On a recent Saturday night we met friends at the Frog & Turtle
, a "Gastro Pub" located at 3 Bridge Street in Westbrook. The owner, James Tranchemontagne, was the former Chef/Owner of Cafe Uffa (now closed), one of our favorite brunch spots over the years.
My friend had made reservations and we were promptly seated in a booth by the window. The atmosphere is "industrial casual" with exposed duct work, a neon Miller Beer sign hanging over the bar, and an eclectic mix of wooden tables and chairs. The center of the restaurant boasts several comfortable leather couches where patrons can wait for a table or enjoy a meal. Unlike the hip atmosphere at Local 188, the Frog & Turtle more grungy and pub like.
Out waiter was a bit out of sync with our needs the entire night. While pleasant and knowledgeable, he didn't appear at our table until 15 minutes after we arrived. He asked if we were interested in wine and we responded that we would likely order some with dinner. He automatically assumed that meant we didn't want any drinks and immediately launched into the dinner specials. When he finished the descriptions, he said he'd be back soon to take our orders. Fortunately, we caught him before he rushed off and explained that we did want drinks - just not wine - and placed our cocktail orders.
While we perused the menu, we sipped our drinks and munched on Italian bread served with soft, whipped butter. The menu is split between a 'Pub menu' with mostly burgers, pizzas, and fried appetizers and an 'Entree menu,' featuring soups, salads, appetizers, crepes, small plates and three entrees. I was puzzled by the menu, uncertain how many courses to order. While I was hungry enough for an entree, none of the three offered that night had appeal. Normally I would order two small plates and an appetizer, but the price points threw me off - small plates were priced in the $15-$18 range, typical entree prices for a pub style restaurant. As it turns out, the small plates should be renamed - they are anything but small!
For our appe
tizers, my husband and I shared the Grilled Shrimp Skewers ($10) and the Cajun Style Fish Cakes ($18). Our friends also selected the Grilled Shrimp and the Fried Calamari ($10). I thought the Grilled Shrimp, crusted in brown sugar, might be too sweet, but the addition of cumin and lime balanced the sweetness perfectly. The accompanying mango fruit salsa had a bit of tang, enhancing the char-grilled shrimp. This was by far the standout dish of the evening, though my friend declared his Fried Calamari- served over charred greens and tossed with a lime dipping sauce - some of the best he has had.
The Cajun Style Fish Cakes ($18), made with a combination of haddock, shrimp and salmon, were served over charred greens with a spicy creole cream sauce. As the waiter promised, the sauce gave the dish a nice kick. The combination of the three fish gave the cakes immense flavor; unfortunately, the cakes were thick and had an odd, almost doughy consistency. Everything is advertised as made fresh to order at the Frog & Turtle, but these tasted as though they had been pre-made and frozen.
I shouldn't have ordered the Arugula salad ($8), as I was already too full from the appetizers, but I simply couldn't pass up the fresh greens. This salad was huge, enough for at least two - if not three people to share and was tossed with orange segments, avocado, roasted shallots, and honey vinaigrette. The toasted sunflower seeds sprinkled on top were a fantastic ad
dition.
For his entree, my husband ordered the Blackened Catfish crepe ($15), which was beautifully presented. The catfish itself was void of flavor, though the charred watercress gave it a smokey flavor, while the blend of hot sauce and garlic aioli gave it a wonderful kick, adding creaminess to the ingredients.
My friend's Beef Short Rib ($19) - a small plate - was huge. A mound of mashed potatoes was topped with another mound of short ribs that had been rubbed with a house-made BBQ sauce and slow roasted. She could only manage to eat about a third of the ribs and requested the remainder to be packaged to bring home.
My Poached Salmon ($17) - another small plate, was also entree size. Paired with greens that were much too bitter to eat, the fish was set upon jasmine rice and topped with a thick, sticky sweet pineapple ginger glaze that unfortunately, overpowered the taste of the salmon.
