Spago - Beverly Hills, California

Our last day in Los Angeles was all glam. A VIP tour of the Universal Studios Back Lot (where we spotted Vince Vaughn and the cast of Desperate Housewives), shopping on Rodeo Drive, and dinner at the famed Spago restaurant completed the day.

We dined at Spago the last time we were in Beverly Hills, several years ago. And though we prefer not to repeat restaurants when we travel, I just had to give it another try. Ranked #4 in the country on Gourmet’s Top Restaurant List, Spago has earned two stars from The Michelin Guide and the Outstanding Service Award from the James Beard Foundation; chef/owner, Wolfgang Puck has received the James Beard Award for Outstanding Chef, among numerous other accolades and awards.

Known as one of the pioneers of fusion cuisine, Puck gained recognition for blending Asian and French styles with California ingredients. He opened his first Spago in 1982 on Sunset Strip, and the Beverly Hills location in 1997. Since then, he has amassed an empire consisting of 15 fine dining restaurants, catering services, airport-express operations, kitchen equipment, canned foods, and cookbooks.

We arrived at Spago and were quickly greeted and shown to our table. Our seats afforded us a dead-on view of the dozens of cooks working behind the large glass windows in the kitchen, one of the room’s focal points. The other, is the open-air courtyard (where the stars are typically seated), lit with tiny Christmas lights wrapped around tall tree trunks.

My husband asked our waiter for a white ale to enjoy as he reviewed the menu. The waiter returned with “a new kind of ale” that had just arrived at Spago – Portland, Maine’s very own Allagash White! He felt right at home sipping his favorite beverage.

The menu at Spago changes daily; on the night we dined there were so many intriguing options that we had great difficulty deciding what to order. My husband hit the jackpot with his Celery Root Apple Soup ($19). Topped with chopped porcini mushrooms, roasted apples and cipollini onions, the soup was the perfect blend of apple and celery – neither flavor dominated. Smooth and silky, it must have passed through a chinois at least a dozen times. The bread steward offered us our choice of French, olive, sourdough or cheese/onion bread and we used it to sop up every last bit of my husband’s soup.

My appetizer, Wild Oregon Porcini Mushrooms with house-made Bigoli pasta ($19), was also delicious. Pasta, the shape and consistency of soba noodles, was tossed with roasted butternut squash, porcini mushrooms, pine nuts, bok choy, herbs, and a light Asian oil.

As we were waiting for our entrees, Spago’s owner and celebrity chef, Wolfgang Puck stopped by our table. Thinner and younger than he appears on television, Chef Puck spent several minutes chatting with us and promised to return to autograph his latest cookbook. He made the rounds, greeting other stunned guests at nearby tables. Then, true to his word, he circled back, sat down, signed the book and talked about his favorite restaurants (Daniel in New York is at the top of the list). He went on to reveal that although he normally abhors long, drawn out meals, (preferring no more than five courses when he dines out), he makes an exception for Chef Grant Achatz from Alinea, who he describes as the most talented “young” chef in America.

When Wolfgang excused himself, we returned to our meal. My husband took the waiter’s suggestion and enjoyed the “Hong Kong” style Steamed Florida Red Snapper ($37). Fresh and perfectly cooked, the snapper was served with baby carrots, bok choy, snap peas, jasmine rice and a sweet soy sauce flavored with chili oil and ginger. The flavors of this seafood dish were bold enough to stand up well to the smooth Burgundy wine pairing ($18) that our waiter had recommended. My Wild Alaskan Halibut ($39) was the thickest cut of Halibut I have seen, and not quite as tender as the fillets to which I am accustomed. The fish was served atop a delicious puree of yellow turnips and sweet red wine lobster sauce; the dish was garnished with tiny chunks of Maine lobster, roasted fall root vegetables and sweet onions.

