Too Close to Call

Hillary or Obama? Pom's or Bangkok Thai? Some races are just too close to call. With only one day left, the competition is fierce between Bangkok Thai and Pom's. Together they are leading pack - far ahead of the other Portland area Thai restaurants - in their race for the title of Best Thai in Portland.

Polls (at the top left of this page) close at Midnight on Friday (2/29). Your vote could put one restaurant over the top. Choose wisely!

Sexy, Classic French

Ever have a chef call you the day before your upcoming restaurant reservation and ask if you have any special requests? I have. That's the day Bandol became my favorite restaurant. Chef Erik himself called to confirm our reservation and learned that I love tuna. He made me a five course tuna tasting menu.

On each visit, he made it so easy to slip out of work mode - and create a "this is going to be a special evening" attitude by having complimentary glasses of champagne presented seconds after arriving. Aaah...I used to love going there. The service was intuitive, not stuffy. The staff was knowledgeable about wine and created perfect pairings. And Erik always made a visit to each table to ensure that his creations were exceeding his guests' expectations.

He's passionately promising more of the same with his soon-to-open Evangeline restaurant:

...Points of finesse I expect from my staff should translate into a comfortable dining experience for the guest. Spill wine. Slurp the bordelaise off the plate. Get loud. Celebrate. Start an impromptu game of twister. Put your meal on hold, take a nap….whatever. The point, is that our command is your wish. Whatever level of cuisine or service we achieve, I can guarantee we will revisit each technique in hindsight, to ensure a pleasurable and enlightened experience for you the next time.

You pour the wine, we'll bring Twister. Portland is ready and waiting for Sexy, Classic French!

Bandaloop - Kennebunkport

Located at 2 Dock Square in Kennebunkport (upstairs and behind Abacus), Bandaloop is a place with a homey, "locals-prevail" vibe, and it was packed with such on the Saturday night we dined.

We had a 7:45 reservation; we were seated at 8:15. To kill time, one would normally sidle up to the bar, but the bar was full and it was standing room only. Problem was, the only place to wait was by the hostess stand, at the entrance to the kitchen, or hovering over diners at their tables.

We tried numerous times to make eye contact with the waiters and waitresses scurrying by, hoping someone might pour us a drink to enjoy as we waited. Finally my husband garnered the attention of the bartender who showed us some mercy and served us a Shipyard Thumper and glass of Chardonnay.

As we enjoyed our drinks at an empty two-top table next to the bar, my husband asked the hostess if we could dine at that table. Apparently the hostess only uses a pen to associate reservations with tables, and wasn't empowered to deviate from that which was was written on the floor plan -- so if you have the unfortunate luck of waiting for the party to leave your designated table, don't bother to suggest the other empty tables at which you might be seated.

Once seated at our designated table, our server was oh-so-chipper. We ordered a glass of School House Red, an '04 Zin from Paso Robles (intensely spicey - a classic Zin) and a, '04 Longhorn Cab from Mendocino. Tastes were not an option; full glasses arrived at our table. Fortunately, both wines were fantastic, particularly the Zin with its intense peppery finish.

Bread is house-made at Bandaloop, though we had to wait a good 20 minutes after being seated for it to arrive at our table. And when it did, there was far too much baking soda used in the preparation. It was served with average quality olive oil.

Duo chef team Scott and Jason prepare American cuisine with a strong Asian influence. Many vegan and vegetarian options are available. We ordered the shrimp cakes and egg rolls for our appetizer selections. The Shrimp Cakes were topped with a lime-tamari glaze; piping hot and crisp from light pan frying, they were outstanding. The Egg Rolls were uniquely prepared, filled with red onion, walnuts, spinach, Gorgonzola cheese and served with a port wine reduction sauce for dipping. They sound like they would be heavy and rich, but they were the opposite. Lightly fried, the ingredients within the wrapper existed in perfect harmony and oozed out of the crisp exterior after they were cut into two. We devoured every morsel of these appetizers.

For my entree, I chose from the "Center of the Plate Selection". Choose from several fish and beef options, tofu, chicken or pork, and pair with one of the half dozen sauces available. I opted for the "Seven Grilled Shrimp" with Thai Green Curry Sauce. For $1 each, you can try a side of any of the other sauces available; I chose the Pistachio Cilantro Pesto, which was far too sweet for my taste, so I quickly set it aside so that I could enjoy my curry. Large grilled shrimp (exactly 7 of them, as described on the menu) were set upon a vegetable medley of broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, red peppers, spinach, carrots and red onion, all perfectly sauteed, served with a saffron rice and set in a creamy curry broth that was flavorful without being overly spicy.

