tart contrast to the salty cheese and sweet dough, and made a delicious dressing for the side of mesculin greens.

My sandwich selection, the Grilled Portobello Mushroom ($9), was topped with sauteed spinach leaves, red peppers, smoked gouda cheese, and served on a kaiser roll. Though it was non-offensive, Blue Spoon's version, topped with blue cheese and red onion jam, is significantly more creative.

In contrast, the Vegetable Bread Pudding En Croute with Wild Mushroom Cream Sauce was wonderfully inventive and tasty. Pastry dough was filled with a quiche-like concoction made with day-old bread, eggs, butter, cheese, finely diced mushrooms and peppers, then baked. A medley of cremini, oyster and shiitake mushrooms in a scrumptious cream sauce created a rich, delicious accompaniment.

As with any new restaurant, Chef et al has a few kinks to work out, so set your expectations appropriately if you dine there in the next few weeks. The iced tea was cloudy (which is an easy fix), the temperature of the restaurant was too-cold for comfort, and the service was slow, though the food was well worth the wait. All of these issues are to be expected in the first few weeks of a restaurant opening.

One issue I find annoying at a number of restaurants is the lack of planning related to television placement in the bar. Chef et al's TV is situated for the whole restaurant to view. Ideally, it would be placed for viewing by bar patrons only.

One item to note: it appears that seating large parties might be a challenge at Chef et al. Aside from the booths (which seat four adults), the tables are all round - and also seat only four adults comfortably. For a party larger than that, I imagine they would have to awkwardly put round tables together. For that reason, I would keep your party small when you dine at this establishment.

Chef et al, with its affordable prices and creative bistro cuisine, should fare well in Portland. The refined and creative culinary skills showcased in our simple lunch at Chef et al will ensure my repeat patronage.