We ordered a cappuccino and the "Kaiserschmarren" - Crème Fraîche Souffle Pancakes ($16) with fresh strawberries - to share for dessert. Image our surprise when three desserts were brought to our table – all courtesy of Wolfgang Puck who wanted us to try his favorites! In addition to the light, fluffy pancakes, there was a twelve layer chocolate praline torte with chocolate sorbet (my favorite), and the fall "crumble" with quince ice cream and fresh berries. So much for our light dessert!

Wolfgang Puck's vision has withstood the test of time. The Spago Beverly Hills restaurant attracts tourists, locals, and celebrities alike. The service is refined, the atmosphere sophisticated, yet the restaurant lacks any sense of formality. The cuisine at Spago is creative, celebrating fresh ingredients, with great execution. While the cuisine at other restaurants, such as Alinea and
The French Laundry, is more artful than you’ll find at Spago, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant features the finest in California cuisine, and deserves its number 4 ranking on Gourmet’s Top Restaurant list.

Grand Central Market - Los Angeles, CA

We took a break from our heavy meals and wandered over to the Grand Central Market for lunch our third day in Los Angeles.

The oldest and largest open air market in L.A., the Grand Central market showcases the wares of more than 38 merchants selling fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, poultry, fish, candies, nuts and herbs from around the world. An internationally diverse array of food vendors feature Mexican, Chinese, Japanese, El Salvadorean, Hawaiian and American fare, making it a popular lunch time gathering spot, as well as market destination.

With the hustle and bustle of the locals and tourists alike, the Grand Central Market is as busy as the Reading Terminal Market in Pennsylvania, though not nearly as large or as clean. As an open air market (without air conditioning), inside it was hot and stuffy, with an abundance of flies tempted by the food and aromas. With saw dust covering the floor, it's not the most appetizing spot to eat, but we had heard about the legendary tacos and were not turning back until we gave them a try.

We stood in line at Anna Maria's and when it was our turn, ordered our tacos ($2.50 ea). We watched as roasted chicken was diced, then piled on soft white corn tortillas and topped with onions, chili peppers, hot sauce, cilantro and lime wedges. We started salivating in anticipation of our first bite. Drippy and delicious, the tacos could only have been improved with the addition of guacamole, salsa and sour cream (which we will know to order the next time).

Tempted to go back for more tacos, instead we decided to join the crowds in line at the China Cafe. We were fortunate to obtain stools at the crowded counter and ordered Mongolian Shrimp ($6), Fried Shrimp Chop Suey ($4.07) and Egg Noodles ($2.75). The Egg Noodles, served in a bowl of chicken broth, were overcooked and starchy, and the Chop Suey had too much bok choy for my taste, but the Mongolian Shrimp was definitely worth the wait! Crisp, fresh peppers, onions and scallions were stir fried with shrimp, rice and a Mongolian sauce. As I looked around the counter, it was this dish - made with patrons' choice of shrimp, chicken or beef - that most everyone was enjoying.

Though we were full, we meandered around the market for awhile longer, and grabbed a Chocolate Shake from The Tropical Zone Ice Cream & Juice Bar to enjoy on our walk back to the hotel. The Grand Central Market is definitely worth checking out when visiting L.A. if only to sample the ethnic foods, people watch, and enjoy an inexpensive meal.

On the Road Again

Any guesses?

The Pickled Onion, Bermuda

Front Street in Bermuda has not escaped the fate of change. Cruise ships are now prohibited from docking in downtown Hamilton, Triningham’s Department Store no longer exists, and my favorite sushi restaurant, the Harbourfront, has moved to the far end of Front Street, a rather long walk from the shops. So when hunger struck during our shopping expedition in Hamilton, we were forced to try something new for lunch and stopped in at The Pickled Onion.

Not much of a looker from the outside, I've passed The Pickled Onion at least a dozen times, always in favor of other dining establishments. But when we climbed the stairs to the second floor restaurant, we were pleasantly surprised with the modern and contemporary décor. The Pickled Onion has a large porch overlooking Front Street and Hamilton Harbor, though we opted for a table inside the air conditioned restaurant.