My husband fared equally well with his choice of the Panko Encrusted Haddock with Avocado Tomato Salsa, a special that evening. The fish was fresh and perfectly cooked. The avocado was ripened to perfection before it was diced and mixed with tomato chunks. The same vegetable medley that accompanied my shrimp was served as a side with his fish and saffron rice.

Reasonably priced (dinner before tip was $76), service was lacking. There were long waits between courses, there was no offer to refill our bread basket, my husband's water glass had caked on debris and when he asked for another, was given a deep sigh, but no apology. Though I was tempted with the dessert options, neither of us felt like waiting another half hour for our order to be taken and for it to be delivered, so we passed.

Eclectic is the best way to describe the atmosphere at Bandaloop. Set in a rustic barn, there is seating on two levels. Downstairs dining might feel a bit hectic, with the bright light from the cooler, the chefs cooking behind the counter, the waiters bustling by, and the overflow crowds from the bar brushing up against diners trying to enjoy their meals. Upstairs it is a bit more mellow, and warmer (ask for upstairs dining if you go there in the winter).

Music playing ranged from Grateful Dead to Elvis to Bob Marley. Random, mismatched tablecloths and napkins adorned the tables, funky lanterns hung from the ceiling, and a "I found it at a rummage sale" type decorations, with no particular theme, abound. The restaurant reminds me of something you'd see at a ski resort, a place where college kids might hang out after a day on the slopes. Laid back with less than optimum service levels, it is the last place you'd expect to find well executed dishes.

Service and atmosphere weigh heavily into my decision as to where to dine and I wasn't impressed with either at Bandaloop, so likely I won't return, despite the excellent fare.

Local Happenings

If you're not escaping to Nevis, or some other warm destination in the next few weeks, here are few events happening locally (Portland, Maine) to help get you through the end of the long snowy winter...

Paul Virant of Vie Restaurant in Chicago is teaming up with fellow Food & Wine 2007 Best New Chef Award winner, Steve Corry to prepare a 7-course tasting menu on Monday, March 24th. There is only one seating for this event, held at Five Fifty-Five, which I suspect will sell out. $150pp for 7 courses paired with wine.

If you love Hugo's tasting menu, plan a dinner there before March 22, the last night they are serving before their Spring Break. They won't re-open until May 2nd, at which time they are promising "big changes and a new menu." I just hope they bring back the lobster parfait!

The "utterly cosmopolitan yet utterly unpretentious” Pink Martini will be performing at Merrill Auditorium on Friday, March 7th. Eclectic, the band "is like a romantic Hollywood musical of the 1940s or 50s – but with a global perspective which is modern".

If you feel like heading south from Maine, Boston's "Restaurant Week" starts Sunday, March 9th and runs through Friday, March 14th, and again Sunday, March 16 through Friday, March 21st. Restaurant Week is an excellent way to sample some of Boston's best restaurants, without breaking the bank; 3-course Prix-fixe Lunch Menus are $20.08, while the 3-course Prix-fixe Dinner Menus are $33.08 More than 150 restaurants participate, including some well-known fine dining establishments such as Les Zygomates, Icarus, L'Espalier...and a few of my personal favorites, Pigalle, (have the Tempura-Fried Tuna Roll and the Tuna Martini) Sibling Rivarly and the Elephant Walk.

Bagel Bake-off

In a recent post, I raved about the bagels at Scratch. But how well do they stand up against the competition? My husband and I decided to find out. On a recent Sunday we made a visit to Scratch to pick up Poppy, Sesame and Plain bagels. We then hit Mr. Bagel (in Falmouth) for the same, adding a 1/2 pound of veggie tofu to our order (Scratch only has full fat cream cheese).

Destination home, to stage our bagel bake-off.

Thankfully, last fall I invested hours upon hours testing toasters that would crisp bagels to perfection, ultimately settling on the Kitchen Aid Pro Line toaster (featured on Curb Your Enthusiasm and The Carpoolers). I had the toaster, I had the bagels. And I had nothing better to do. Perfect. The verdict?

Sesame Bagels

Scratch's version was larger in diameter and flatter than Mr. Bagel's. Crispy, it was covered with plenty of cornmeal and sesame seeds. The bagel had delicious flavor; I'm guessing from the yellow tone of the bagel, that it is the result of eggs in the dough.

Mr. Bagel's version had a significantly stronger sesame flavor that typically comes from pre-toasting the seeds. Denser than Scratch's version, it was crispy on the outside and doughy on the inside.

This was a tough one. I'd call it a tie, each bagel having different, but equally enjoyable qualities.

Poppy Seed Bagel

The clear winner here was Scratch. Though Mr. Bagel covers their bagels in Poppy Seeds, the bagel was almost tasteless. Thick, doughy and tasteless.