Dessert menus were presented and the waiter asked if we would like drink refills. I asked for a decaf cappuccino and was told that their espresso machine was broken; my friend opted for a cup of coffee. We were too full to each order our own dessert,
which presented a dilemma. I was in the mood for chocolate, my husband wanted the Maine blueberry pie. Like a good husband, he conceded to the chocolate. The waiter, overhearing our discussion, brought him a tiny bowl of the blueberry pie filling - a nice touch, well received by my husband.
Flourless Dark Chocolate Torte ($8) was served with a deliciously creamy espresso anglaise, raspberry coulis, and milk chocolate pudding. It was a bit dry for my taste, and not as rich as I prefer. My friends thoroughly enjoyed their classically prepared Crème Brûlée ($6), topped with Caramelized Bananas ($1 surcharge).
The Frog & Turtle lives up to its self-description, "a neighborhood spot that has good fresh food." I particularly love that Chef Tranchemontagne is not afraid to add heat and spice to his dishes. You'll find greater culinary skill in many of Portland's restaurants, though the Frog & Turtle is a nice addition to the restaurant scene for the locals in Westbook.
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Frog and Turtle - Westbrook, Maine
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Labels: Dining, Frog and Turtle Review, Maine American Cuisine Restaurants, Maine Dining, Westbrook Dining
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Local 188 - Portland, ME
Maybe it was because our expectations were set really low (based on a number of poor reviews
). Or maybe it was because we were with friends we hadn't seen in awhile. Or perhaps the staff has finally recovered from their move across the street, and resolved the service issues. Whatever it was, we had a fantastic Saturday evening at Local 188
.
I knew it would be a great night the moment I set foot in the door at Local 188's new location on Congress Street and saw Joe (formerly of Evangaline) tending bar. He's only there on Saturday nights, so plan accordingly if you're a fan of his drinks - or his humor - or both.
The interior of Local 188 is huge, but the owner has done a nice job creating various "spaces." Depending on your mood, and how full the restaurant is, you can choose to dine a
t the bar, at couches or little cafe-style tables in the lounge area, at the bar overlooking the kitchen, at tables in the dining room portion of the restaurant, or in a booth.
We had made reservations earlier that same day and were seated at a table in the dining room area. We were greeted by our waitress (Mariah), who offered to take our drink orders. We had chosen Local 188 because the men in the group were in the mood for beer, and Local 188 has quite a diverse selection. Unfortunately, they don't serve these beers in branded glass. Rather tiny chilled juice glasses are served with the bottle (pint glasses were also offered, but were not chilled so we declined). In Belgium almost every type of beer is served in its own type of branded glass and although a brand name on a glass will not impart any difference to the taste of the beer, the shape sometimes does have an influence. Vignola, Fuel and even the Frog & Turtle all have branded glasses; it would be a nice enhancement at Local 188.
Our waitress waited patiently as the men debated over their selection, finally deciding on the La Goudale
from France. The self-described beer snob in the group described this beer as a
perfect balance of hops and sweetness, full bodied and well structured. A mojito for me and a glass of Prosecco for my friend, and our drink order was complete. Then came the hard part. What to order for dinner.
Known for their tapas, we were surprised that only dinner menus were offered, though when my husband inquired about tapas, our waitress brought over that menu, as well. Just when we thought we had decided what to order, our waitress rattled off at least a dozen additional specials. They should really have a chalkboard or supplemental menu for the specials; there were so many that by the time she had finished describing them all, we had to ask her to repeat the ones she had talked about first.
While we waited for our first course, we were presented with cubes of soft foccacia bread served with delicious roasted garlic cloves swimming in olive oil. The treat from the kitchen that evening was a colorful plate of ratatouille with fresh, crisp yellow and green beans.
My appetizer, a creamy corn, sweet potato and chipolte soup was fantastic. The chipolte
gave it a bit of a smokey kick while Moroccan spices added wonderful flavor. The grilled whole wheat flatbread was addictive - topped with olive oil and roasted fennel and carrots.
