Mims Brasserie - Portland, Maine

I've dined at Mims Brasserie countless times since they've opened, mostly for breakfast and lunch. While I've never been "wowed," I usually return on hot summer days when I'm seeking an outside dining spot in the Old Port.

Located at 205 Commercial Street in Portland, Mims Brasserie re-opened on April 7th under the direction of Scott Olsen, its new Executive Chef. Just four days after their grand re-opening, we dined at Mims for lunch, anxious to see what changes Olsen would make. We sipped Blood Orange Lemonade ($3) as we perused the lunch menu, which looked surprisingly similar to how I had remembered it from previous visits.

Deviating from my old standby, the Nicoise Salad, I opted instead for the Peppercorn Crusted Salmon salad ($12), while my husband selected the Tomato Soup & 1/2 Grilled Chicken Club ($9.50). We also ordered the Warm Chevre with Crostini ($8).

The chevre was mixed with garlic and herbs, and presented at the table in a warm cast iron pan with slices of grilled bread. The charred, sweet onion set atop the warm cheese added a bit of interest to the simple dish. Slightly dry slices of chicken, tomato, bacon and lettuce piled between thick slices of English toasting bread comprised my husband's Chicken Club. The tomato soup was a rather plain puree of tomatoes and cream. My entree, a mix of organic lettuces topped with slab of fresh salmon and chopped tomato, had far too much dressing - all I could taste was vinegar.

The chocolate cake ($9) looked amazing, but had a dry, crumbly exterior. The thick, creamy vanilla gelato, served atop the cake, was sensational and even better with the drizzle of caramel on top.

We weren't overly impressed with our lunch experience at Mims and decided to give the new Chef another chance. We dined a week later for dinner thinking that the Chef might showcase his talents to the evening crowd.

Similar to the experience I always had at Natasha's (which shared the same owner as Mims before Natasha's closed) everything on the menu sounded so much better than it tasted. The best dish of the evening was the Crab Crêpe. The gently sauteed spinach and fresh crab smothered in a tarragon cream sauce created a wonderful medley of flavors.

The soups were once again lackluster. I love Potato Leek, but Mims version lacked any hint of potato or leek flavors. My husband's French Onion soup was slightly better. Beef based, it held plenty of sauteed onions. More than half the bowl was filled by a thick slice of bread topped with wonderfully salty Gruyere and crispy onions.

I had high hopes for my appetizer, House Cured Salmon with Frisee and Duck Egg. The salmon was excellent and accompanied by sides of crème fraîche, chives and diced tomatoes. The frisee was topped with a house-made Parmesan crisp - but no duck egg. The waitress tried to convince me it was mixed in with the crème fraîche. I assured her it was not. She then said it was the style in which the chives were prepared, "duck egg" style? Really? She then went and checked with the chef who verified that he had forgotten the duck egg and would send one out. I ate as slowly as I could, but unfortunately finished long before the egg arrived. Instead of setting it upon some additional frissee so that I could enjoy it warm and oozing over the tart greens, he sent it out by itself in a shallow white bowl. And it was a regular egg. Not a duck egg. They deducted this dish from our tab.

I sent back my glass of Chateau La Roque "Cupa Numismae" Pic Saint Loup because it smelled and tasted like vinegar - though the bartender assured me (via the waitress) that was how it was supposed to taste. When I looked to see where the wines are stored, I noticed the bottles are hung in racks on either side of the hot kitchen, so it's not surprising that the one I selected had gone bad. I fared better with a glass from Chateauneuf du Pape.

The Italian bread served with dinner was bland and completely void of flavor. Overcooked, it was dry, crumbly and fell apart when we tried to smear it with butter or dip it in olive oil. It made me long for the scrumptious bread (and soups for that matter) that were once served in this very same location - back when it was Port Bakehouse.

My entree, a less-than-fresh halibut, was served over a Flageolet Bean and sherry cream sauce mixture. My husband's Sea Bass had also seen better days, but was interestingly prepared with a subtle carrot ginger sauce and side of potato lyonnaise.

Billed as a Brasserie, Mims fulfils the definition by serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. The price points are where they depart from the concept. Dinner before tip, was $111, not at all worth the price tag for this less-than-stellar dining experience.

The French cuisine, contemporary furniture. and golden oldies playing in the dining room seem like an odd mix in this upscale cafe. With outside seating on two levels and views of Casco Bay, the location is hard to beat when looking to dine on a hot summer day.

Mims shines at breakfast, serves an adequate lunch, and is a disappointment for dinner. If you are seeking well executed French fare, head for Evangeline instead, where you'll dine for less and experience cuisine that is far more creative and refined. If you simply seek an after work spot to share cocktails and a great view, then Mims fills the niche.