We ordered iced tea and Perrier to quench our thirst, then shared an order of Crab & Shrimp Cakes ($13). Made with lump crab meat and baby shrimp, the cakes were moist and flavorful, and served with a spicy lemongrass peanut sauce, basmati rice and sautéed baby vegetables.

My husband selected the Grilled Mahi Mahi Sandwich ($15). Topped with an amazing rum and pickled onion marmalade, the fish was served on a hearty roll with delicious spicy fries. My Jerk Chicken Wrap ($14) consisted of a tomato wrap filled with well-spiced tender chicken, mango cream cheese (which tempered the spice of the chicken), spinach, red onion and jack cheese. The wrap was served with a side of much too oily pesto pasta salad that I pushed aside in favor of my husband’s fries.

Too full for dessert, we paid the tab ($60.95) and continued on our way, vowing to return the next time we are in Bermuda. The Pickled Onion is a “cheap eat” (yes, $60 for lunch is reasonable for Bermuda), featuring updated pub food in a fun, casual atmosphere. Filled with locals and tourists alike, it’s a perfect spot to enjoy lunch, or a drink and appetizer after a hard day of shopping.

David's 388 - South Portland, Maine

David’s 388 is a cozy neighborhood restaurant housed in the former location of Barbara’s Kitchen on Cottage Road in South Portland. I’ve driven by countless times on my way to and from Scratch Bakery, each time thinking that I should make a reservation for dinner. On a recent Saturday I finally made the call and was able to secure two seats at the Chef’s Counter for that same evening.

The tiny restaurant seats approximately 36 patrons, mostly at tables, though there are four seats at the bar and another four at the Chef’s counter. A double door at the entrance keeps the chilly night air away from the patrons. Inside, the restaurant is warm and comfortable, with painted tin ceilings, big band music playing in the background, friendly wait staff, and a feeling of laid back sophistication.

We took our seats on stools at the Chef’s counter overlooking the small, yet highly efficient kitchen and were warmly greeted by the chef. A graduate of Southern Maine Community College just down the street, Chef de Cuisine, Bo Bryne, has been cooking with David Turin (owner) for more than seven years. Sitting at the Chef’s Counter is highly entertaining, particularly if you enjoy cooking or watching the techniques of others. We were able to witness each course as it was prepared and ask questions of the Chef.

We ordered drinks and perused the menu, briefly contemplating the tasting menu ($39pp) with wine pairing ($59). Instead we ordered a la carte, though my husband did ask our waitress (who was doubling as the bartender) to pair wines with his courses.

For my first course, I selected the Crispy Duck Pot Stickers ($8). Served crispy and piping hot, the wonton shells were filled with tender duck, shredded cabbage and carrots. The accompanying diced apricots and sweet and tangy Peking sauce were perfect complements to the pot stickers, the standout dish of the evening.

My husband’s lobster, scallop and sweet potato cakes ($8) were well prepared, crispy on the outside and soft and moist in the middle. Topped with a roasted red pepper sauce that had just the perfect amount of heat and lime essence, the cakes were excellent, though the lobster flavor was completely masked by the other ingredients.

The waitress forgot to bring my husband’s requested wine pairing until he was nearly finished with his appetizer. Fortunately, the Liberty School Chardonnay ($8.75) she delivered paired adequately with his next course, the Arugula Salad ($8). Topped with crumbled blue cheese, spiced pecans, currants and a sweet balsamic dressing, unfortunately the ingredients were not evenly disbursed (the toppings were concentrated in the middle of the plate) and the greens were too lightly dressed.

My salad, the special of the evening, was also a disappointment. Prepared ahead of time and stored in the refrigerator, the salad, comprised of mozzarella, tomato, avocado, cucumber and basil, was served much too cold, robbing the ingredients of flavor. The next time I dine at David’s 388 I will opt for the Caesar salad which appears to be made to order.

