Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé

One of my favorite Rosé champagnes is Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé. I discovered it while dining in St. Martin a few years ago, at the wonderfully romantic La Vien Rose.

While Rosé is typically associated with inexpensive champagne; Laurent-Perrier changed my thinking. The Cuvée Rosé is made with 100% Pinot Noir grapes. The initial flavors are distinctively berry, without being overly-sweet or syrupy. The finish is crisp and refreshing.

Though you'll likely find it for more than $100 in restaurants, it retails between $60 and $75 a bottle. We were fortunate enough to find it while shopping on the Dutch side of the island for $30 and promptly bought a half-dozen bottles to enjoy during our stay at La Samanna.

Tasting notes suggest pairing the champagne with charcuterie, poultry, red fruit desserts - and even Asian cuisine. We preferred ours paired each evening with the sand, the sea and the spectacular St. Martin sunsets.

Cheers!

Chanticleer South, Islamorada

Jean-Charles Berruet spent thirty-five years as the chef at the Chanticleer Inn in Nantucket before deciding to move to the Florida Keys and open Chanticleer South. Step inside his tiny restaurant and it is pure French, with sponge painted salmon walls, deep red tablecloths and colorful dishes.

Berruet's wife, Cecile, runs the front of the house and the night we dined, it was immediately evident that there were service issues. Of the dozen occupied tables, only one had their food. The seemingly inexperienced waitstaff could be seen huddling together, talking in whispers and glancing back to the kitchen with worried looks.

Though we were seated immediately, it was 15 minutes before anyone came to our table to pour water, and another 5 before Cecile arrived to take our drink order. The availability of only a single red and white by the glass indicated the Chef's preference for his guests to order a full bottle, each of which was considerably marked-up. For example, Veuve Clicquot Brut (Yellow Label) was $90, available in most wine shops for $45, and typically sold for between $60 and $70 at most restaurants.

During the evening, I tasted each of the two wines by the glass. The 2004 Chateau la Baronne, a Sauvignon Blanc, tasted surprisingly like a buttery chardonnay. The red, an '04 Château Ollieux Romanis, was full bodied and well balanced. My husband opted for the light and hoppy Hurricane Reef Pilsner, a local Florida beer.

When Cecile was finally available to take our order (the other waitstaff were relegated to filling water glasses, delivering bread and clearing plates - excelling at none of these tasks), we started with appetizers, selecting the Shrimp Bisque with Parmesan Profiteroles, and the Tuna Carpaccio, marinated with truffle oil and served with thin shavings of Parmesan Regiano. The bisque was piping hot, thick, creamy and utterly delectable, more to our liking than the version we had the previous night at Pierre's. The Tuna Carpaccio was a disappointment; the paper-thin tuna did not have much taste on its own, and was completely overpowered when paired with the salty cheese.

A basket of frozen, re-heated Parmesan breadsticks arrived mid-way through our appetizers, along with a half-stick of butter on a silver tray. You know a chef has lost passion for his craft when he serves sticks of butter...

I was tempted by the Chef's signature dish, the scaloppini of grouper, saute, served with a pinot noir, shallots, herbs sauce. Berruet is well known for his use of Pinot Noir sauces in seafood preparation, as opposed to more traditional white wine sauces typically paired with fish. However, after Cecile's warning that I may need to help my husband with his lobster pie, I selected an appetizer-sized portion of the special of the evening, Shrimp Provencial. Gulf Shrimp were sauteed with garlic, parsley, lemon juice and white wine - a simple preparation that allowed the fresh, juicy shrimp to take center stage.

As we had been warned, the Pithivier de Homard (Lobster Pie) was plenty for two to share. A delicate, buttery pastry shell was filled with sauteed Florida lobster, shallots, mushrooms, diced carrots, spinach, cognac, port and cream, and served with a side of decadent lime beurre blanc that seeped into the crevices of the dough, just enough to soften it to a consistency that could be cut with a fork. After devouring my Shrimp Provencial, I could only muster a few bites of this incredibly rich entree.

We were too full, and frankly, too frustrated by the poor service, to entertain the idea of dessert. Dinner, including drinks, was $128 before tip.