Scratch's had fewer poppy seeds, but they were exploding with flavor. The bagel itself tastes more like the high quality bread you find at their bakery, as opposed to a traditional bagel. Think round, flat baguette. Yum.

Plain Bagel

Ditto the poppy experience, without the seeds.

Bottom Line

To accompany smoked salmon, capers, tomatoes and red onion, I would opt for Mr. Bagel's bagels, as they would not compete with the flavors of the other ingredients. They are also a bit less chewy than Scratch's bagels, making it easier to bite off a piece piled with fixings. For all other occasions, I'd stick with Scratch for a crisper, more flavorful bagel.

Bagel nirvana would be for Scratch to add low-fat or fat-free cream cheese options...and for ultimate bliss, creamy tofu vegetable spread.

Pom's Thai Taste Restaurant & Noodle House - Portland, Maine

If you're a frequent reader, you know that I am a huge fan of Pom's Thai Taste. The original, on Cottage Road in South Portland is my favorite. I discovered it years ago when I lived in Cape Elizabeth and hit it frequently for takeout on my way home from work.

Pom's second location, on Western Avenue in South Portland, has a nicer interior, quicker service, and the food is almost as good - certainly my choice for a quick meal when I am in the Mall vicinity.

As a loyal Pom's fan, I was looking forward to trying her newest venture, located at 571 Congress Street. Seeing a full house each night I drove by, and reading the accolades of other bloggers, I had high hopes for the new eatery.

We finally stopped in for dinner last week. Service is always exceptional at all of Pom's restaurants, the Congress Street location is no exception. Our hostess suggested a table away from the door so that we could avoid the blasts of cold air from patrons coming and going. (Why, oh why, don't restaurants in Maine build entries with double doors - take a cue from Bresca who did it right.) Unfortunately, seated at the rear of the restaurant, we still felt the cold and we were subjected to the ultra bright overhead lights from the kitchen.

We were seated at a tiny table that was not large enough for the multiple plastic stands hyping beer, wine and dinner specials, and the textbook size menu. I kid you not, the menu must be 4 inches thick, filled with pictures of each item on the menu. A creative idea, for sure, but I found myself becoming increasingly irritated as I tried to balance the menu on the edge of the tiny table so that I wouldn't knock down the water and wine glasses. That, combined with the terribly bright overhead light shining in my eyes, did not start the evening off on the right foot.

A glass of Kendall Jackson Chardonnay took the edge off a bit, as I hungrily dug into the Steamed Butterflies, cited as a "signature dish" on the menu. Steamed dumplings filled with ground chicken, herbs and roasted peanuts arrived lukewarm, accompanied by an extremely salty soy sauce for dipping. The Tom Yum (Hot & Sour) Soup, a thin broth, flavored with spicy chili paste, lemongrass and kaffir lime, held crisp vegetables. My husband deemed Sala Thai's version superior, in large part because of Pom's omission of mushrooms. The Steamed Vegetable Dumplings were returned to the kitchen after only a couple of bites. Lukewarm, the thick wrapper was gluey and the Asian chives tasted like frozen spinach with freezer burn.

The meal took a turn for the better with the arrival of our entrees. My husband had ordered from the "choose your noodle" menu; a large bowl of clear chicken broth contained shrimp, cilantro, mushrooms, baby corn, carrots, snow peas and a vermicelli. My Sesame Noodle, lo mein noodle stir fried with sesame oil, broccoli, red peppers, tofu, mushrooms, carrots, snow peas and sesame seeds was the only standout dish of the evening.

Writing this blog encourages me to try new restaurants and interesting dishes, instead of reverting to my "usual." But I had a feeling that maybe this is where my latest Pom's experience had faltered. I had deviated from the dishes I love at their other restaurants. Not wanting to believe that Pom's could be a disappointment, we returned a week later, this time for lunch.

The atmosphere at lunch was more pleasing. The white walls, cream colored chairs and bamboo floors create a bright and airy feeling. I was seated away from the bright lights of the kitchen on this visit, we had a four top table, which gave us more room, and they save the textbook menus for dinner. Instead we were handed a manageable four page menu to peruse. A complimentary iceberg lettuce salad with carrots, tomatoes, red onion and Russian dressing was presented, along with a wedge of scallion pancake. Things were looking up.

We deviated from our norm with just one item: the Mini Vegetable Dumplings. Tofu was mixed with diced scallions and carrots and served with a soy dipping sauce. The filling was tasteless and the wrapper was a bit thick and tough for my taste; though we finished all eight, but I would not order this appetizer again. The Fresh Vegetable Spring Rolls were as I had hoped. Crisp, fresh vegetables were tightly wrapped in rice paper and served with a sweet and sour dipping sauce topped with ground peanuts.