Most of the “main” courses on the menu are a bit larger than appetizer sized portions (and priced accordingly), allowing diners to sample three courses and still have room for dessert. There are a few “entrée” plates, one of which I selected – the Grilled Atlantic Salmon ($24). Topped with a lemon herb butter, and served with braised spinach and risotto, half of the salmon was cooked to perfection, while the other half was overdone. Risotto is typically one of my favorite sides, though I was disappointed with this version which was made with far too much wine; it should have been allowed sufficient time to cook off, as it was all I could taste.

My husband’s Mushroom Dusted Haddock ($14) was served with a delicious ragu of mushrooms, tomatoes and leeks in a clam broth. The fresh, moist fish was served with the same braised spinach and disappointing risotto that accompanied my salmon. A Sauvignon Blanc was appropriately paired with the dish.

We intended to share a dessert, but couldn’t agree which one to order – so we each ordered our own. I love ice cream and all things chocolate, so I simply couldn’t resist the Chef-made ice cream with brownie “smoosh.” Chock full of fudgy brownies, the ice cream was intensely flavored with Khalua and Bailey’s Irish Cream.

My husband’s choice, a Warm Apple Tart Tartin, was spectacular. A delicate pastry crust was lined with cinnamon and brown sugar coated thin apple slivers and served with a delicious cinnamon ginger ice cream. We liked each others’ choices so much that we swapped desserts after just a couple of bites!

David’s 388 is a comfortable neighborhood restaurant and gathering spot. You get the sense that most diners probably walk to the restaurant from their nearby homes; everyone seems to know one another. The Chef’s Counter is an enjoyable vantage point from which to observe the chef at work – though it is not conducive to conversation if you are dining with more than one companion. While the young Chef Bryne’s artistically presented cuisine demonstrates more flair than refined culinary skill, overall we enjoyed our evening at David’s 388, and would likely return when in the area again.

Local Foodie Events

In case you missed the various press releases, or haven't yet discovered the Events Calendar on the Portland Food Map, following are a few upcoming events sure to please the most discriminating culinary aficionado.

On October 21st, PCA will host its Thirteenth Annual Epicurean Auction at Merrill Auditorium. Sample culinary delights from 15 of southern Maine's finest restaurants (including Bresca), then climb onto the stage to bid at the live auction, and enjoy delectable desserts.

Harvest on the Harbor commences on October 23rd. A three day culinary event, Harvest on the Harbor celebrates Maine chefs and locally grown and harvested foods with such events as the "Grand Tasting," cooking classes, and a caviar luncheon, to name a few.

October 24th is the fourth annual Caviar Dinner and Wine Pairing at Eve's at the Garden (Portland Harbor Hotel). The event will feature exclusive caviars from Browne Trading in a meal prepared by Jeff Landry, Executive Chef's at Eve's.

On November 5th there will be a Veuve Clicquot Dinner and book signing at Evangeline. Hosted in conjunction with Rabelais, Evangeline's Chef Erik Desjarlais will craft a four course meal; each course will paired with a different Veuve Clicquot cuvee. Seating is limited to 35 patrons.

If only the Caviar and Veuve Clicquot Dinners were a single event, I would be in heaven!

And finally, on November 17th, Five Fifty-Five will host a 7-course dinner with wine pairing in conjunction with Gabe Rucker, chef at Le Pigeon in Portland, Oregon. Like Chef Corey (Five Fifty-Five), Rucker was named one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs in 2007 and is a James Beard nominee for 2008.

Enjoy the festivities!

Newport Room - Bermuda

The only AAA Five Diamond Restaurant in Bermuda, The Newport Room is arguably the best restaurant on the Island.

Serving artfully prepared French cuisine, the Newport Room is decorated in rich, dark mahogany and brass. A tasteful mural of the Newport-to-Bermuda race serves as the room's focal point. With a club-like decor, diners sit in booths lining the walls or in tall-back leather chairs. The atmosphere is formal and reserved.

The chef is from Barbados originally. He cooked at the Newport Room for years, left the Island to train under Thomas Keller at the French Laundry, and ultimately returned to cook, once again, at the Newport Room.

