Shibuya - Las Vegas

With upcoming reservations at Alex, Bartolotta and Joel Robuchon, we decided to dine on the lighter side our first night in Sin City. Since we were staying at the MGM Grand (I much prefer the Wynn), Shibuya for sushi was the logical choice.

The decor is dramatic, dark and sleek. The wall behind the sushi bar is a monolithic floor-to-ceiling LCD screen displaying superimposed geometric patterns that rotate through the color spectrum. Suspended metal artwork mimics a wave pattern above diners' heads.

Shibuya claims to have the most extensive sake selection this side of the Pacific. Bottles of sake are displayed in their “great wall of sake,” and sell for as much as $1,300. Our waiter was suggesting bottles in the $150-250 range, but I wasn’t feeling quite that extravagant and instead opted for the sake tasting ($25). My husband ordered a Koshihikari Echigo rice lager. Like a traditional pilsner, it had a balanced taste that stood up well to the complexity of flavors in our appetizers.

After trying three different sakes in my flight, we ordered a bottle of our favorite, the Kirin "Koshihikari" Junmai Daiginjo. Soft, refined and full bodied, it is made by milling rice down to 45%. The Sougen Junmai was a close second. With traces of peach and grape, it was well structured. The Nanbu Bijin Junmai Gingo had a distinct nutty flavor and was our least favorite.

The standout dish of the evening was the Kanpachi ($14) appetizer, one of their signature dishes. The garlic rubbed fish was extremely fresh. The black truffle oil and Yuzu citrus flavors were wonderfully predominate. The Shibaki ($15) was less interesting in comparison. A round tower of diced avocado was topped with tuna tartar; the addition of crunchy tobiko added a bit of peppery spice and contrasting texture to the otherwise bland dish.

Sitting at the sushi bar, we were able to watch the seven sushi chefs at work. The moving tentacles on the beheaded shrimp were a testament to the freshness of the fish this restaurant serves. The presentation of each platter was spectacular, with each item artistically placed and adorned with edible flowers. Ours was no exception. The Kabuto ($25), a tempura Australian lobster tail with cucumber, daikon radish sprouts, and shiso was not as rich and flavorful as Maine lobster. The sake was a perfect accompaniment to this roll, as it cut through the excessive saltiness, and rounded out the flavors.

Ryu ($19) was a modification on a traditional Dragon Roll. Freshwater eel, cucumber and mango were rolled in seaweed, rice and avocado. The sweet mango nicely contrasted the salty eel, though it was not nearly as interesting as the Islamorada Roll we had at Kaiyo.

We preferred the Bluefin ($13) tuna over the Big Eye ($11.50). The fat mixed in with the muscle in Bluefin gives it a bit more flavor, though the Big Eye was like butter and simply melted in my mouth. The extraordinarily fresh King Crab ($11.50) tasted like it was just pulled from the sea. Juicy, sweet and tender, it was our favorite of the sushi assortment.

We attempted to order the Green Tea Cake and Ice Cream with White Chocolate Mousse and Exotic Cremeaux ($10), but our waiter strongly suggested the Tiramisu instead. I was pleased with the waiter’s suggestion. Not your traditional tiramisu, this version was more of an espresso gelée. Topped with crunchy cappuccino pearls, delicate foam and cold cream, it was simultaneously rich and refreshing with a complex medley of textures and flavors.

Our waiter travels to Japan routinely to increase his knowledge about the food and wine he serves. He was well versed on everything on the menu and not afraid to give his opinion. I wish I encountered more waiters like him. Too often I hear “everything is excellent,” which can’t possibly be true. The waitstaff knows exactly which items are returned to the kitchen half-eaten, and which ones are consistently licked clean from the plate.

While Shibuya is a worthy destination on its own, it is a particularly compelling option when seeking a respite from some of the City's more elaborate and heavy meals. Fresh fish, artful presentation, an extensive sake selection, and hip atmosphere make Shibuya an excellent choice when in Vegas.