My husband started with the Moroccan spiced fried egg that was served over-easy with basil, tomato and slices of flatbread intended for scooping up the other ingredients.
The olives, ordered from the tapas menu, increased in heat as we worked our way down the bowl; the bottom layer was spiced with coriander and chili. "Heaven on top, and hell on the bottom," was how my friend (who doesn't appreciate spicy food) described the olives.
The men ordered their second beer, the Gulden Draak
, to accompany the entrees. They described it as a "fine beer," less hoppy than the La Goudate, and a bit more sweet.
My husband took me by surprise and ordered a bunch of appetizers and tapas, rather than an entree. His salt cod cakes were very salty and too mushy for any of our tastes, though we enjoyed th
e accompanying smoked paprika remoulade. The locally foraged mushrooms were fabulous - juicy, meaty and sauteed with garlic and sherry. The shrimp and garlic, also from the tapas menu, were rather ordinary. I prefer shrimp char-grilled as opposed to sauteed.
The fish special of the evening was bluefish - a strong flavored and somewhat oily fish from South Africa Rhode Island. The bluefish was moist and prepared to my friend's liking, served with a dill and creme fraiche sauce, sauteed greens, roasted potatoes and grilled baby carrots.
The chef accommodated my request to add shrimp to the linguine entree, which was tossed with marinated artichoke hearts, warm greens, tomatoes, capers and feta cheese. This dish was plenty for two to share.
We were all too full for dessert, but not wanting the evening to end, we decided to indulge, if only so the men could try a dessert beer, the Chimay Cinq Cents Tripel Ale
. Triple fermented with a strong bite, it had incredible body.
I was disappointed to learn that they were out of the lemon pudding cake that evening, but the substitute dessert was amazing. A toasted coconut cheesecake with a touch of amaretto was deliciously creamy and not too sweet. My friend's chocolate torte looked amazing and was incredibly dense, but dry and lacking the intense chocolate flavor I look for in a tort.
Our portion - five appetizers, one tapas, one entree, one dessert, two mojitos and half of the b
eer tab - was $98 - a fair price for the amount of food and alcohol consumed. Of course, we left a good-sized tip because Mariah provided such exquisite service - intuitive, yet not intrusive.
The atmosphere at Local 188 is fun and party like; the cuisine is creative and well prepared. Everyone in the restaurant seemed to be having a good time and there were many large groups the night we dined. With Johnny Cash playing in the background and laughter filling the air, it is not a place I would choose to dine for a date night. Rather it is a spot I would gather with friends or co-workers knowing I could let my hair down, talk at loud decibels and laugh out loud, without feeling as though I were disturbing other diners.
I will definitely return to Local 188.
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Labels: Local 188 Review, Maine American Cuisine Restaurants, Maine Dining, Portland Maine Dining
Thursday, August 21, 2008
Low Fat Potato Salad
My husband loves potato salad. His favorite is made from a recipe that I have adapted from one that appeared in Cooking Light years ago.
I particularly like this recipe because the dressing does not contain mayonnaise, so you don't have to worry about it spoiling when you bring it on a picnic or set it out at a barbecue.
Potato Salad
6 cups quartered small red potatoes
1/4 c finely chopped red onion
3 tbsp finely chopped parsley
2 tbsp finely chopped chives
2 hard boiled eggs, finely chopped
1/2 c red wine vinegar
4 tbsp olive oil
2 1/2 tsp salt
4 tsp Dijon mustard
1/3 tsp ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves minced
Place potatoes in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes or until tender when pierced with a fork. Drain; cool for 15 minutes. Place in a large bowl. Add onion, parsley, chives and eggs.
Whisk together the vinegar, olive oil, salt, mustard, pepper and garlic. Pour half of the dressing over the potato mixture and toss gently to combine. Chill for at least 8 hours. Toss with additional dressing to taste before serving. It's even better the second day, once the flavors have had time to meld together.
