The Grill Room - Portland, Maine

Fresh from Vegas, with memories of Joel Robuchon still vivid, we stopped into The Grill Room for opening night. The restaurant is Chef Harding Lee Smith's first venture into the heart of the Old Port. His other successful eatery is The Front Room, on Munjoy Hill. While The Front Room is a causal neighborhood restaurant, The Grill Room has more of an urban steakhouse atmosphere.

Occupying Natasha's former real estate at 84 Exchange Street, the restaurant interior has been completely transformed. A bar occupies about a third of the restaurant, running along the entire side wall. Exposed brick, black ceilings, dark red walls and pictures diagramming various cuts of beef comprise the decor. The restaurant seats approximately 60 patrons, including the stools at the bar. Booths line two walls and help maximize space in the small restaurant. Dark hardwood tables, black Windsor chairs and wide pine floors complete the look. The open air kitchen in the rear of the restaurant is a dramatic focal point.

The Grill Room began accepting reservations at noon on opening day; the restaurant officially opened at 5pm. At 3:30 they received their liquor license. Good thing because the restaurant was packed with a boisterous crowd when we arrived at 7pm.

We were seated at a tiny table by the window. Cold air blowing on us created an uncomfortable temperature; we were freezing. If you're dining on a cool night, I would suggest asking for one of the booths when you make your reservation.

In an attempt to warm up, I ordered a glass of Long Flat Destination Pinot Noir ($8.50), Unfortunately, this restaurant does not offer tastes of wine and I had to send back my entire glass because it tasted like vinegar. I didn't see where the wine was stored, but I hope this was an isolated incident and that they have proper temperature-controlled refrigerators for their bottles. I decided to try another Pinot, the Fleur ($10) which is not a wine I would select again, as it lacked structure.

The wine list is fairly extensive, including dozens by the glass. Vintages are not listed for the majority of the wines - it would be helpful to have them added. Beers on tap are advertised on the window of the restaurant, though they are not listed on the wine menu. Our waitress pleasantly rattled them off and my husband selected the Dead Guy Ale from Oregon. Amber colored, with a malty aroma, the hops had an odd taste that he did not care for. He quickly ordered one of his summer favorites, the refreshing Allagash White, appropriately served with a lemon wedge.

Our waitress, Leah, was bubbly, knowledgeable and pleasant. She handled multiple tables with ease - always there when we needed her, without being overly-intrusive. She explained the menu which features Soups, Salads, Appetizers, Wood-Fired Pizzas and Entrees. For the more adventurous, there is an à la carte section where you can create your own entree, selecting the wood grilled meat or fish of your choice, a starch, vegetable and sauce. While we perused the menu and sipped our drinks, she brought us a basket of delicious house-made foccacia bread with whipped butter.

We attempted to order the featured Crab Bisque, but were told that it was not yet available. Instead we opted for the Maine Crab cakes ($11), Stuffed Mushrooms ($9) and BBQ Duck Pizza ($12). My husband selected the à la carte Tuna Steak ($19) with Potato Aligot ($4) and Roasted Mushrooms ($3). I debated ordering the Duck & Fettuccine with blue cheese, walnuts and roasted peppers ($19), but went with the Swordfish ($21) with Potato Gratin ($3) and Truffled Creamed Spinach ($4) instead.

Good steakhouses know their mushrooms, and The Grill Room is no exception. Perfectly roasted, the juicy mushrooms were filled with a combination of duck and blue cheese. The zest of orange was an odd addition to the otherwise harmonious flavors. The accompanying mesculin greens were perfectly dressed with a tangy vinaigrette.

I was surprised to also find orange zest in the crab cakes. Two thick cakes were set upon a bed of spaghetti that had been dressed in a celery root remoulade. While the cakes were wonderfully crispy on the outside, and soft and moist on the inside, the zest was just too overpowering for my taste.

The standout dish of the evening was the BBQ Duck Pizza. While we certainly did not need a third appetizer, particularly with the generous portions, I am so glad I let my husband talk me into ordering this pizza. Cooked in a wood oven, the dough was light, crisp and puffy. The mild queso fresco (mexican cheese) was void of flavor and didn't melt well, characteristic of the cheese. The sweet BBQ sauce perfectly complimented the tender duck and the addition of cilantro was just brilliant. I would return simply to have this pizza and the stuffed mushrooms.

The Tuna Steak was cooked to my husband's specifications, rare. The wood grill gave it a wonderfully smoky taste. I preferred it "as is," enjoying the sushi quality fish, though my husband dipped it in the accompanying Bordelaise, a rich brown sauce made with red wine and shallots. The Aligot, potatoes mashed with garlic, butter and cheese, was rich, though similar to the Bordelaise sauce, was served lukewarm. The roasted mushrooms were perfectly cooked, juicy and flavorful. His wine pairing, the Jan Kris Zinfandel from Paso Robles ($6.50) had the traditional Zin spice and cherry flavors, but an unappetizing antiseptic nose.

I selected the buttery Liberty School Chardonnay ($9) to pair with my seafood entree. It perfectly complimented the fresh swordfish, particularly after I covered it with the side of buttery Beurre Blanc. Despite the lukewarm temperature of the Potato Gratin, (layered sliced potatoes, cream and cheese), I devoured every morsel. The Truffled Creamed Spinach, served in its own gratin dish, was piping hot and wonderfully creamy, though it had been doused with too much truffle oil.

In the mood for chocolate, we decided to split the Fallen Molten Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Anglaise and blackberry Sorbet. The torte had the texture of a dry brownie and also contained an overpowering amount of orange zest. I began to wonder if Chef Smith owns stock in Tropicana. Fortunately, the sorbet, deep ruby in color, was spectacular. When I ordered a decaf cappuccino to accompany dessert, I was told they did not yet have decaf coffee. They do, however, have my favorite sparkling dessert beverage, Moscato D'Asti.

Interestingly, almost every dish opening night was served on giant oval platters, which were much too large for the tiny tables, and heavy and awkward for the waitstaff to manage. Perhaps the regular sized plates had simply not arrived.

If I hadn't been following the progress towards opening night at The Grill Room, I would have thought the restaurant had been open for years. There was none of the normal opening night nervous energy, the waitstaff appeared well-trained and confident, and the kitchen was appropriately staffed and had their timing down. Outside of a few cold sides, the opening of The Grill Room was one of the most flawlessly executed restaurant openings I've witnessed.

Serving only dinner currently, The Grill Room plans to start serving lunch mid-June. Seating in the nice weather will expand out into the courtyard abutting Tommy's Park. Given the location in the heart of the Old Port, I suspect they will attract a steady business and tourist lunch crowd.

The Grill Room is a casual steakhouse featuring natural raised meats and fish. Catering to a late night crowd, the bar stays open until 12:45, serving an extensive menu. Their à la carte dinner menu allows diners to mix and match meats, fish, starches, vegetables and sauces that meet their unique tastes, appetites and budgets. While the wood grilled beef and seafood are the Grill Room's forte, I will return for the wood fired pizzas, succulent mushrooms, affordable prices, and lively atmosphere.