Hugo's - Portland, Maine

The much-anticipated re-opening of Hugo's revealed a restaurant transformed.

The ceilings and the back wall of the restaurant are now painted a rich chocolate brown. The remaining walls are a warm honey wheat. Beautiful leather banquettes, dark lacquered cork top tables, and interestingly patterned cork floors are all part of the new decor. Long silk burgundy drapes separate the softly back lit bar area from the dining room. The sound of jazz plays quietly in the background.

The menu underwent a make-over as well, though loyal patrons will recognize some familiar dishes. Rob Evans' tasting menu lives on - available for $70 per person. An additional $20 buys you the accompanying wine pairing, though the wine by the glass selections are quite limited, making wine pairings difficult for the waitstaff. New to the menu is the selection of "plates" which are divided on the menu into "Cold," "Vegetable," "Land," "Alternative" and "Ocean." All plates are similar in size so that diners can experience multiple dishes, ordering as few or as many as their appetite warrants.

While we waited for our first course, we enjoyed the familiar miniature potato flour and buttermilk biscuits. Served warm, they were accompanied by a dish of soft, hand churned butter. Our waitress suggested wines to pair with our first courses, an '05 A-Z Chardonnay from Oregon ($7) and the '06 Airen Sierra Virgen from Spain ($6). The Chardonnay was beautifully balanced, with hints of both green apple and butter. In contrast, the Airen was light and citrusy.

My husband started with the Atlantic Flounder in the Raw ($14). The sushi-quality fish was diced and served atop a basil-mint emulsion with baby radish sprouts and crispy capers. This dish was refreshing, with a hint of citrus that was complimented by the accompanying wine. No single flavor dominated; it was simply a harmonic medley that culminated in an extraordinary gastronomic delight. Hugo's Lobster Parfait made my "best of 2007"; this dish is a strong contender for the 2008 list.

I selected the plate of Sauteed Asparagus Spears ($13) primarily because of the incorporation of fresh fiddleheads into the dish. Unfortunately, both the asparagus and fiddleheads were overcooked. A free range pullet egg (egg from a chicken less than a year old) was prepared three ways. The dollop of hollandaise, scrambled egg and whole yolk added richness to the spring vegetable duet.

The Shiitake Mushroom Consomme ($14), an earthy clarified broth, contained several creamy parsnip filled raviolis and a dash of curry oil. The Beet and Horseradish Risotto was far more bold - almost sensory overload. Crisp, tart tempura fried pink grapefruit, and pungent Capri (goat cheese), topped the creamy, sweet beet risotto. Though I am not typically a fan of rosé wine, the pairing of '06 Chiaretto Garda Classico surprised me by perfectly complementing the risotto -- enhancing the citrus, and standing up to the powerful cheese.

The Scottish Salmon ($20) was beautiful and fresh under the crispy skin. The accompanying red flannel hash contained diced sweet potatoes, beets and onion. The tiny "potato croutons," a sophisticated and lightly fried version of a "tater tot" were my favorite part of the dish, particularly when dipped in the Tabasco-saffron emulsion. The Atlantic Wolfish ($19), a firm white fish, similar in taste to Monkfish, was butter basted. The sides of braised fennel, Maine crab and artichoke created a subtle medley of flavors that enhanced the rich fish.

The Westfield Farms Goat Cheesecake ($14) was a savory ending to our enjoyable evening. Served with a raspberry coulis, white balsamic sorbet and walnut crunch, this dessert rivaled those served at Bresca (which I deem the best desserts in the city). Like each of the dishes that preceded, the combination of flavors and textures - sweet, tart, pungent, creamy and crunchy - existed in perfect harmony.

After my last visit, I cautioned diners that the portions were small and many diners complained of leaving hungry after spending $200+ for dinner. With the new small plate menu, a couple will be hard pressed to spend $200 for dinner. We enjoyed seven plates, five glasses of wine, tea, and cappuccino for $160. The "small plates" allow diners the flexibility of ordering as many courses as they care to, without being limited to the chef's choices and portions in the Tasting Menu.

Service levels have improved, though they are still not where they should be for a restaurant of this caliber. Pacing between courses was too quick, leaving the waitress little time to discuss, taste and pour our wine pairings before the next course arrived. Once we were issued our check, our waitress seemed to forget about us; we had to flag her down after 10 or 15 minutes to pay. When we were ready to leave, there was no one to tell me where they had hung my coat (my husband eventually found it on his own).

Despite the few remaining service issues (which can be easily fixed), there are even more reasons to return. The Flounder, Risotto and Cheesecake, Chef Evans' ever changing eclectic cuisine, and the flat screen TV that will soon be displayed in the bar. As Nancy English revealed, and our waitress confirmed, the television will showcase images of the chefs' preparation of the dishes and pictures of the local farms that supply many of the ingredients.

Named one of the best new chefs in America by Food & Wine, and a two time James Beard nominee for Best Chef in the Northeast, Chef Rob Evans sets the bar high for masterful eclectic cuisine. He is not afraid to take chances, mixing and matching flavors and textures with scientific precision and culinary prowess. The improvements made in decor and cuisine with the reopening of Hugo's reaffirms its position as one of the best restaurants in Portland, Maine.