Bar Lola - Portland, ME

We figured it would be a breeze to get a table at Bar Lola on a recent Wednesday night. But when we stopped in at the Munjoy Hill restaurant, it was packed with locals. Even the bar area was standing room only. Clearly the Maine economy is not hurting as much as the media would like for us to believe.

Stella (one of the owners) greeted us warmly at the door, whisked our wet umbrella away, and offered us a drink while we waited for a table. I opted for a glass of the medium-bodied Eola Hills Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley, a favorite that I almost always order when visiting Bar Lola. My husband asked for a Belgian-style white ale, and while they don't feature one on their menu, Stella had a stash in the back of Bamberger Beisse Wheat Ale that she offered to share. Hoppy and light, it proved to be a suitable substitute.

Located at 100 Congress Street, Bar Lola has a cozy and contemporary interior. There is a small "lounge" just inside the door, consisting of couch, a couple of comfortable chairs, and a bar that seats a half dozen patrons. The rest of the space features simulated butcher block tables and black wooden chairs. Wide pine floors, sea green drapes, plum walls and lots of windows complete the look. For those seeking a comfortable place to dine on a hot summer night, the restaurant does have air conditioning, though the air from the open windows kept the dining room comfortable the night we dined.

Once seated, we decided to try the "Feed Me" multi course tasting menu for $40 per person. We told the waitress about food allergies and preferences and the chef took it from there, deciding what to serve for each course. A five course Prix Fixe menu is also available for $36pp and allows diners to select one item from each section of the menu. For those who prefer to order a la carte, the tapas-style menu features small, medium and large plates, salads and sweets. Prices range from $4-15.

We enjoyed soft cubes of bread and excellent quality olive oil while we waited for our first course, bruschetta prepared two ways. My husband's version consisted of slices of grilled baguette topped with fresh mozzarella, eggplant puree, and olive oil. Mine was a bit more creative, topped with baby red leaf lettuce, grilled radishes, sweet balsamic and lots of olive oil. I've never thought to grill radishes, but doing so reduces the typical pungent taste; they were delicious.

Piping hot English Pea ravioli tasted like summer. Delicate pasta was filled with fresh peas and a touch of lemon. Like the bruschetta it had a bit too much olive oil. Aside from that, it was outstanding. My husband's cheese-filled crepe was topped with a fried egg; olive oil and parsley completed a simple preparation of moist Bluefish.

As the waitress cleared our plates for the next course, she removed our dirty utensils and placed them on the table for us to re-use. Why servers do this, I don't know. We had the same issue on a recent visit to Conundrum.

Next I was presented with fennel salad topped with figs, edible flowers, and a light vinaigrette. My husband's salad consisted of thinly sliced yellow squash, red pickled onion, cubes of watermelon and Ricotta Salata, which tasted like a less salty version of Feta. Both salads were creative and light.

Because two of the items on the menu sounded so appealing (the salmon and the gnocchi), we almost didn't order the Tasting Menu. Fortunately, variations of both of these items were chosen by the chef for our next course. Atlantic Salmon, poached in olive oil, was diced and served with a curly frisee salad. The salmon was topped with flat leaf parsley and freshly squeezed lime juice that added a nice zest to the dish.

My husband's gnocchi was sauteed in olive oil and served with a grilled, diced zucchini and red pepper medley. The touch of white pepper and Reggiano cheese enhanced the dish, though the gnocchi was not nearly as divine as Steve Corey's version at Five Fifty-Five.

The common theme of too much olive oil used in the preparation of the dishes is not unique to Bar Lola. Neighboring restaurant owner, Harding Lee Smith, has the same heavy hand at The Front Room across the street. Skilled chefs know that a well executed sauce can add moisture, flavor and interest -- enhancing a dish and melding the main ingredients together. Olive oil can have a similar, though less interesting effect. Perhaps it is for the sake of expediency in the kitchen that olive oil is the preference of these two Munjoy Hill chefs.

A steamed fig topped with Maytag blue cheese and honey was served next. Though the flavors were wonderful together (fig and blue cheese is one of my favorite combinations), the fig was much too watery. It would have been better had it been grilled instead of steamed.

For dessert we shared a delicious warm crepe topped with peach, honey and mascarpone cheese. An utterly refreshing, basil lemon panna cotta couldn't top Bresca's version, but the savory basil/lemon combination was excellent.

Like Caiola's in the West-End, Bar Lola is a great example of a neighborhood restaurant, routinely packed with locals. You'll find more culinary skill at other Portland restaurants, such as Hugo's, Evangeline, Bresca, and Five Fifty-Five, but the value at Bar Lola is hard to beat.