Alex - Las Vegas

When we found out that we were going to be in Las Vegas for business, the task of selecting the restaurants we would visit became of paramount importance.

Who better to seek advice from than one of my favorite local Portland, Maine chefs, Krista Kern (of Bresca fame). Having spent time in Vegas kitchens, she steered me straight to
Alex at the Wynn, describing Chef Alex Stratta as one of the best chefs in Vegas.

A celebrity of sorts, Alessandro
Stratta played the role of Iron Chef Italian on Iron Chef USA. He was a recipient of the James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef Southwest in 1998, and named one of America's Ten Best New Chefs by Food & Wine Magazine in 1994. Chef Stratta opened his namesake restaurant, Alex, at the Wynn Hotel In Las Vegas in 2005. Since then, Alex has received ratings of 5 stars from the Mobil Travel Guide, 5 diamonds from the AAA Restaurant Ratings, and 2 stars from the Michelin Guide.

We arrived early for our dinner at Alex so that we could have a glass of champagne in the lounge and enjoy the ambiance of the restaurant before engaging in the multi course dinner that would soon commence.

My husband selected a glass of Laurent Perrier Ultra Brut champagne which had an intense yeast nose. Smooth and buttery, it was a striking contrast to my florally and refreshing Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs. I order Schramsberg as much for the memories it evokes, as the taste. One of my favorite diversions when in Napa Valley is the Schramsberg vineyard for the wine cellar tour and tasting.

We admired the restaurant decor as we sipped our drinks. Warm and rich,with floor-to-ceiling windows and long silk drapes, the restaurant has a 1930's Parisian feel, with similarly themed music playing softly in the background.

Once we were seated at our table in the dining room, I inquired about the Chef's signature dishes. The waiter informed me that he was so well known for his short ribs that he took them off the menu because it was all people would order! He didn't want to be associated with a particular dish, preferring that his diners instead experience a vast array of tastes while dining at his restaurant.

We made our selections from the a la carte menu, choosing appetizers, entrees and desserts. We asked the sommelier to pair appropriate wines with each course, which he gladly agreed to do.

And then the gastronomic symphony began!

The first treat from the kitchen was an asparagus cream soup with lemon infusion, followed by a spectacular trio of tuna tartar, veal and proscuttio. The delicate and fresh tuna was topped with sesame oil and cilantro. The veal was extraordinary - deep fried, tender, and piping hot, while the deliciously salty proscuttio was wrapped around a thin and crispy breadstick.

Thinking that was the extent of the "treats," we were surprised to be presented with yet another platter of goodies. A silky artichoke soup, kampachi belly tartar that tasted as though it had been just pulled from the sea, a tiny cheese puff that had a surprisingly warm liquid cheese center, and a delicate puff pastry that contained a medley of earthy sauteed mushrooms and sweet caramelized onions. The Chef had some fun with the last creation, a miniature lobster "burger." A lobster claw, topped with roasted red pepper and lettuce, was sandwiched between a tiny sesame seed bun.

Our final treat was one of the standout tastes of the evening - Lobster and Foie Gras deep fried and set upon a piece of arugula. A fennel toothpick was used to thread the lobster, foie gras and arugula so that the trio could be dunked in the accompanying lobster broth emulsion. It was out- of-this-world and a definite contender for my list of Top Food Experiences of 2008.

Our appetizers arrived soon after the last treat. My Napoleon of Bluefin Tuna, Kanpachi and Osetra Caviar was stunning in appearance. Thin slivers of fresh fennel separated the layers of Bluefin and Kanpachi. A generous layer of caviar graced the top, while sprigs of baby cilantro adorned the plate. I suspect this dish is pre-made and refrigerated until it is to be presented, as it was so cold that I could not fully appreciate the taste of the ingredients. The last bites were significantly better than the first, as it had time to warm to room temperature.

My husband's Santa Barbara Spotted prawns with Ricotta Gnocchi was yet another standout dish. The shrimp were poached in chicken stock and served with roasted red pepper, Savoy cabbage, black truffles, and delicate gnocchi that melted in the mouth. The addition of sesame oil gave the dish an interesting Asian/Italian fusion flair.

My entree, crispy wild sea bass, served with garlic ravioli, basil puree and red pepper bouillabaisse, had a distinctively Mediterranean flavor. My husband's quail was wrapped in a thin layer of smokey, salty pancetta and served with sweet figs, tangy rhubarb and a creamy celery root puree.

While the wine that the sommelier paired with the sea bass did not enhance the dish, it was a spectacular 2005 Barbieri Syrah that comes from the Colson Canyon Vineyard in Santa Barbara - a vineyard owned by the master sommelier at Alex! Big and bold, it was one of the most full bodied red wines I've tasted. My husband put his dislike of Merlot aside and enjoyed his 2004 Winemasters Blend (55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet), which perfectly enhanced each and every bite of his quail.

The intermezzo, a refreshing coconut tapioca topped with a pineapple crouton, and finely diced melons and berries, cleansed the palate beautifully. I continued the coconut theme and selected the coconut crepes for dessert. A contrast of temperatures and textures, this dessert was utterly refreshing. Three powdered sugar-dusted warm crepes were served alongside a tropical fruit compote that was topped with coconut ice cream. My husband's malted Chocolate and Banana Napoleon was a spectacular presentation, featuring deep chocolate gelato and creamy banana custard.

Alex is sure to be named one of Gourmet's Top 50 Restaurants in America on their next published list. The cuisine is inventive French/Italian fusion. The service is flawless, sophisticated without being stuffy. I will undoubtedly return to Las Vegas on business at some point in the future and the one single restaurant I will seek out is Alex. If business does not bring me to the area in the near future, I will consider flying there simply to dine at this fine restaurant, a telling sign of a spectacular restaurant for those who know me well.