The Front Room - Portland, Maine

On a recent rainy and cold Tuesday night we stopped into the
Front Room for an impromptu dinner out. It's been more than a year since we last dined at the Front Room. They don't accept reservations and on the few occasions we have called ahead or stopped in, the wait was just too long. Fortunately, when we arrived at the Front Room just before 7pm, we obtained the last remaining table; the place was once again filled with what looked to be a mostly local crowd.

The Front Room is a classic neighborhood restaurant, located on the corner of Howard and Congress Streets on Portland's Munjoy Hill. The decor is simple with a cement floor, wooden tables and booths, and a television positioned above the bar for viewing by the entire restaurant. The open kitchen provides a welcome diversion from the television for those seated facing the rear of the restaurant.

After placing our order, we were presented with rather dry slices of focaccia bread wrapped in a napkin and served with a mild tasting olive oil. Our appetizers arrived shortly thereafter, a Fish Chowder ($6) for my husband and a special of the evening - Squash Soup - for me. The Fish Chowder was creamy, but not gluey as is so often the case. The chowder held an abundance of potatoes, onion and fish, though it could have simmered a bit longer so that the fish had a flakier consistency. My well-seasoned Squash Soup ($4) was made with Hubbard Squash and was equally pleasing.

I selected the Duck sandwich ($10) and Spinach Salad ($6) for my entree. The sandwich held slices of crisp duck, fresh sage, goat cheese and sweet onion jam - all served on toasted brioche. The combination of flavors was excellent. The salad was large enough to be a main course and consisted of fresh spinach, sauteed mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, sauteed onions, and feta. Unfortunately, a much too heavy hand was used to dress these fabulous ingredients; the salad was oily and undesirable as a result.

My husband's Pan Fried Gnocchi with Mussels ($13) and side of roasted brussel sprouts ($3.50) suffered the same fate as my salad - both were drenched in oil. With less oil, both of these dishes could have been excellent, particularly the roasted brussel sprouts, which were far superior to the boiled preparation most often seen. The side of skillet cornbread ($5.50/pan or $1.50/piece) was excellent - moist and delicious. I suggest skipping the complimentary foccacia bread and ordering this upon arrival to munch on while waiting for dinner.

Even with the two drinks we enjoyed with dinner, our meal was only $53 - a relative bargain in Portland. While the comfort food-inspired cuisine is rather ho-hum at the Front Room, I can certainly understand the restaurant's popularity. It's the kind of neighborhood restaurant you can go and be completely comfortable. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly, the food quality is consistent, and the prices can't be beat.