We were promptly seated upon arrival, and while my husband's white linen napkin was placed in his lap, mine was quickly whisked away and replaced with a black napkin. Our waiter explained that was because I was wearing a black dress he didn't want the lint from the white napkin to cling to my clothing. This is one of those small touches that demonstrate the restaurant's commitment to excellence. I can't tell you how many times I have stood up from a meal - particularly lunch - with my black suit covered with white lint. An annoyance that will seem far greater now that I know how easy it is for a restaurant to help patrons avoid this issue.

We started the evening with cocktails while perusing the menu. Everything sounded wonderful and it was with great difficulty that we made our choices. Once we had ordered, we were presented with the amuse bouche, a refreshing chilled shrimp salad served with fried shallots and paired with a simple pureed pea soup shooter.

Our first course, the American Sturgeon Caviar ($25 supplement) was served with warm, made to order Yukon Gold Potato Blinis. This course should probably come with a warning about the time it takes to prepare; it was at least a thirty minute wait while they made the blinis and prepared the accouterments which included Lemon Crème Fraiche, baby micro greens, finely diced hard boiled egg yolks, whites, red onion and parsley. The dark pearls of the California farm raised Sturgeon had a wonderfully nutty taste and buttery texture, which the sommelier paired a with a Charles de la Rouche Brut Grand Cuvee champagne. The champagne's arc of flavors - floral, yeast and green apple - complemented the caviar nicely.

I love homemade pasta and chose the Butternut Squash Tortellini for my appetizer. Light, tender house-made pasta was wrapped around pureed butternut squash, set in decadent Madeira thyme broth, and topped with Parmesan foam. This dish, so spectacular in presentation, flavor and texture, was the standout dish of the evening.

My husband's Lobster Bisque with Tarragon and Mascarpone Quenelle was Flambéd tableside for a dramatic presentation. Chilled lobster meat was surrounded by a warm lobster broth that was thin, not creamy as expected. The accompanying wine, a buttery Far Niente Chardonnay, was exquisite and complemented the buttery rich broth and lobster meat.

The intermezzo, a refreshing watermelon shooter with honeydew foam, effectively cleansed the palate before our next courses were presented. For my entree, I enjoyed the Dover Sole with Citrus Meuniere and Caper Hazelnut Butter. Fileted tableside, the fish was moist and the sauce simultaneously buttery and tangy (I love French sauces!). The fish was accompanied by potatoes au gratin and a baby vegetable medley consisting of bok choy, zucchini, broccoli, snow peas, waxed beans and white asparagus.

My husband's entree, the Bouillabaise, consisted of dungeness crab broth filled with Maine lobster, Scottish langoustines and sea bass. It was a bit bland and lacked the creativity he was seeking in an entree, though he devoured every morsel. The Saintsbury Pinot Noir paired with the dish had strong tannins that softened as the wine opened up, revealing black cherry and cocoa undertones. It was an odd selection to pair with the bouillabaisse; a buttery chardonnay would have better complemented the dish. Nonetheless, my husband enjoyed the wine immensely.

We were too full for dessert, though we did enjoy the plate of complimentary sweet treats from the chef. Our dinner, accompanied by cocktails and one wine pairing was $381, including tip. Set prices for 2, 3 and 4 course dinners are $75, $95 and $110 per person, respectively.

With artfully prepared cuisine and attentive service, the Newport Room is my favorite restaurant in Bermuda. I can't think of another restaurant that even comes close. Rumor has it that the Newport Room may close its doors for good in the near future, given that locals and tourists alike prefer more reasonably priced, casual restaurants. That would be a shame, as Bermuda has a plethora of restaurants, yet so few for those seeking culinary excellence and a refined dining experience.