Service, atmosphere and cuisine are of equal importance to me when dining, though when one of the three elements suffers, it has an exponential bearing on the overall dining experience. Chanticleer South offers above-average contemporary French cuisine (minus the breadsticks), and a delightfully cheery decor, however, the service was abysmal during the two hours we were guests.

I suspect we caught them on an "off night" considering the accolades this restaurant has received by others, but given my experience I would be reluctant to return. My top picks for dining in Islamorada are Pierre's and Kaiyo.

Louie's Backyard - Key West

For those seeking a quiet, scenic reprieve from the hustle and bustle of Duval Street in Key West, look no further than Louie's Backyard. Recommended by one of the staff at Casa Morada, we found this restaurant tucked in a quiet neighborhood with spectacular views of the ocean.

It was completely filled at 2pm the weekday we dined for lunch. We were fortunate to end up with a tiny table on the side deck, adjacent to the dining room. The view was breathtaking, the service was a bit slow, though friendly, and the food was superb.

It's important to start a vacation out on the right foot, in this case that meant a glass of Prosecco ($8), despite the early afternoon hour. The sparkling Italian wine had a sweet head and a smooth finish. My husband elected for an iced tea ($2), which was fresh brewed and strong, exactly to his liking.

Famished, we started with an appetizer of Crispy Crab Spring Rolls ($14.50), the best I've had and a strong contender for one of my "Best Food Experiences of 2008." Thinly sliced carrots, cabbage and green onion were rolled in crispy, flaky wrappers, alongside fresh crab, doused with fresh lime. Not a spot of grease could be found on these piping hot, crispy rolls. The accompanying sweet and sour sauce was mixed with an appropriate amount of rice wine vinegar to counteract the typical syrupy sweetness of the sauce. This appetizer alone was worth the 3 hour round trip drive we made to and from Key West.

The Key West Shrimp Salad Roll ($17.50) held finely diced Gulf shrimp, onions and celery in a toasted and buttered roll. The "salad" was topped with a spicy red pepper creole sauce, an unusual, yet interesting topping. A side of fresh mesculin greens was dressed with a light vinaigrette. The kettle chips were addictive, light and crisp.

The fish sandwich of the day ($14.50), a local Snapper, served on an onion roll with a spicy creole remoulade sauce was oh-so-fresh. My husband's only complaint was the amount of butter used on the bun - ask for it without this addition to appreciate the flavor of the fresh fish.

Though we only had lunch, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it for dinner, as well. Off the beaten path, spectacular views, adequate service and fantastic "non-tourist trap" cuisine, makes Louie's Backyard an establishment I'd return to on future visits to the Conch Republic.

Green Elephant - Portland, Maine

I enjoy vegetarian cuisine, often preparing vegetarian entrees at home, and occasionally ordering them when I dine out. So the idea of the Green Elephant, an "Asian influenced vegetarian bistro" had immense appeal. Located at 608 Congress Street in Portland, the restaurant was completely full - with several patrons waiting for tables - on the Saturday afternoon we dined.

We settled into our table and commented how light and airy the restaurant seemed. Tall plate glass windows provide plenty of natural light, one wall is faux whitewashed brick, the other is painted grass green; the floors are light bamboo, while the tables have blond butcher block tops. Funky details, like ornate chandeliers over two of the tables, larger than life forks, spoons and knives painted on the wall towards the rear of the restaurant, and a cloth wall hanging featuring dozens of forks and spoons lend to the fun, yet contemporary atmosphere.

We ordered tea while we perused the menu, and were surprised when mugs with tea bags arrived. While we were expecting fresh brewed, the organic green tea was excellent, and an additional carafe of hot water was brought to the table for self serve refills.

We steered clear of the menu items that featured soy products flavored to taste like meat or dairy. I prefer to either eat the real thing, or go without. "Soy cheese", "soy ham," and "soy tuna" simply don't hold any appeal. Fortunately, there were plenty of menu options that did.

We decided on the Vegan Deep Fried Vegetarian Spring Roll ($5) and the Vegan Roti Canai ($6). The spring roll was excellent. A crisp, light, flaky wrapper held shredded carrots, cabbage and shiitake mushrooms, and was served with a tangy dipping sauce. The Roti Canai, a flat, Indian-style pancake was a bit greasy, and the accompanying yellow curry dip - though wonderfully flavored - was on the thin side. The sauce, which held tiny chunks of carrots, just ran off the flatbread, despite my various efforts to either spoon it on top, or soak the bread.