Bon Appetit!
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
Mmmm....Mushrooms
I've been craving trumpet mushrooms for weeks - ever since I had them in an appetizer at Bresca. So when I spotted them at Whole Foods, along with a plethora of other mushroom varieties, I decided to take advantage of my find and make a mushroom pizza for dinner.
I combined sliced trumpet mushrooms with locally foraged chantrelles, shiitakes, cremini, lobster and oyster mushroom
s, sauteed them in a bit of olive oil, added a dash of salt and a splash of sherry, and spread them atop my homemade pizza dough. I finished the pizza with a sprinkle of chopped fresh thyme, a little salt & pepper, and a generous amount of wonderfully aged fontina cheese.
Voila! A pizza to satisfy the most intense mushroom craving!
Sunday, August 17, 2008
The Lobster Shack - Cape Elizabeth, Maine
If you want to experience classic seaside Maine at its best, head to the Lobster Shack
at the end of Two Lights Road in Cape Elizabeth. It's been years since I dined there, simply because I don't ever think to go. Thankfully, a suggestion from one of my readers, and an article written by Nancy English
, reminded me to return, if only for the spectacular setting. 
Arriving just before noon, we beat the lunchtime crowds - barely. As we stood in the short line, contemplating our order, we noted the prominent "Zero Trans Fat" signage on the menu and commented how good the fried clams sounded. When it was our turn to order, predictably, I went for the Lobster Roll with Onion Rings, while my husband ordered the Lobster Roll Boat, which includes crinkle cut fries and cole slaw. A Poland Spring water to share completed our order, which totaled $40. A steep price tag for lunch, but look at the view!
Though it was a bit cool and foggy the day we dined, we skipped the inside dining room and headed outside to wait for our order. We sat down at one of the red picnic tables, watched the crashing surf, and listened to the sound of the fog horn. I felt like I was on vacation a million miles from home.
Our number was called fewer than ten minutes after placing our order. My husband guarded our picnic table while I claimed our lunch. It's not easy juggling a tray of food while pumping tartar sauce and ketchup into little plastic cups, but I somehow managed and made it back to our table.
The first bite of the lobster roll revealed a heavily buttered bun, just barely toasted. Diced iceburg lettuce lined the bottom of the lobster-filled bun. Mayonnaise is not mixed in, rather a generous dollop is placed atop the lobster, and dusted with a paprika. We both deemed the rolls better than
those at Harrasekeet Lunch & Lobster, with better quality mayo and fresher tasting lobster. I would suggest using a lighter hand with the butter, toasting the bun longer, and asking patrons if they would like the mayo mixed with the lobster.
My husband's accompanying fries were crisp outside, soft in the middle and served piping hot. Cooked in fresh oil - without trans fats - they had a wonderful golden hue. The onion rings had a delicate batter and were similarly well prepared. Next time I would skip the slaw, which was sweet and watery; I prefer mine crisp and tart.
So where does the Lobster Shack rank in my quest for the Best Lobster Rolls in Southern Maine? It's not as good as the Old Port Sea Grill
, Leavitt & Sons, or the The Dry Dock
, but better than Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster. Of course I have not told you about THE absolute best lobster roll I have ever had - right here in Portland Maine. More to come in a later post...
If you're visiting Maine, The Lobster Shack is a "must do" simply for the experience. Order the lobster dinner, grab a picnic table perched above the crashing surf, tie on a bib and enjoy! For locals, you'll find better seafood elsewhere, but on a hot summer night it's fun to dine on the rocks, admire the rugged coastline, and let the butter drip down your chin.
Bon Appetit!
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Labels: Cape Elizabeth Restaurants, Dining, Lobster, Maine Dining, Maine Lobster Rolls, Maine Seafood Restaurants
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Intrigue Cafe at the Boston Harbor Hotel
One of my favorite summer lunch spots is the Intrigue Cafe
patio at the Boston Harbor Hotel.
