Natalie's - Camden, Maine

We headed up to Camden over the weekend to celebrate our 12th wedding anniversary. Just back from a business trip in Vegas, we were seeking something a bit more low key. An overnight stay at the Camden Harbour Inn sounded perfect.

After exploring the town for a couple of hours, we stopped back at the Inn and had a glass of wine at Natalie's before getting ready for dinner at Primo. While sitting at the bar, we started chatting with one of the Inn's new owners about some of our favorite restaurants. Accustomed to dining at Michelin 3 star restaurants himself, we felt immediately "in sync" with Raymond, having similar tastes in dining establishments. He told us a bit about the dining experience he has strived to create at Natalie's, including the recent recruitment of Lawrence Klang as executive chef. Klang was trained at Le Cordon Bleu L’Art Culinaire in London and most recently cooked at the AAA four diamond rated Fish out of Water Restaurant at the Watercolor Inn in Florida. We quickly decided to alter our plans, save ourselves the 40 minute round trip drive to Primo, and dine at the Inn.

It was an excellent decision.

Both the Inn and the restaurant have been completely transformed by the new owners. Red chairs, white linens, dark wood floors, and funky red lampshades create a dramatic decor with Parisian flair. French music plays softly in the background. The restaurant is simultaneously sophisticated and fun.

Our wedding day splurge was Dom Perignon champagne, and we vowed that each year we would celebrate our marriage with a bottle of the same. This year was no exception. A bottle was chilling beside our table when we sat down, per my husband's request. We savored the champagne while perusing the menu, which took some time, as most everything sounded appealing and it was difficult making our choices.

Once we ordered, we were presented with a "treat" from the chef, an asparagus and leek "shooter." A shot glass was filled with a creamy, chilled pale green asparagus puree topped with smoked trout and a sliver of radish. Refreshing and delicious, it cleansed our palate for the upcoming courses.

The bread basket contained warm slices of multi grain and sourdough bread. The bread was accompanied by soft, unsalted butter and a dish of olive oil that contained a splash of aged balsamic vinegar.

My husband selected the Thai Lobster Soup for his appetizer. The soup contained lobster tortellini, fresh English peas and chives. The pasta was house-made and together with the sweet lobster, simply melted in my mouth. A touch of green chili paste gave the soup a nice "kick" that did not at all overpower the buttery, yet delicate broth. We were not alone in thinking this was definitely a standout dish, as we heard numerous other diners exclaiming their delight with the soup.

I can never pass up Risotto and selected Natalie's seasonal version with wild leeks for my appetizer. Though not quite as unusual as the soup, I enjoyed it immensely. The creamy grains, caramelized leeks, salty Parmesan, sweet vinegar and hint of lemon and truffle oil created a delicious blend of flavors. Oftentimes when I order risotto as an appetizer, the portion is so large, and the dish so rich, that I am not hungry for my remaining courses. The portion size of this risotto was perfect, leaving me satisfied, yet with room to enjoy the rest of my meal.

After hearing our waitress rave about the house made gnocchi, we had to share an order as our second course. Served with maitake mushrooms, lemon nage and chives, this dish is a contender for my "Best of 2008 list." The gnocchi was creamy in texture, not at all gritty as other versions I have tried have been. The mushrooms had a wonderfully smokey taste and meaty texture, while the nage was buttery, rich and decadent, and had a slight kick on the finish.

To cleanse our palate, we were presented with an intermezzo of refreshing strawberry sorbet. The entree that followed, butter poached lobster lasagna with saffron, carrot, English peas and lobster jus was utterly amazing. The lasagna noodles were thin and delicate. The lobster was sweet and tender, and the spices subtle, so as not to overpower the other ingredients. This was a wonderfully light dish, no easy feat when cooking with rich lobster and pasta.

Our waitress told us that the chef was playing around with strawberry and rhubarb in the kitchen, and wanted to know if we were interested in trying his new creation. Of course we were, and Chef Klang, himself, presented the dessert at the table. A delicate Madeline cake was dusted with powdered sugar. Alongside the cake a slice of rhubarb had been poached in vanilla and was topped with strawberries that had been soaked in currant tea and strawberry juice. Pistachio slivers decorated the strawberries, adding a bit of crunch, while the scoop of anise sorbet added a contrasting pungent flavor to the dish.

The menu at Natalie's features an innovative twist on classic French techniques, combined with fresh local ingredients. The service the night we dined was flawless, refined without being stuffy. The courses were perfectly paced, allowing sufficient time to digest each dish, but not so long that we wondered when the next course would be presented. I can't imagine having a better dining experience anywhere in the Mid Coast; we will definitely return.