The Panaeng Curry contained plentiful amounts of tofu, red peppers, baby corn, snow peas and basil, but the curry sauce tasted off. We finally determined that it was thinner and more watery than normal. When Pom herself emerged from the kitchen and asked how we were enjoying our entrees, my husband gave her honest feedback. She seemed impressed that he had so accurately identified the issue with the sauce, revealing that they were having quality issues with their most recent supply of coconut milk from Thailand. The cans did in fact contain more water than usual and they were working to remove some of the excess water from the cans before making the next batch of curry.

The most significant disappointment was the Pad Thai. What first garnered my praise years ago at Pom's Cottage Road location was how healthy their cuisine was in comparison to other Thai restaurants. The flavors of the noodles and crisp, fresh vegetables were front and center in all of their glory, rather than masked by the abundant use of oil. The version at Pom's Congress Street location tasted much like the Pad Thai I have had elsewhere: oily.

The prices at Pom's seem a bit higher than other area Thai restaurants; I used to think they were inflated a bit due to the Cape Elizabeth clientele at their Cottage Street location. At the Congress Street location, dinner for two (before tip) was $61 (three appetizers, two entrees, wine and beer), while lunch (also before tip) was $34 (two entrees, two appetizers and tea).

Is Pom's spread too thin? With one location, the food was consistently superb. So amazing that I often proclaimed it to be the best Thai in Southern Maine. But a recent lunch at Pom's Cottage Road location revealed that even the original has suffered from the attention diverted to Pom's latest ventures.

To be the best, or the biggest...that may be the question for Pom as she grows her Thai restaurant empire in Maine. I vote for quality over quantity.

Pom's is the latest addition to Portland's abundance of Thai restaurants. Is it among the best? Vote for your favorite Thai restaurant (until February 29th) on the poll at the left.

Wine Tasting at Leavitt & Sons

Leavitt & Sons is hosting its first Wine Tasting this Thursday, February 28, from 4:30-6:30.

Peter Leavitt has just crossed the minimum 250 bottle threshold needed to hold such an event, and it's time to celebrate! On my recent visit, I was impressed with his selection, including several rare finds.

For those of you who haven't yet tried the provisions at Falmouth's newest specialty grocery store and sandwich shop, they will be tasting those too.

For additional wine tasting events in Maine, check out Nancy English's Chow Maine.

Cheers!

Pillows of Perfection

Chef Steve Corry's Meyer Lemon Gnocchi are featured in this month's edition of Food & Wine:

"After draining the gnocchi, he sautés them until they’re slightly crispy, then tosses them with the lemony sauce."

I experienced them first hand at Five Fifty-Five where they were recently served with a fantastic Pan Roasted Sturgeon with Champagne Caviar Sauce. The Gnocchi were light, crisp and delicate - tiny little pillows of perfection - so unlike the heavy "gluey" type I have had elsewhere.

As one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs, I would be shocked if Five Fifty-Five isn't on Gourmet's next list of the America's Top 50 Restaurants.

Foppiano 1997 Petite Sirah

On a recent Saturday night, we decided to take the evening off from the restaurant routine. Instead, we opened up a bottle of Petite Sirah that we had obtained on one of our countless trips to Napa and Sonoma.

We love full bodied red wines and have a particular passion for Petite Sirah. So each year when we visit California's wine regions, we make sure to stop at Foppiano Vineyards in Healdsburg. It is there that Shirley pours us samples of the current vintages, and always ends up selling us at least one of the bottles from the "Library" that they aren't tasting because of the age...in this case it was a '97 Petite Sirah.

Grown mostly in Napa and Sonoma, for years Petite Sirah was considered a boutique wine. Only in the past five years or so have I begun to consistently see it on restaurant wine lists.

Many believe that Petite Sirah is completely unrelated to Syrah. Not so according to a recent study done at the University of California at Davis which determined that 90% of the Petite Sirah found in California is Durif (a minor red grape variety first grown in southern France), and that Durif is a cross between Peloursin and Syrah. - Wine Spectator Online

Experts agree that Petite Sirah is best when cellared for at least ten years. When it is finally uncorked, Petite Sirah benefits from breathing for a couple of hours, which we allowed ours to do in our Riedel decanter. The smell as we waited to enjoy this deep purple Rhone varietal was intoxicating. Fragrant with black cherry and pungent with spice, we could hardly wait to take our first sip.

Petite Sirah pairs well with most foods, beef, fowl, spicy, rich - you name it. I like it best paired with earthy mushrooms or Ahi tuna. But when I open a bottle of the good stuff, I prefer to enjoy the first glass on its own, so that I can truly appreciate the wine in all of its glory.

We lit a candle, settled into our chairs and took our first sip. And what we tasted was the same black cherry, so evident on the nose, but also a bit of chocolate. Spicy and peppery with the softest of tannins, it was smooth, yet had incredible depth and richness. Spectacular.