The Steamed Vegetables with Peanut Sauce, also vegan, was an assortment of perfectly cooked broccoli, mushrooms, zucchini, corn, snow peas, carrots and green beans, served with a side of nutty temeph and brown rice ($9). Peanut sauce is one of my favorite Asian splurges, but the Green Elephant's version was a bit "gritty" for my taste; I missed the coconut milk used to create a creamier texture in the more traditional preparation. We finished the entree, but likely wouldn't order it again.

The same cannot be said of the Tofu Delight ($9). Chunks of tofu were stir fried with snow peas, carrots, zucchini, corn, bell pepper, onion, egg, celery, scallions and creamy yellow curry sauce. A lettuce leaf held the side of mashed buttercup squash; the side of brown rice added a slightly nutty flavor to the dish when mixed in with the vegetables and curry. This dish, along with the Spring Rolls, were the highlights of our meal and a reason to return.

Don't go to the Green Elephant expecting fish, beef or chicken options, or you will be sorely disappointed. I recently ran into a traditional "meat & potatoes" woman who had just dined at the Green Elephant. She met a friend for lunch there, not knowing it was a Vegetarian restaurant. To her surprise, she loved the Crispy Wontons, stuffed with soy cheese and spinach, and was proud of herself for trying a single piece of "soy ham" before deciding to focus on the vegetables and rice instead.

The same owners of the Green Elephant own Bangkok Thai, also on Congress Street. In a recent comment on that post, one of the owners, Bob, writes:

Opening a new restaurant from the ground up [Green Elephant] has been a wonderful learning experience for us. We have put our hearts into every aspect of this restaurant from the recipes, to the presentation of the food, to the decor, to the staff. Everything is our own creation and vision, and by doing so we have created something that we truly like. We now understand that we must go back and apply our selves in the same way to Bangkok Thai. We know we must change and there are many exciting plans in the works.

If Bob and his partner, Dan put the degree of effort and care into Bangkok Thai, that is so apparent in the execution of the Green Elephant, it should be a stand-out among the area Thai restaurants. In the meantime, the Green Elephant fills a void in the Greater Portland restaurant scene; for vegetarians, vegans and those seeking an alternative to traditional Asian cuisine it is a fine choice for an affordable lunch or quick bite before a movie.

Bar Lola, The Front Room or Blue Spoon?

What Munjoy Hill eatery should Type A visit in the weeks ahead, my Portland, Maine friends?

Though I've tried them all, I've had mixed experiences at Bar Lola, The Front Room and Blue Spoon over the past year and half. But it's been awhile since I've been back and I figured it was time to give them another try.

What say you? Which one is at the top of their game currently?

Kaiyo - Islamorada

Relax in the Florida sunshine by day, and enjoy the abundance of fresh, local fish by night. These were the two primary objectives of our stay in Islamorada. And how better to sample the latter than in the form of sushi?

Having read mixed reviews about the service at Kaiyo, we nearly skipped this eatery. Fortunately, we were in the mood for a break from the heavier French meals we had been enjoying on vacation, and decided to take a chance at Kaiyo.

The restaurant is located at 81701 Old Highway Road; the two story purple exterior can easily be spotted from Route 1. Inside we found tile Mosaic on the walls and riverstone floors at the entrance. Lively and loud, the restaurant was filled with a mix of locals and tourists of all ages.

We were promptly greeted and seated at a cozy corner booth that was intimate and perfect for people watching. Warm towels to wash our hands were offered, followed by the delivery of complimentary crispy rice chips with mango and black bean salsa. Our waiter was pleasant and knowledgeable about the wines, sakes and menu items.

Our first appetizer was the Yellowfin Tuna Tatiki dish. Sushi grade tuna was rolled in cracked black pepper, then seared and sliced so thin, it could be cut with a single chopstick. It was served with a sesame-soy dipping sauce, along with wasabi, pickled ginger and a seaweed salad.