Like most of our lunches at the Boston Harbor, our most recent visit followed a morning shopping expedition on Newbury Street; we arrived hot, tired and famished! We settled into our chairs beneath our umbrella-topped table and were quickly mesmerized by the beautiful view of the harbor.
Our waitress brought a waxed-paper lined cone filled with slices of Italian bread, cheesy bread sticks and soft butter to the table for us to share as we perused the menu. Celebrating the beautiful weather - or whatever else I could think of - I indulged in a glass of Piper Heidsieck
champagne, while my husband opted for a glass of fresh-brewed iced tea.
From past visits, I know to avoid the guacamole and house-made chips - which sound tempting, but the guacamole is disappointingly bland. Instead, we shared the Pan Seared Crab, Salmon & Cod Cakes ($15.50), which were delicious. Lightly fried, thick and flavorful from the blend of three fish, the cakes were served piping hot. The accompanying radicchio added a nicely contrasting bitter taste, while the remoulade was enhanced by the flavor of smoked tomatoes.
Preferring something on the lighter side, I ordered the Nicoise Salad ($19.50). Bitter frisee was topped with rare yellowfin tuna, hard boiled eggs, pitted black olives, french green beans, new potatoes, and a sherry shallot vinaigrette ($19.50). My husband's choice, the Smoked Turkey Club ($16.50), was served on white rye bread. Neither of us expected the gigantic sandwich that arrived -piled high with bibb lettuce, sliced yellow tomato, sharp cheddar cheese and black olive tapenade.
Plenty for two to share, it was served with giant kosher pickle and a side of the most delicious pasta Caesar salad, prepared with an abundance of grated Parmesan cheese. I could eat this pasta salad by the gallon!
While I wouldn't go out of my way to dine inside at the Intrigue Cafe (except for Holiday Tea), on a sunny, warm day, there is no better spot to enjoy the beautiful views of Boston Harbor, and classic, well prepared cuisine.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Haggarty's - Portland, Maine
In a past post, I lamented about the lack of quality Indian restaurants in Portland. The best Indian I have ever experienced was in London. Unlike the traditionally mushy texture of Indian food in the States, in London you find crisp vegetables, fresh fish, fragrant fresh herbs and an abundance of creativity.
At that time, one of my readers suggested I try Haggarty's
for their Brit-Indi takeout. I'm sorry I waited so long to take her advice. Located at 849 Forest Avenue, Haggarty's is a bit out of my way, but on a recent Monday night, I finally took the plunge. I phoned in my order before leaving work and was told it would be ready in 25 minutes. I hit every single light on Forest Avenue, and still arrived in fewer than 15 minutes; my order was just being put together. Perfect timing and much faster than cooking.
As I waited the few minutes it took to ring up my order, I was surprised at how cute and clean the interior of the tiny space was. I would be tempted to return for lunch to dine at one of the two tables, just so I could try the cuisine fresh from the kitchen.
Our at-home Brit-Indi feast started with the "Mixed Platter," a sampling of each of the appetizers on the menu. The Vegetable Pakora was our favorite; onion, potato and spinach were combined together with Indian spices, then deep fried in a chick pea batter. The combination of flavors and spice was magnificent. The deep fried Mushroom Pakora did not hold up as well on the trek home; the grease had saturated through the batter making the mushrooms a bit mushy. The Chicken Chaat, char-grilled chicken wings marinated in spiced yogurt were rather ordinary, while the Chicken Pakor, chicken marinated in Punjabi spices, was moist and had a
fantastic kick.
I wouldn't recommend ordering the Garlic Naan for take-out. Wrapped in brown paper, the grease seeped right through. The bread was barely warm when I arrived home, and it's just not the same without the variety of chutneys normally served with the bread.