Soon our stomachs started to growl, so I whipped up some fried spring rolls, filled with shredded cabbage and carrots, and served them with a sweet and sour dipping sauce. The wine was well structured and stood up against the myriad of flavors.

Enjoying a bottle of 1997 Petite Sirah, in front of a crackling fire is the perfect way to spend a cold, snowy Saturday night in Maine. If you don't have a bottle of '97 Petite Sirah in the cellar, pick up a bottle of '04 Pinot Noir and enjoy it tonight. 2004 was a very good year for California Pinot Noir...2005 wasn't bad either, so stock up. We've found several bottles of Foppiano's '04 Petite Sirah at Black Cherry Provisions in Falmouth and have enjoyed them immensely.

Cheers!

Gotta Have Heart

Don't forget Valentine's Day!

Looking for ideas to surprise your Valentine?

Check out Nutmeg Food's Valentine's special dark chocolate concoctions, sold locally at LeRoux.

If you want to treat your Valentine to a memorable evening out on the town, hopefully you've booked a romantic spot such as Five Fifty-Five, Bresca, Back Bay Grill or Ribollita.

And guys, despite what they say, women really do want roses.

Enjoy celebrating with the one you love!

Sweet Stuff

How well do you know your Portland area restaurant desserts?

1. What are these desserts?

2. Which Portland restaurant served them on a recent Saturday night?

Post a comment with your guess. The prize? Everlasting fame on:
Type A Diversons!

Emilitsa - Portland, Maine

After a recent wine tasting event at Black Cherry Provisions in Falmouth, going home to cook was the last thing I felt like doing. In the mood for something different, we decided to try Emilitsa, Portland's new Greek restaurant, located at 547 Congress Street.

There was not a sign outside the restaurant, as Emilitsa had been open less than a week the night we dined. Consequently, we drove by the restaurant twice before I spotted flickering candles on tables in a storefront that had never before caught my eye. Inside Emilitsa, the decor is hip; whitewashed brick walls softly lit, cool art, sealed butcher block tables, and a funky bar lit with glowing red hanging lights. We knew we were in good company when we spotted Chef Steven Corey and his wife Michelle (owners of Five Fifty-Five), enjoying dinner on their night off. I think it is wonderful that our local chefs patronize, support and celebrate the success of each others' restaurants.

I consider myself fairly well-versed in California wines, but was at a loss with the selection of only Greek wines. Luckily our waitress had excellent knowledge of the featured wines and directed us to two full bodied reds, which she allowed us to taste before committing to a full glass. The first, an '05 Palivou Nemea was comparable to a Red Zin - complete with a peppery finish. The Domain Foivos "Myesis" was a more mellow red, dry, with only a hint of spice.

Our waitress (Jenny) surprised us with a treat from the kitchen, a chilled potato garlic puree served with grilled Standard baguette slices topped with high quality unfiltered olive oil, parsley and lemon. We munched away happily as we perused the menu. Still in the midst of a "soft opening", Emilitsa is serving a "preview" menu, featuring a dozen or so appetizers and only four entrees. Decisions, decisions...numerous appetizers appealed to us, and with assistance from Jenny, we settled on the Spanikopita and the trio of dips served with pita.

Thin layers of buttery, light and flaky phyllo dough held a blend of spinach, feta and dill to create the delicate Spanakopita triangles. Our trio of dips included traditional tzatziki (blended cucumber and yogurt) which made a fabulous dip for the Spanikopita, a red caviar "hummus" type dip (my favorite), and a chunky eggplant, tomato and herb mix, similar to a bruschetta. All were served with thick, warm, doughy pita bread from Greece.

My husband ordered the restaurant's only Grecian beer, called Mythos, to enjoy with his entree of Free Range Chicken, marinated in lemon, olive oil, oregano and garlic. A bit overcooked, it was flavorful but dry. The grilled potato wedges were excellent, crisp and golden on the outside, yet soft on the inside and wonderful when dredged in the olive oil, lemon and parsley on the plate.

I wanted to try something different than my husband, but the three remaining entrees on the preview menu were meat based; I was hoping for a veggie option. The waitress, after checking with Demo, proactively offered to have the chef create a dish that was not on the menu. The resulting vegetarian entree featured grilled yellow zucchini, eggplant, scallions, red onions, olives, feta cheese, fresh lemon juice and a fabulous unfiltered olive oil (from Greece); it was creative and flavorful.

We managed to save just enough room to share the baklava, a dessert made with layers of phyllo, walnuts, and sweet honey. The chef is smart to portion this dessert very small, as it is so rich and sweet.