The Kikusui Junmai Ginjo Sake was an elegant and smooth accompaniment to the assortment of sushi and specialty rolls that we selected. Our favorite - and Kaiyo's signature item - was the Key Lime Lobster Roll. Tempura fried Florida lobster with key lime essence and hearts of palm was wrapped in seaweed and sticky rice to create the most spectacular roll I've tasted. A close second was the Islamorada Roll, featuring yellowfin tuna, mango and avocado. The sweet mango superbly contrasted the spicy wasabi and salty soy sauce.

Wahoo - my favorite white fish - simply melted in my mouth. The Big Eye tuna (flown in daily from Hawaii), salmon, eel and yellowfin sushi were all of the highest quality. The local stone crab, simply presented in a seaweed wrapper, was stunningly fresh.

For those who enjoy sushi, Kaiyo is a "must" when visiting the Florida Keys. The execution of our meal - both the food and the service - was flawless. Expect to pay a premium; dinner for two was $147 before tip, well worth the price given the experience.

The Spirit of Key West

A Sandwich is a Sandwich

When a famous chef makes a sandwich, what does it look like? Photographer Alan "Battman" Batt shows us in his latest book, Sandwiches of the World. Check out the slideshow that Zagat put together and guess the famous chef behind the creation. Sure puts my turkey panini to shame.

Pierre's Restaurant - Islamorada

Prior to any trip we take, I always do my homework about the best places to dine. In Islamorada, the universally agreed upon restaurant of choice is Pierre's, at Mile Marker 81.6. For those unfamiliar with the Florida Keys, Islamorada is half way between Miami and Key West. Mile Markers are how the locals give directions, indicating how many miles one is from Key West.

Pierre's is housed in a white two story plantation house with blue shutters, set on an expansive white sand beach overlooking the Bay. The first floor veranda has dozens of oversized wicker chairs with comfortable pillows, an inviting spot to watch the spectacular sunsets while enjoying a cocktail. Inside, the decor is dark - plantation style - with rattan and wood furniture. If you are visiting from away, request a table outside on the second floor veranda to experience the Florida warmth. It is here that we enjoyed our first meal on the island.

We ordered glasses of chardonnay while we perused the dinner menu, a bright, clean, acidic '05 Charles Krug from Carneros ($13) and a well-structured, buttery'05 De Loach from Russian River Valley ($10). Full glasses are poured, without offering guests a taste before committing to the full glass. This is a huge pet peeve of mine, and while I recognize that it is easier and less time consuming for the waitstaff, it is not at all considerate to the patrons who may not care for the wine.

With our wine, we enjoyed the excellent bread, reminiscent in flavor of foccacia (olive oil and rosemary), with the consistency of a boule. It is made locally and delivered daily to the Restaurant.

The menu is extensive and filled with creative dishes, which made it difficult to choose our courses. I started with the Chilled Sweet Pea Soup, dramatically poured at the table into a bowl that held pea tendrils and thinly shaved slices of Pecorino Romano cheese($9). The bright green liquid was refreshing on the warm evening we dined; the pungent cheese was a sharp contrast to the sweet vegetable puree.

My husband's Shrimp Bisque ($10) was less of a hit. The center of the bowl held a chilled sweet Vermouth cream. The waiter poured the thin, lukewarm bisque around the cream and while the presentation was beautiful, the pairing of vermouth and cream was odd, the bisque would have been better served hot, and he would have preferred a thicker consistency.

We shared one of the specials of the evening, a Yellowfin Tuna Tartar with wakame salad, pickled ginger and wasabi soy sauce. The tuna was locally caught, finely chopped and melted in my mouth like butter. Super-fresh, it was best by itself without any accompaniment.

My husband's entree, the Pan Seared Snapper Filet ($35), was fresh from the Gulf and served with a roasted corn and jalapeno hash, set upon a decadent and rich grilled green onion butter sauce; the fish was topped with delicate and crispy fried onions.

The Restaurant's signature dish, the Tempura Lobster Tail ($40) consisted of two local Florida lobster tails, flash fried in a light tempura batter, set upon hearts of palm hash. Onions and peppers, sauteed in a sweet chili sauce graced the plate, as did dollops of soy glaze and wasabi crème fraiche for dipping. Accustomed to Maine lobster, Florida's local version is more delicate in texture and flavor, not nearly as rich or filling. The bartender paired an '06 Naia Spanish white wine ($9) with the dish, a superb selection that stood up against the fried lobster, sweet chili sauce and crunchy vegetables.

