Dining in Bangor, Maine

The best restaurant in Bangor - hands down - is Ichiban, a/k/a "strip mall sushi." It sits next to the Rite Aid and a hair salon on Union Street in Bangor, but don't let the location fool you. The owners visit Boston several times each week, returning with fresh seafood to use in their nightly sushi preparation.

If you are not a sushi eater (the horror!), "non-chain" restaurant choices in Bangor are somewhat limited. Massimo's and the New Moon are the best "upscale" bets in town.

Massimo's Cucina Italiana recently opened at 96 Hammond Street, in the former location of the Courtyard Grille . "Traditional Italian dining done right" is their mantra, offering the basics, such as Linguini alla Carbonara, Rigatoni alla Bolognese and a selection of pizzas. It seems to be a Bangor "hot spot", attracting a younger, high energy crowd.

The wine list, all Italian, is adequate. Though when I asked for a full bodied red with mellow tannins, the waiter said they didn't have a wine that matched that description. Instead he brought me a glass of non-descript, non-offensive Merlot-type red.

We shared several appetizers the night we dined. The Shrimp Fra'Diavolo ($10) was a generous portion of juicy shrimp served in a zesty piccante tomato sauce. The Ruota Di Melanzana ($9), consisted of three slices of baked eggplant, topped with mozzarella and parmigiana cheese, and covered with Massimo's fabulous marinara sauce.

The Antipasto Freddo ($11) lacked any wow factor. The presentation of sliced of ham and salami, a few wedges of cheese, a small bowl of olives and a few slices of bread, left me underwhelmed, as did the soup of the day, a chicken broth-based minestrone ($6). Chock full of beans and vegetables, it should have been left to simmer a few hours more to fully meld the flavors.

My entree of Fettucini Con Gamberi ($16) was excellent. Al dante pasta was topped with succulent shrimp, sauteed in white wine, garlic and tomatoes. My table mates who ordered more traditional red sauce and pasta dishes complained that they were "all sauce and no substance." The chef at Massimo's does have a heavy hand with the red sauce, which I enjoyed, particularly given the quality of their marinara, though I understood their complaints when my friend scraped the sauce off her Lasagne ($14), pealed back the layers of pasta, and to her disappointment, found not a trace of cheese.

Massimo's has a fun and lively atmosphere, the cuisine is decent Italian fare, and the prices are quite reasonable. An alternative to Massimo's is the New Moon, located at 49 Park Street, features contemporary fine dining. Exposed brick, copper hoods and old wide pine floors giving this restaurant cozy character and charm.

Known for their Lobster Spring Rolls, these are a "must" when dining at the New Moon. The chef routinely changes the ingredients, keeping the menu fresh, while making local patrons happy with variations of their favorites. On my most recent visit the delicate, crisp wrappers were filled with a decadent lobster mascarpone cream. Everyone at the table ordered this appetizer and a hushed silence prevailed as we savored every bite.

The Grilled Romaine isn't nearly as well done as Chef Corey's version at Five Fifty-Five. At the New Moon, the greens become charred and wilty, exactly what happened the first time I tried to make this dish on the grill at home. The key is using ice cold hearts of romaine. Still, the salad is unique, and often creatively prepared, as it was on the night I dined. Topped with Stilton crumbles, portobello strips and drizzled with garlic vinaigrette and an apple cider reduction, it certainly isn't your boring Caesar!

I've fared best with the seafood entrees at New Moon, which are typically better than average, though not spectacular. On my most recent visit, the waitress talked four of us at the table into the Oven Roasted Duck Breast. While her description sounded delicious, the dish, itself, was disappointing. The duck was served atop a pasty white bean puree. Around the puree was a Oaxacan mole sauce, which tasted much like a thick version of Heinz 57 sauce. Neither complimented the tough, chewy and undercooked slices of duck. Most of us sent the entree back only half-eaten. Fortunately, several guests at the table ordered the Herb Crusted Haddock over shrimp and potato hash and were delighted with the quality and preparation of the fish.

A more extensive wine list than Massimo's, the New Moon features wines from California, Spain, France, Germany, Italy, Austria, New Zealand, South Africa, and South America, including some hard to find bottles. We enjoyed enjoyed a bottle of Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay, though I was tempted by both the Robert Sinskey Pinot Noir and the '98 Opus One.

Far from the "best of Portland" restaurants to which I am accustomed, both Massimo's and the New Moon deliver an upscale dining experience with better than average fare. New Moon is more creative, with an impressive wine list; Massimo's is more lively and hip. Both are among the best you will find in Bangor.

Photo credit: Matthew Gagnon