Service at Emilitsa is excellent, attentive without being intrusive. We particularly liked that with each course, the silverware was cleared and replaced. The chef attempts to use all organic ingredients, many are shipped directly from Greece. Soon (perhaps at the time you are reading this), they plan to add fish to their menu - caught daily in the Mediterranean - and within 24 hours on the tables of Emilitsa diners.

John would be wise to install a double door before too much time passes. Similar to the problem we've experienced at Ribollita, each time the door opens, diners in the front dining room and bar are blasted with cold air, diminishing the enjoyment of the experience immensely. My advice to others is to request a table in the rear of the restaurant to avoid this issue until it is rectified.

Restaurants typically fumble during the initial weeks and months of opening their doors; not the case with Emilitsa. Although more expensive than the two other Greek restaurants in town, the service and quality of food match the price point. My husband and I each had two drinks, an appetizer, entree and split a dessert for $95.

Our expectations were exceeded on the night we dined; we were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the food, the exceptional service and the upscale decor. We look forward to our return.

XV Beacon & Mooo.... (Boston)

If you're seeking an upscale boutique hotel in Boston, look no further than XV Beacon. It's always a toss up for me whether to stay at XV Beacon or the Boston Harbor Hotel. Though the latter overlooks the harbor and is within walking distance to the famed North End restaurants, XV Beacon is a short walk through the park for shopping on Newbury - and of utmost importance on our most recent trip - a two minute walk to No. 9 Park.

Both the Boston Harbor and XV Beacon feature complimentary car service. The Boston Harbor has superior workout facilities, including a pool, and a full service spa. XV Beacon has a masculine feel; the lobby and guest rooms are dark and sleek, featuring stainless steel fireplace surrounds, televisions in the bathroom and gas fireplaces that turn on from a button located next to the bed. Ideally situated for business travelers, XV Beacon is close to the financial district, and next door to the State House.

The service at XV Beacon is eerily intuitive. They carefully watch the comings and goings of their guests, slipping into your room when you are out to freshen it up or drop off complimentary champagne and chocolate covered strawberries if you are celebrating a special occasion. The capable concierge will arrange an in-room massage, dinner reservations, or at one guest's overheard request, a "dessert tasting."

XV Beacon features a superior restaurant to the Boston Harbor, at least when it comes to breakfast. Formerly the Federalist, it has been transformed into Mooo... (a steakhouse if you're wondering why the odd name). While the Federalist was dark and sophisticated, Mooo is whitewashed, bright, and features techno pop music in the background. I understand the attempt to attract a younger, more hip audience than XV Beacon likely draws, though I suspect The Federalist decor appealed more to visitors of the hotel. It will be interesting to see if the Mooo concept sticks. Regardless, the breakfast is the same - as excellent now as it was when served under the former restaurant name.

I enjoyed the Eggs Benedict, a thick English muffin topped with crab, smoked salmon, poached eggs and dill hollandaise sauce. The accompanying homefries were served in a Staub cast iron baker, a nice touch and ideal way to keep them warm throughout the meal. The potatoes themselves were crisp on the outside, well seasoned, and sauteed with onions and diced red peppers.

My husband was also in the mood for Eggs Benedict, but ordered his with sauteed mushrooms, instead of the traditional ham. The mushroom medley they had on hand was impressive: button, shitake and oyster, sauteed with garlic and a splash of sherry. As much as I enjoyed my version of the Benedict, his was better.

The cappuccino I ordered tasted as though it came from an automated machine; the bagels appear to be frozen and re-heated. Come here instead for the Benedicts, the fresh squeezed orange juice, and the convenience if you are staying at XV Beacon.

XV Beacon is in the process of updating its rooms, starting from the top floors and working their way down. Updates include the installation of plasma televisions, carpet replacement, and new bed frames. The updates are expected to be completed in the spring, so if you plan to stay there anytime soon, request a room on one of the upper floors.

You can't go wrong at either the Boston Harbor Hotel or XV Beacon. Be sure to check their websites when booking, though, as their specials are typically priced well below the "rack rate".

No. 9 Park - Boston

2006 Gourmet Magazine's ranking (#43) of No. 9 Park is off the mark. One of the best restaurants I've encountered (and I've tried more than a dozen on Gourmet's list), Boston's No. 9 Park should rank in the top 10 of America's Best Restaurants.

Upon arriving at No. 9 Park, we were promptly greeted and shown to our table at the rear of the restaurant. The room was very warm and my husband asked our server if the heat could be turned down. Just a moment later the hostess appeared at our table, expressed her apologies for the temperature and said she had turned down the heat. She also offered a table in the front dining room where it was at least ten degrees cooler. We accepted. The excellent and swift service exhibited in our first five minutes at No. 9 Park was sustained throughout the evening.