Hot Suppa - Portland, Maine

Instead of the usual Monday morning alarm, it was my husband who woke me out of my slumber. The problem was, it was my day off - a glorious holiday meant for sleeping late and going for a long run. But my husband had other plans; he wanted to go out for breakfast and had been awake for awhile thinking of all the places we could go. Despite my resistance, it was evident that he was not going to take no for an answer.

And so we ended up at Hot Suppa for breakfast.

Located at 703 Congress Street, we have had Hot Suppa on our list of places to try ever since Amy (front-of-the-house manager at Five Fifty-Five) raved about their breakfast. Hot Suppa doesn't look like much from the outside, in fact, it's a place I would have otherwise avoided if not for the recommendation.

So much for first impressions - Hot Suppa exceeded my expectations.

I arrived just a little grumpy from having my perfect morning disrupted, but the cheerful waitress and strong coffee quickly altered my mood. Wooden booths and formica tables line the front and side walls inside the restaurant which seats approximately 36 patrons. Tall ceilings give the tiny restaurant a feeling of openness.

I was expecting more simple fare at Hot Suppa and was surprised to find both Eggs Benedict and Espresso on the menu. My husband and I started with a grilled blueberry muffin that was wonderfully moist, not too sweet, and loaded with Maine blueberries. The Lobster Benedict special was tempting, but my husband (a Benedict lover) decided to try the Eggs Benedict with Fried Green Tomato ($9.95) instead. Served with fruit and a side of homefries, the Benedict was excellent. The green tomatoes were not at all mushy, and the batter was light, crisp and not overly-greasy. The hollandaise sauce was thinned to exactly the right consistency, with just the right amount of lemon juice. Unfortunately, the homefries - though made on premise - were void of moisture and spice, tasting as though they had been previously frozen.

My sweet tooth was strong the morning we dined so I chose a single blueberry pancake ($3.00 for one or $5.95 for two) and a piece of french toast ($3.00 for one or $6.29 for three pieces). For $1.75 surcharge I was given real maple syrup. The pancake was fluffy, while the french toast was wonderfully flavored with vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg. Both were fabulous and very filling.

The service at Hot Suppa was attentive, with numerous offers to freshen our coffee (critically important given the early hour). The atmosphere was laid back and relaxed; we lingered over breakfast and didn't feel at all rushed. Hot Suppa is a perfect place for a casual breakfast. The menu is diverse and offers something for everyone, the food is well prepared, and the portions are generous.

I rarely dine out for breakfast, given my preference to run in the morning, but the next time my husband drags me out of bed and insists on going out for breakfast, Hot Suppa will definitely be on my short list.

Coddled Eggs

A few years ago my husband and I were watching a movie in which one of the characters ordered coddled eggs for breakfast. My husband didn't have a clue what coddled eggs were, but thought they sounded immensely interesting. So began my quest for egg coddlers, which I ultimately found at Williams Sonoma.

Though not at all difficult to make, they take a little more time than his "usual" breakfast (breakfast burritos), so I reserve making coddled eggs for weekends and holidays. Here's how I prepare them:

First, I have purchased many different types of egg coddlers and have found the glass version to cook the most evenly and to be the easist surface from which to extract the cooked eggs. They cost more than porcelain coddlers, but are well worth the additional investment (if you can find them).

Grease the inside of the egg coddlers (and the covers) with butter to prevent the eggs from sticking.

Crack an egg into each coddler. Add your favorite ingredients on top of the egg. I prefer Smoked Gouda, tomatoes, mushrooms, chives and tarragon. Really you can use most any ingredient you have handy, such as peppers, scallions, sausage or avocado.

Add a tablespoon of egg whites and a drop of light cream, filling the coddlers almost to the rim. Secure the tops on the coddlers and immerse in a pot of boiling water, making sure the water does not rise above the top of the coddlers (it will seep in and make the eggs watery). Boil for 5 minutes if you prefer your eggs runny, or 8-10 minutes if you prefer them over hard.

Serve the coddled eggs on toasted English muffins. For special occasions, top the eggs with red pepper coulis and serve with a side of home fries.

Bon Appetit!