For dessert we selected the Baked Islamorada ($10), tart Key lime ice cream in a graham cracker crust, topped with meringue and set under the broiler just long enough to create a bronze hue on top. It was served with two sauces for dipping, raspberry and sweet cream. This was a dish of contrasts: the tart lime against the sweet graham cracker and cream, the frozen ice cream against the warm soft meringue. It was magnificent, particularly when paired with the creamy, tropical 2003 Chammare Jurancon Tradition ($10).

Pierre's dishes are classic French, with Asian and Caribbean influences. Local ingredients prevail in many of the Chef's creations, resulting in fresh, creative fare - the best I found in the Florida Keys. Watching the spectacular sunset from Pierre's second story veranda is the icing on the cake.

It's Time!

It's time to register for the Beach2Beacon. This year's race will be held on Saturday, August 2nd.

New this year, registrations will only be accepted on-line and tomorrow - March 15th - is the first day you can register (starting at 9 am). The field is expected to be filled within two weeks, so if you want to participate in this now-classic summer event, log on and register.

This year will be my 10th Beach2Beacon run....see you at the start!

Where in the World is Type A?

Any guesses where I am?

I'll hold back comments for a couple of days to give everyone a fair chance to speculate.

In the meantime, my Maine friends, stay warm!

Vignola - Portland, Maine

Vignola, Cinque Terre's sister restaurant, is located at the corner of Dana and Wharf Streets in Portland's Old Port.

They make it ultra easy to check availability and secure a reservation by subscribing to OpenTable.Com. I love this system and use it to book reservations all over the U.S. when I travel. Only a handful of Maine restaurants participate, and most limit the time slots you can book on line, a practice I just don't get.

We dined early at Vignola, wanting to enjoy a relaxing meal with friends before the Pink Martini concert. And while most of the tables were empty, the bar was packed with business men and women celebrating the end of the work week with a drink. The volume from the crowd was loud - really loud - making it difficult to hear my friends just across the table.

Service was slow. The waitress became a bit flustered when only half the table wanted sparkling water and the others wanted tap. Fifteen minutes later she returned with the waters, then disappeared before we could place our wine and beer orders. When she returned, she was helpful and knowledgeable about both the wine and Belgian beer selections, though not well versed on what they were out (they list a lot of beers, they don't stock quite as many).

I started with the 2005 Barbaresco Tufo Blu from Piedmont ($11.00/glass), a deep colored, full bodied, young red wine with balanced tannins. With our Belgian beer expert among us, my husband followed his lead and started with the Hoegaarden White Ale ($4.00), a pale colored beer with a light hop and citrus taste. The glasses used for wine are the thin lipped, delicate Riedel O, a distinctively stemless glass, while the Belgian beers are served in branded glasses, matched to the appropriate beer (classic European style).

I started with the Prosecco & Sweet Onion Soup, served with Provolone Cheese Crostini ($7). Exquisite! The caramelized onions tasted as though they had been simmering in the broth for hours. It was even better when scooped up with a piece of the charred, cheesy, crostini.

My husband selected the Raw Winter Point Oysters, served on ice with a shallot & horseradish mignonette ($15). The sauce was an exquisite balance between bold and sweet, enhancing the oysters without being overpowering. The oysters were extremely fresh, as high in quality as those at the Old Port Sea Grill, though the latter has a wider selection of mollusks and toppings.

Reminded by Nancy Engish's recent post that the Maine Shrimp Season is almost over, my husband and I shared the Crispy Maine Shrimp with radicchio, fresh oregano, house pickled hot peppers and smoked paprika aioli ($10). As the waitress set the colorful creation down on the table, the smell of fish hit my nose. The shrimp did not taste or smell fresh, nor were they crispy (though they were deep fried). The pickled house peppers and aioli were an interesting and tasty complement to the fried shrimp, the colorful radicchio added to the presentation, but completely overpowered the other ingredients.

