Frog and Turtle - Westbrook, Maine

On a recent Saturday night we met friends at the Frog & Turtle, a "Gastro Pub" located at 3 Bridge Street in Westbrook. The owner, James Tranchemontagne, was the former Chef/Owner of Cafe Uffa (now closed), one of our favorite brunch spots over the years.

My friend had made reservations and we were promptly seated in a booth by the window. The atmosphere is "industrial casual" with exposed duct work, a neon Miller Beer sign hanging over the bar, and an eclectic mix of wooden tables and chairs. The center of the restaurant boasts several comfortable leather couches where patrons can wait for a table or enjoy a meal. Unlike the hip atmosphere at Local 188, the Frog & Turtle more grungy and pub like.

Out waiter was a bit out of sync with our needs the entire night. While pleasant and knowledgeable, he didn't appear at our table until 15 minutes after we arrived. He asked if we were interested in wine and we responded that we would likely order some with dinner. He automatically assumed that meant we didn't want any drinks and immediately launched into the dinner specials. When he finished the descriptions, he said he'd be back soon to take our orders. Fortunately, we caught him before he rushed off and explained that we did want drinks - just not wine - and placed our cocktail orders.

While we perused the menu, we sipped our drinks and munched on Italian bread served with soft, whipped butter. The menu is split between a 'Pub menu' with mostly burgers, pizzas, and fried appetizers and an 'Entree menu,' featuring soups, salads, appetizers, crepes, small plates and three entrees. I was puzzled by the menu, uncertain how many courses to order. While I was hungry enough for an entree, none of the three offered that night had appeal. Normally I would order two small plates and an appetizer, but the price points threw me off - small plates were priced in the $15-$18 range, typical entree prices for a pub style restaurant. As it turns out, the small plates should be renamed - they are anything but small!

For our appetizers, my husband and I shared the Grilled Shrimp Skewers ($10) and the Cajun Style Fish Cakes ($18). Our friends also selected the Grilled Shrimp and the Fried Calamari ($10). I thought the Grilled Shrimp, crusted in brown sugar, might be too sweet, but the addition of cumin and lime balanced the sweetness perfectly. The accompanying mango fruit salsa had a bit of tang, enhancing the char-grilled shrimp. This was by far the standout dish of the evening, though my friend declared his Fried Calamari- served over charred greens and tossed with a lime dipping sauce - some of the best he has had.

The Cajun Style Fish Cakes ($18), made with a combination of haddock, shrimp and salmon, were served over charred greens with a spicy creole cream sauce. As the waiter promised, the sauce gave the dish a nice kick. The combination of the three fish gave the cakes immense flavor; unfortunately, the cakes were thick and had an odd, almost doughy consistency. Everything is advertised as made fresh to order at the Frog & Turtle, but these tasted as though they had been pre-made and frozen.

I shouldn't have ordered the Arugula salad ($8), as I was already too full from the appetizers, but I simply couldn't pass up the fresh greens. This salad was huge, enough for at least two - if not three people to share and was tossed with orange segments, avocado, roasted shallots, and honey vinaigrette. The toasted sunflower seeds sprinkled on top were a fantastic addition.

For his entree, my husband ordered the Blackened Catfish crepe ($15), which was beautifully presented. The catfish itself was void of flavor, though the charred watercress gave it a smokey flavor, while the blend of hot sauce and garlic aioli gave it a wonderful kick, adding creaminess to the ingredients.

My friend's Beef Short Rib ($19) - a small plate - was huge. A mound of mashed potatoes was topped with another mound of short ribs that had been rubbed with a house-made BBQ sauce and slow roasted. She could only manage to eat about a third of the ribs and requested the remainder to be packaged to bring home.

My Poached Salmon ($17) - another small plate, was also entree size. Paired with greens that were much too bitter to eat, the fish was set upon jasmine rice and topped with a thick, sticky sweet pineapple ginger glaze that unfortunately, overpowered the taste of the salmon.

Dessert menus were presented and the waiter asked if we would like drink refills. I asked for a decaf cappuccino and was told that their espresso machine was broken; my friend opted for a cup of coffee. We were too full to each order our own dessert, which presented a dilemma. I was in the mood for chocolate, my husband wanted the Maine blueberry pie. Like a good husband, he conceded to the chocolate. The waiter, overhearing our discussion, brought him a tiny bowl of the blueberry pie filling - a nice touch, well received by my husband.

Flourless Dark Chocolate Torte ($8) was served with a deliciously creamy espresso anglaise, raspberry coulis, and milk chocolate pudding. It was a bit dry for my taste, and not as rich as I prefer. My friends thoroughly enjoyed their classically prepared Crème Brûlée ($6), topped with Caramelized Bananas ($1 surcharge).

The Frog & Turtle lives up to its self-description, "a neighborhood spot that has good fresh food." I particularly love that Chef Tranchemontagne is not afraid to add heat and spice to his dishes. You'll find greater culinary skill in many of Portland's restaurants, though the Frog & Turtle is a nice addition to the restaurant scene for the locals in Westbook.