Evangeline - Portland, Maine

Evangeline, located at 190 State Street, opened its doors to the public last evening. The transformation of the space formerly occupied by Uffa is dramatic. A new bar creates a graceful transition between the elevated open kitchen in the rear of the restaurant and the formal seating at the front of the house. Oversized white linen-clad tables and vibrant red banquettes add to the transformation.

Opening night was packed at this French restaurant that seats 30, with eight additional seats at the bar. The music and decor give the restaurant a Parisian ambiance. The energy and laughter from the happy crowd created a sophisticated party mood.

The cork bound wine list was extensive and affordable. Bottles ranged in price from $20-$100, with carafes available for about half the cost of the full bottle. Five reds, five whites and a sparkling wine were available by the glass.

My husband ordered a carafe of 2003 Château de Cruzeau
Bordeaux, our new favorite White Bordeaux. This Savignon Blanc and Semillon blend was well structured, with a buttery flavor and undertones of citrus. It was so much to our liking, that we quickly requested a full bottle after the first sip.

Memories of Bandol came flooding back when the first "treat" from the kitchen was presented -- a salmon tartar with lemon oil. The zesty lemon hit the taste buds first, cleansing the palate beautifully for the finely diced, fresh salmon that followed. Cubes of focaccia were served with a creamy and flavorful butter which paired wonderfully with the salty bread.

The next "treat" was a white anchovy, set atop a roasted red pepper, and topped with an olive and chive tapenade. My taste buds were singing as the sweet, salty and tart ingredients combined into a harmonious medley of flavors.

My husband's Oyster & Leek Bisque ($9) appetizer, defied the traditional pureed version by keeping the mollusks intact. The salty American caviar nicely contrasted the buttery bisque as the finely diced leek melted in his mouth.

The Mushroom Veloute ($8) was earthy and delicious. The mushroom soup held a mixture of minced mushrooms, shallots and herbs which nicely contrasted the velvety broth. A silky '05 Steele Pinot Noir paired perfectly with this dish. The fruit forward wine had a hint of spice and almond flavors that set off the almond cream in the soup.

The standout dish of the evening was the Orange Duck ($23). A thin layer of fat was left on the seared duck breast. The exterior was crisp, while the tender meat was succulent and moist. Deep ruby colored cara cara oranges were caramelized to perfection and paired with a red endive to create a sweet and savory side. The citrus was subtle in the adorning sauce, sweetened by the caramelization of the winter fruit. This dish was impeccably executed.

I lost my husband's attention as he focused on the fresh cod ($19) which was the basis for a dual preparation. On one side of the plate a gently browned cod filet rested atop of a bed of Aubergine (eggplant) caviar. The other half of the plate contained a pan-fried brandade (a cod and cream mash) that contrasted nicely with the salty olive and sweet pepper topping.

For dessert we shared a Warm Financier ($7), an almond Madeleine-style cake, topped with buttermilk ice cream and a braised cognac-soaked pineapple. This sweet dessert was a perfect ending to the meal.

After witnessing many less graceful grand openings, I was impressed at the staff orchestration. Although you could sense their underlying nervousness at the beginning of the evening, they became increasingly more comfortable with their roles as the night progressed.

For those who enjoyed dining at Erik's former restaurant, Bandol, you will be pleased to once again enjoy his classic French techniques. While he has resurrected several of Bandol's specialty dishes, including the adventurous "Crispy Roasted Calf Brain," the menu is diverse and ripe with numerous innovative creations.

Chef Erik Desjarlais has combined the elegance of distinctively prepared cuisine, with a lively urban setting. An instant classic, Evangeline is a "must try" restaurant for foodies living in, or visiting Portland. A welcome addition to the Longfellow Square neighborhood, Evangeline is destined to become one of the top restaurants in the City.