If you're not a meat eater, the menu at Vignola is a bit limited. Appetizers are heavy on "Charcuterie & Salumi;" dinner options only included two seafood entrees: Scallops and Monkfish. I selected the Monkfish, a white fish that is dense and sweet, somewhat like Lobster. The fish, topped with a thick tomato aioli, was decadent and rich, though when tasted alone, did not taste as fresh as I prefer. The charred medallions were accompanied with chickpea ragu, kicked up a notch with curry powder, cumin and roasted fennel. Had the fish been fresher, this dish, with the array of flavors and textures, would have been rated excellent.

My friend ordered the Beef Cannoli and was pleased that it was not as heavy and rich as she was expecting. The beef had been diced and mixed with Ricotta cheese to create the pasta filling, the pasta itself was a bit crispy from time spent in the oven; it was topped with what she described as a "sweet port wine reduction" sauce with shallots and carrots.

The guys decided on pizza ($11) for their entrees. The Vignola, topped with mozzarella cheese, aged provolone cheese, cherry tomatoes, oregano and extra virgin olive was rather ho-hum. Though the cheese was pungent, the cherry tomatoes lacked flavor. The chef at Vignola should use Backyard Beauties, the deep red, luscious and flavorful tomatoes grown locally here in Maine. Chopped basil leaves might also have enhanced the thin-crusted pie. When I asked my friend to describe his sausage pizza for me, he responded that it was "tasty, filling and doesn't get in the way of a good beer." There you have it. The pizza accompanied an effervescent Tripel Abbey Belgiam Ale (750 ml. $17.00).

Too full for any more food, I selected an Espresso Martini, made with Stoli Vanilla, Starbucks Coffee, Cream Liquor and a double shot of Espresso ($10) for my "liquid dessert", while my husband and friends indulged in a selection of cheeses, dried fruit and nuts. Dinner and drinks for the four of us was $275, including the tip.

Vignola is a fun and lively gathering spot with an excellent Italian and French wine selection, as well as an extensive European and Belgian Beer assortment. There are several stand-out dishes, though the execution is not consistent across the menu. I would return for drinks and appetizers, but likely not for dinner. My choice for creative Italian in Portland is Bresca, while Ribollita garners my repeat business for its reliable Italian cuisine and neighborhood restaurant prices.

What a Deal! (Studio One Ltd.)

The best mani/pedi deal in town is at Studio One, located at 151 Middle Street in Portland.

$10 manicures (including French style) and $25 pedicures.

I'll admit I was skeptical. I figured that maybe it was a nail technician in training, or a mini version of the real thing. Not so.

The hour-long pedicure was the best I've had, complete with a Eucalyptus "foot mask"and half hour foot and leg massage. And unlike some of the larger spas in the area where the chairs are lined up in a row, with a dozen women getting pedicures alongside you, Studio One has created a quiet oasis - a dedicated room with a single massage chair, lit with a soft glow from the burning candles.

Treating yourself to an afternoon at the spa (for just $35) is an affordable - and enjoyable way to help get you through the remaining days of winter...

Opening Night at Evangeline

Erik Desjarlais is building excitement. It appears that Evangeline is opening April 4th 17th.

For the details, please read my opening night post.

Conga Line Breaks Out at Merrill (Pink Martini)

As China Forbes belted out "Brazil" from Pink Martini's debut album, Sympathique, fans formed a Conga Line and snaked through the aisles of Merrill Auditorium last night.

It was pure energy as the band from the "other Portland", Portland Oregon, performed their set, which included "Je ne veux pas travailler” (I don’t want to work), a perfect song for a Friday night after a long work week.

Even without their trombonist, (who was sick in the hotel room), the group gave a spirited, powerful, crowd pleasing performance. Thomas Lauderdale passionately pounded out tunes on the piano, expressive and full of personality in his performance. Gavin Bondy gave an equally stellar performance, demonstrating his skills on the trumpet.

The band sang in multiple languages throughout the evening, French, Italian and even Japanese. My favorite, "Hey Eugene," the cover track for their most recent album, is a song about a guy China met at a New York Party who asked her for her number and then never called.

It was impossible to sit still as the band played; through much of the set, audience members could be seen "seat dancing", tapping their feet, clapping, and a few brave souls were even dancing on the balcony. It's no wonder the conga line finally broke out.

It's not too late to catch a Pink Martini performance in the Northeast...they are performing tonight (3/8) at the Opera House in Boston.