Entrees come with a choice of chicken, beef, vegetables, lamb, shrimp, paneer (salty semi-hard cheese) or channa (spiced chickpeas). We ordered the Karahi Bhoona with vegetables, the Masala with chicken and the Patia with Shrimp. Each entree was enough to serve two people (we had lots of leftovers!) and came with a generous portion of aromatic basmati rice. The Masala, a blend of Indian herbs, spices, green peppers, onions and yogurt, was one of the best v
ersions of the sauce that we've tried. The Karahi Bhoona was a blend of spices, ginger, basil, green peppers and onions. Creamy and well spiced, this was my favorite entree of the evening. The Patia with shrimp, pureed mango, tomatoes, lemon, ginger, garlic and peppers, was our least favorite of the three, but only because it wasn't as interestingly spiced as the other dishes.
Our order - three entrees, an appetizer and a side of naan - was $45 and enough for five or six people. When I order next, I'll skip the fried items and bread (which are really best when piping hot) and stick with the entrees. Haggerty's is a gem in Portland and one I'm glad I finally discovered for their exceptional Brit Indi cuisine.
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Labels: Dining, Haggarty's Review, Maine Indian Restaurants, Portland Maine Dining
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Joel Robuchon - Las Vegas
With Three-Stars from Michelin, Five Stars from Mobil, Five Diamonds from AAA, and the number 5 position on Gourmet's Top 50 List, it is easy to understand why Joel Robuchon
was the highlight of our culinary experiences while in Las Vegas. 
Joel Robuchon announced his retirement in 1996 - at the height of his career - having made his mark at the critically acclaimed, Jamin, in Paris. Three years into retirement, he was named "Cook of the Century" by GaultMillau, one of the most influential French restaurant guides. He came out of retirement in 2005 to open two restaurants at the MGM Grand: L'atelier de Joel Robuchon and Joel Robuchon at the Mansion. Chef Robuchon rarely cooks at his signature restaurants; the night we dined, Executive Chef Claude
Le Tohic was in the kitchen executing each dish flawlessly.
You'd never know you were only steps from the MGM Grande casino floor once you enter Joel Robuchon. A dramatic black and white marble floor gives way to the main dining room with 17-foot ceilings and Parisan decor. Turquoise and white Irish linens, turquoise water goblets and tasteful electric battery powered candles added a bit of whimsy to the otherwise formal atmosphere.
We settled into the purple velour banquettes for what was to be a four and half hour dining experience. We were surprised that the tasting menu did not have accompanying wine pairings, though I am sure the sommelier would have accommodated such a request. Instead we ordered two bottles of wine - an '04 Mariman Estate Dom Miguel Vineyard
Pinot Noir recommended by the sommelier, and one of our favorites, an '03 L'ecole 41 Savignon/Semillion blend.
We made rather conservative choices, knowing that these wines would not interfere with the food; both wines paired well with the wide array of flavors we sampled that night.
Piano music played softly in the background as we anxiously awaited the first of our sixteen courses. The presentation of the white asparagus "panna cotta " was spectacular. A glass bowl was filled with dry ice that released a steaming vapor around the
inset bowl holding the panna cotta. Paired with a roasted tomato puree and topped with crunchy fresh almonds and slivers of tart lemon grass, I knew after just a single bite that we were in for a unforgettable evening!
The bread cart was rolled to our table and the steward described at least two dozen different types breads and rolls. The choices were so abundant that by the time he finished explaining them, I had forgotten most of the ones he described at the beginning! We ended up with a sampling of Gruyere brioche (my favorite), milk bread (my husband's favorite), olive baguette, rosemary brioche, and a mini baguette
A "salad" of tomato, olive
oil and basil was paired with a tomato gelée topped with mozzarella cheese. While many of the key ingredients used at the restaurant are flown in daily from France, Joel Robuchon deals directly with a producer in California to obtain the Japanese tomatoes that are used in this dish. Ripe and delicious, a single tomato was simply dressed with black pepper, mozzarella, olive oil and basil. A black plate held clear tomato juice gelee "dotted" with mozzarella that was topped with even smaller dots of tomato puree. It looked like a hundred little eyeballs looking up at me. I can't even imagine how long - and with what precision - it took to prepare this course.