On the weeknight we dined, the restaurant was full with a mostly business crowd. Across the street from the State-House, it appears to be the choice for business dinners and couples to meet after work for a bite to eat. The three course tasting menu served only in the bar, allows for a more affordable version of that which is served in the dining room - and provides a forum for drop in diners without reservations.

Many of the wines on the wine menu are made specifically for No. 9 Park, including the 2006 Santa Barbara Pinot Blanc that my husband selected while he perused the dinner menu. Our waitress was correct that this was more of a classic buttery Chardonnay than a Pinot Blanc - exactly what he was seeking. The 2006 Heinrich "Red Cat for the Butcher Shop" wine, also made for No. 9 Park, was recommended to me by our waitress. I was skeptical about ordering such a young red, but it turned out to be delicious, soft, round and absent of hard tannins. Proper "Riedel" style wine glasses were used for these wines, and throughout the evening for each of our wine selections.

Wanting to experience the full range of the chef's talents, we both selected the seven course Chef's Tasting menu ($90) with wine pairings ($150). Substitution requests were easily accommodated, the first being the Kampachi Sashimi in place of the Assiette of Pork. The Kampachi was as fresh as I've tasted it; served with pickled ginger, the fish was drizzled with pumpkinseed oil and topped with tiny fried shallots, a nice contrast to the buttery sashimi. Such delicate tastes would have been overwhelmed by most wines; the Roederer champagne paired with the dish was perfect and refreshing.

Our next course, Lobster Salad, was served atop basil puree and topped with a fried white anchovy, baby fennel, tomato confit and black olives. The lemon olive oil drizzled over the salad cut through the buttery richness of the lobster and tempered the fried taste of the anchovy. This dish had a Mediterranean flavor and was paired with a Rose wine from the south of France (2006 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Rose).
Dover Sole with bearnaise sauce, capers and spinach was a more interesting presentation than the Dover Sole I recently had at Locke-Ober, though it was a bit bland until paired with a lemony Sicilian white wine (2005 COS Rami).

The Risotto with Cardoon, (similar to an artichoke) Black Truffles, and Comte (a nutty flavored cheese) was one of my favorite dishes of the evening, though not as good as the Risotto with White Truffles that I enjoyed at The French Laundry (ranked #3 on Gourmet's list).

For the optional middle course, we had a choice of Foie Gras or Prune Stuffed Gnocchi. I selected the gnocchi which was served with toasted almonds and brown butter. It was paired with a 10-year old Broadbent Madeira that I did not at all care for, though the sweet wine was appropriate with the tart prune.

Sweet brioche topped with pear butter held my husband's foie gras, which the '04 Riesling complimented perfectly. The other side of the platter held a foie gras pate topped with red current, which unfortunately completely overpowered the delicate pate flavor. Roasted squab (baby pigeon) was tender and moist; it was amazing when paired with the accompanying finely chopped pistachio and shallot jam.

We decided to share the optional cheese course. Kate, our server, was impressively well versed about not only the menu, but the wines and cheeses as well. For an optimum experience, request her as your server if you decide to dine at No. 9 Park. With her assistance, we selected the Blue de Bocage from the Loire Valley, the Dallenwiler Geisschas from Switzerland (my favorite - creamy like a Camembert), U Pecurinu from Corsica and Shropshire Blue from England, an amazing cheddar/blue cheese combination. All cheeses at No. 9 Park come from Formaggio Kitchen in Boston's South End, though we purchased the Shropshire Blue the next day (it was that good) at The Cheese Iron in Scarborough, Maine. Kate provided us with complimentary glasses of Muscat which paired exceptionally well with each of the cheeses.

Our final course was the Chocolate and Cinnamon Cremeux with roasted pear, white chocolate and walnut slivers, served with a surprisingly refreshing Sparkling Red wine (2006 Cascina Garitina Brachetto D'Acqui Niades).

Far superior to many of the restaurants on Gourmet's America's Top 50 Restaurants list, No. 9 Park is certainly better than Charlie Trotter's, Locke-Ober, Cyrus, Daniel, Fore Street and even Spago. If you live within driving distance, you must go to No. 9 Park; if you live further away, it is an absolute "must do" destination dinner for serious foodies.

Parish Cafe - Boston

At the recommendation of a fellow Chowhound, my husband and I had lunch at the Parish Cafe, located at 361 Boylston Street in Boston. Their description of a lunch spot that is "hip and comfortable" with "top notch sandwiches" was dead on.

With 80's and 90's rock playing in the background, the restaurant was packed for lunch with a diverse crowd of business people, college students, and soccer moms with their kids. Scoring a table in the front window, it was the perfect spot to people-watch, though our attention was quickly diverted to the fresh brewed iced tea and Vegetable Potstickers ($8.95) that soon arrived at the table. Filled with carrots and cabbage, these vegetarian dumplings were served with two sauces: an Asian soy ginger dipping sauce, and a thicker, mayonnaise-based, spicy remoulade. The plastic containers used to serve the sauces were an odd choice, though it didn't take away from our enjoyment.

