Le Bec-Fin - Philadelphia

My husband joined me in Philly at the end of my week-long business trip to the City of Brotherly Love. Never missing an opportunity to experience the best dining a city has to offer, we enjoyed our first dinner in the city at Le Bec-Fin, Philadelphia’s only Mobile 5 Star restaurant for many years. Chef/Owner Georges Perrie relinquished this honor in April when he decided to make the restaurant a bit more casual and fun. Le Bec Fin still ties with the The Inn at Little Washington as the longest rated AAA 5 Diamond restaurant - 20 years in a row. Located at 1523 Walnut Street, it has been a gastronomical destination since 1970.

In 2002, the restaurant underwent major interior renovations; everything but the elaborate and grandiose chandeliers was changed. The new décor is rich and elegant, with dark wood, gold cloth wall coverings and cream colored linens. The far end of the dining room has a theatrical presence, with a staircase leading to the second floor, and a dramatic curtained doorway through which wait staff emerge from the kitchen. Le Bec-Fin is most definitely a special occasion restaurant.

As we entered the highly acclaimed French restaurant, we were surprised to see Chef/Owner Georges Perrie sitting at one of the sidewalk tables with his wife. An institution in Philly, Georges has an intense presence; he is known throughout the city for his larger-than-life personality. Georges can often be seen storming the sidewalk between two of his restaurants, Le Bec-Fin and Brasserie Perrier, speaking in French on his cell phone, ensuring that everything is being done to his satisfaction at these restaurants, and the three others he owns.

Once seated, we were offered glasses of champagne. I chose the refreshing Georges Perrier Signature Brut Cuvee, made exclusively for him at a small production facility in France. My husband selected the Paul Dethune Grand Cru Ambonnay, a classic, fruity rose champagne. While enjoying our drinks, we perused the menu. Chef Georges Perrier recently decided to present an à la carte dinner menu; for years he only served his tasting menu. While many of the à la carte menu items sounded appealing, we opted for the traditional tasting menu ($140pp) with wine pairings ($70pp).

After placing our order, we were presented with an amuse bouche of crab salad with roasted red pepper and delicate pea tendrils, followed by our first course, a chilled white asparagus soup. This version featured a silky white asparagus cream broth poured over green asparagus prepared two ways: chopped and marinated in lemon juice and vinegar, and two sweet tempura fried asparagus tips. The soup was paired with a 2005 Austrian Riesling Vom Urgestein, Bergterrassen Kremstal. Most Reislings are too sweet for my taste, but this was more like a Semillion, full bodied and well structured, with citrus and mineral undertones.

The second course, a baby vegetable salad with truffle dressing, featured blanched purple potatoes, squash, carrots and white asparagus. The truffle in the dressing was a bit too subtle; it wasn't until the last bite that my husband tasted this key ingredient.

The next course featured sushi grade seared tuna served with a delicious English pea puree, and unusual hibiscus flower and honey emulsion. While I typically pair Pinot Noir with tuna, the sommelier chose a 2005 Domaine Saint-Amant Cotes Du Rhone. Its grassy, mineral flavor played perfectly off the honeycomb.

Our intermezzo, a Tarragon Champagne shot with Vanilla Bean, was one of the most interesting combination of flavors I’ve ever had – and so much more enjoyable than the classic sorbet that most restaurants use to cleanse the palate. Our waiter told us that one of the most popular former intermezzos was a Grapefruit Champagne shot with Pop Rocks. Remember those from when you were a kid? The stuff you were told not to mix with carbonated soda because your stomach would explode!?! Now that's 5 star dining!

The standout dish of the evening was the thinly sliced, roasted organic duck breast with fava bean and morel mushroom fricassee in a duck red wine sauce. In my opinion, there is nothing better than the combination of duck, mushrooms and red wine – this dish was spectacular, featuring all three. The sauce was so succulent that we requested more bread so we could sop up every drop. The duck was paired with a 2002 Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet from Burgundy. Slightly smoky, with an earthy, dry cherry taste, this Pinot Noir had a silky finish and beautiful berry color.

Throughout the evening, Chef Georges Perrie could be seen walking the length of the restaurant, speaking sternly in French on his cell phone. He stopped to visit our table and we showered him with praise for the outstanding dining experience he had created at Le Bec-Fin. He suggested that we visit his just-opened restaurant, Table 31 the next night. We explained that we had reservations at James on 8th , a restaurant whose chef had just made the 2008 Food & Wine Top 10 Best New Chefs list. He insisted we cancel the reservation and go to his restaurant instead, which he promised would be a fabulous meal. He then whipped out his phone- in the middle of the restaurant - and demanded to speak to the Chef at Table 31, telling him we would be there the following night at 7pm. I’ll post later on our experience at his newest restaurant.

Back to the meal -- the cheese cart was a site to see! The chef, having taking a liking to us, offered us the "VIP cheese" – a truffle sheep’s milk cheese, carefully hidden on the cheese cart for the restaurant’s very best clientele. The pungent truffle was fully infused in the semi-soft cheese -- it was spectacular! The triple cream cow’s milk cheese was the other standout. I order this cheese whenever I can, but never had I had it so creamy and delicious.

Even more decadent than the cheese cart was the dessert cart. Over a dozen desserts by Rocco Lugrine (Chef Pâtissier) were described in intricate detail, ranging from the Philly Cheesecake with caramelized rice puffs to Le Bec-Fin’s signature cake, Gâteau Le Bec-Fin, featuring layers of chocolate genoise soaked in rum and chocolate mousse. I selected four of the most chocolaty desserts; unfortunately I only had room for one bite of each. But I did devour every morsel of my husband’s prized selection, a savory strawberry, basil and mascarpone cheesecake.

I highly recommend the 7 course tasting menu with the accompanying wine pairing when visiting Le Bec-Fin. Don’t let the price intimidate you; you will likely end up spending the same amount ordering off the à la carte menu with a bottle of wine.

Le Bec-Fin is a gastronomic institution that must be experienced at least once by any serious foodie, whether you are visiting Philly or live within driving distance. The front-of-the-house staff delivered a flawlessly executed experience, gracefully transitioning between courses in classic French style. Even after 38 years in business, Chef Perrier continues Le Bec-Fin's culinary excellence, including the selection of a talented Chef de Cuisine, Pierre Calmels. Pride of ownership is evident as he strides through the dining room, ensuring a top quality dining experience is provided for his well satisfied patrons.