The Couscous with Oscetra caviar, cauliflower cream, and asparagus gelee first premiered in Joel Robuchon's Paris restaurant. Lobster broth added a rich and buttery flavor to the cauliflower cream, while dried tuna flakes added a smokey contrast to the salty caviar. Each element of this dish was bold and intense, yet blended beautifully together.
A quail egg yolk with ricotta cheese was encased in a delicate pasta to create the ravioli that was presented next. Served with meaty morels and parsley foam, this dish was sublime, particularly when paired with the Pinot Noir.
The velouté, one of the four Carême mother sauces
of French cuisine, was a classically thin broth that held fresh peas, and was top
ped with mint, sweet onion custard and caviar. "Le Thon," a smoked and seared Tuna, was sliced so thin, it was nearly translucent. Served with cauliflower, Nori and green curry, this dish was wonderfully spicy.
The Truffle Langoustine Ravioli with a Foie Gras Butter Sauce was decadent and rich. Deviating slightly from Joel Robuchon's signature dish, it was served with a shrimp dumpling, Japanese radish, finely sliced fennel and potato puree, inventively flavored with hints of coffee, coral and ginger perfumed tea.
Salty king crab, baby mushroom and fresh peas were served in a delicate coriander-infused broth, while my husband's scallops were served Royal style.
Similar to a chowder, the dish was given appropriate structure and flavor with the addition of buckwheat curd and chive emulsion.
Buttery sea bass with asparagus and lemongrass, was followed by a spectacular presentation of sea urchin with potato puree. Each item in the vegetable course - a medley of artichokes, morels, asparagus, baby zucchini, cauliflower and green beans - was perfectly cooked, al dente style. "Les Pousses de Soja," - soy beans cooked "risotto style" - was fabulous. Tiny, crisp
soy nuggets were combined with specks of morels, sweet caramelized onion, zesty lemon and coriander.
The first dessert, a creamy red fruit, fresh raspberry and yogurt sorbet was topped with crunchy pistachio. Refreshing, it was as the perfect buffer between the savory and sweet courses. The chocolate "puffed" rice souffle that arrived next held a decadent car
amel crémeux infused with coffee, and was topped with chewy dates and golden raisins.
The tasting menu at Joel Robuchon is an endurance test, meant only for the most serious culinary aficionados. Four and half hours, two bathroom breaks and two bottles of wine later, we had finished all sixteen glorious courses.
Too full, for another bite, we couldn't pass up the dessert cart, presented at our table in all of its glory. We selected a few treats "to go" and enjoyed them on the plane ride home the next day. We were also sent home with a complimentary spice cake,
which I carefully guarded, practically pouncing on the passengers who tried to put anything else in the same overhead compartment as my prized Joel Robuchon cake.
We had a few months lead time in planning our trip to Vegas, which was a good thing because it took my husband about that long to adjust to the idea of spending $385 per person on the Joel Robuchon tasting menu (before alcohol and tip). It was only when our favorite local French chef, Erik Desjarlais, proclaimed Joel Robuchon the
"the buddha of all chefs...the matriarch" that he even agreed to go. By the time we arrived at the restaurant, the shock had worn off - or at least he had stopped hyperventilating. At the end of the evening he had come full circle (the wine helped), declaring the experience well worth the money.
The perfect combination of gastronomic excellence and culinary artistry, an evening at Joel Robuchon is a unique and unforgettable experience. The service is classic Mobil 5-Star, exceptional without being stuffy; the cuisine is executed in traditional French style with a contemp
orary and creative flair; the atmosphere is refined and intimate.
By far the best restaurant in Vegas, Joel Robuchon ranks a very close second to Alinea
, and is one of only a handful of restaurants I would fly to as a destination.
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Labels: 2006 Gourmet Magazine Top 50 American Restaurants, Dining, Joel Robuchon Review, Las Vegas Restaurants