I used both sauces, first spreading the dumplings with the remoulade sauce, then dipping them into the soy ginger, making sure to scoop up a scallion for added flavor. The wrappers were perfect (not too thick); the dumplings were more flavorful than most I've had, likely a result of sauteing them in a bit of sesame oil rather than steaming. The side of sticky rice made this appetizer filling enough for a lunch entree.

Each sandwich on the menu is created for Parish Cafe by a well known Boston Area chef. I selected the SDLT ($10.95), a spice rubbed, smoked duck breast sandwich served on caraway rye bread with lettuce, tomato, red onion and caper mayonnaise. With a choice of cole slaw or potato salad, I selected the latter. Excellent quality bread was thickly sliced, lightly toasted and filled with a generous portion of sliced duck breast. The combination of the rye bread, red onion, caper mayo and duck was an explosion of intense flavors in my mouth. The red bliss potato salad held a perfect amount of heavy mayonnaise, parsley salt and pepper.

My husband's Black-Peppered Tuna ($14.25) was an entree, as opposed to a sandwich. Grilled and served rare, the steak was edged with crushed black pepper and drizzled with a soy-teriyaki glaze. The side of curried vegetable risotto cake held bits of red pepper and scallion; the thick asparagus was marinated in soy sauce and sesame oil, then grilled. Immensely flavorful, it could only have been improved had the chef used an asparagus peeler on the chewy stalks.

If I lived or worked in the vicinity of the Parish Cafe, I suspect I'd be a regular. The specialty martinis, cocktails and interesting appetizer list would make it a fun after-work spot. It's also a perfect spot to grab lunch when I visit Boston, as I routinely do, particularly given its proximity to Newbury Street.

The Parish Cafe is closed February 3rd through the 10th for sprucing up (refinishing the floors, etc). When they re-open, I suspect their loyal crowd of followers will return in force.

Pain

Pain is weakness leaving your body

...as seen on a t-shirt at the gym

The Good Egg Cafe - Portland, Maine

The mixture of punk rock and new wave pop music playing in the background set the mood for our casual breakfast at The Good Egg Cafe (at the Pepperclub Restaurant on Middle Street in Portland).

By the time we arrived (11-ish), they had sold out of their Cinnamon Rolls, not at all surprising since they are known to be amazing. I struck out again when I attempted to order a Cappuccino, which they don't serve. Instead we settled for orange juice (not freshly squeezed) and Coffee By Design coffee.

My husband was disappointed not to see Eggs Benedict on the menu. Instead he ordered the Eggs From Hell, The Good Egg Cafe's version of Huevos Rancheros. A soft herbed tortilla shell was served with scrambled eggs, a generous portion of black beans topped with sour cream and a smoky chipotle salsa on the side. The herbed tortilla shell lent an odd, though not aversive taste to the dish; it might have been better with a plain shell. The griddle used to cook his side of Red Potato homefries needed to be scraped down, as evidenced by the charred flecks on the plate. Aside from that, the homefries were perfectly cooked, soft on the inside, crispy on the outside. They lacked seasoning and were considerably tastier when scooped up on the fork with some of the black beans, sour cream and salsa. Next time I would order them with the cheddar, salsa and sour cream, a variation they offer on the menu.

I was pleased with my choice of Vegetable Hash and Eggs. Just a touch too oily, the mixture of baked potato, onion, carrots, spinach, broccoli, parsley and tempeh had a nutty taste; the charred broccoli gave this dish wonderful flavor. I ponied up the extra $0.25 for an "Everything" Spelt Right bagel, promoted on the menu as "easy to digest." It was surprisingly soft - not at all chewy - more like a thick piece of bread. While I enjoyed it, I still prefer the bagels at Scratch Bakery.

The service at The Good Egg Cafe is friendly, though not quite attentive enough. Once our initial orders of coffee and orange juice were consumed (before our breakfast arrived), we were not offered any additional beverages. The waitstaff tends to "drop and run" - quickly delivering the food and running off to the next table, so if you need things like ketchup or water, you need to speak quickly. If they hear you, they will cheerfully bring you whatever you requested.

This is a true breakfast - not brunch - spot. Opening early (7 am during the week and 8 am on the weekends), they serve hearty portions of breakfast fare. Think pancakes and eggs, not Cappuccino and Eggs Benedict. This vegetarian-friendly version of Becky's delivers the diner experience with an alternative vibe. Though not a spot I'd meet a client for breakfast, it fits the bill for a casual and affordable breakfast spot with friends.