Johnny's Bistro - Falmouth, Maine

Johnny Robinson has re-opened his former Finch's Restaurant as Johnny's Bistro &
Bar. Located at the end of a strip mall on Route 1 in Falmouth, the Bistro looks much the same inside as Finch's did, though a few updates have been made. The bar has been extended and now seats ten; new paint, a new wall mural, and black table cloths covered with butcher paper complete the look.

Much to my husband's dismay, new chairs were not part of the renovation, though they surely should have been; the chairs are small, old and wobbly. He learned from prior visits to Finch's that looking around for a more stable and comfortable chair was a fruitless activity. Robinson has never put much stock in chairs; when he owned Hugo's, the chairs were just as uncomfortable. Johnny is hoping to replace the chairs at his bistro soon, but needs to raise money to pay for them - and the interior updates he has already done. To that end, for a limited time he is selling $1,250 worth of gift certificates for $1,000 as a means of infusing cash into the restaurant.

We dined at Johnny's a week after they re-opened. Though the bistro is supposed to be a casual, "drop in" kind of place, I made reservations in advance. It's a good thing I did, because the restaurant was packed with a mostly older crowd when we arrived at 7pm. It seems that restaurant openings - and re-openings - are always eagerly awaited in southern Maine, especially when they happen in the doldrums of winter.

Johnny showed us to our table and we were soon greeted by our waitress who took our drink order. My husband ordered a Guinness - which they had - though the waitress suggested a Boddingtons instead. He took her suggestion and was glad he did; although it is a pale ale, the large head was almost as creamy as a Guinness Stout.

A platter containing cubed foccacia bread and olive oil was presented for us to enjoy as we perused the menu. My pet peeve about Finch's has carried over to Johnny's - the rationing of their excellent bread! Under the Finch's name, if two people were dining, three paper thin slices of soda bread were dolled out; bread refills were never offered. At Johnny's, the rule of thumb appears to be five tiny cubes of foccacia bread for two people to share. The bread is made on-premise and just like the soda bread, the foccacia was fantastic. Forget the discounted gift certificates - they should sell their bread to increase cash flow.

The updated bistro menu features seven appetizers, five small plates, three salads and four entrees. The night we dined they had an additional appetizer and small plate special. Prices are moderate, with appetizers under $10 and small plates and entrees in the low and high teens respectively.

We ordered the shrimp with curry pan sauce ($8), the chevre and caramelized onion tart ($12) and the Moroccan chicken pie ($13) to share as our appetizers. All three were delivered to the table at once and it became quickly apparent why. The waitstaff seem to be intent on turning over the tables as expediently as possible. Pacing of the meal is quick at Johnny's - which could be a good thing if you're trying to catch a movie - but not so great when you're seeking a relaxing dining experience.

Plump shrimp and sauteed onions, smothered in a perfectly balanced curry pan sauce was our first - and best taste - of the evening. This dish was divine! Unfortunately the same could not be said for the other two dishes. The tart consisted of a buttery crust topped with sweet, caramelized onions and melted chevre. It was rather ordinary, and oddly presented - framed by four overcooked carrot sticks. The Moroccan chicken pie had a flaky phyllo dough, but the shredded chicken filling was dry. An odd pairing of fruit chutney tasted like it was made with pears, though the waitress would not confirm what fruit was used when asked. Regardless, it did nothing to enhance the dish.

The entrees were immensely disappointing. "Crispy" salmon was dressed with a much too sweet honey vermouth pan sauce ($18). Lukewarm lentils and overcooked carrots accompanied the fish. My husband's baked haddock was doused with a Dijon cream sauce ($18). Not only did he suffer from the same lukewarm sides, but his fish was barely warm. Unfortunately, our server was waiting on too many tables; she did not check back at all during our meal to offer drink refills or to see if the food was properly cooked and to our liking.

Our server either assumed that we were not interested in dessert, or was under pressure to turn the table. In either case, I had to ask to hear about the desserts. Three sweet treats were offered that evening - creme brulee, chocolate mousse and "Johnny's Famous Sherry Trifle." We opted to share the trifle ($7) which consisted of layers of pound cake, custard, raspberries, strawberries and whipped cream. Unfortunately, this dessert is made with frozen berries which, when thawed, have a soggy consistency. For $7 I would have expected much more from this dessert than the tasteless creation that was presented.

When I first heard that Finch's would be transformed into a causal restaurant, I thought it was fantastic idea. I imagined that Johnny would go back to his Irish heritage and create a casual neighborhood pub - with simple, but well executed quality fare. Minutes from our house, my husband and I (and soon little companion) could enjoy a meal on nights I didn't feel like cooking, or driving into Portland. Unfortunately, Johnny's has simplified American cuisine in way that is on par with banquet fare - bland, unimaginative, and quickly dished out. Unless he transforms the restaurant space into a bread bakery, I won't be returning.