The Inn at Little Washington - Dinner

At the crossroads of many culinary awards, The Inn at Little Washington has been on our list of places to try for years. The Inn's restaurant, ranked 23rd on Gourmet's List of Best Restaurants, has been awarded Five Stars from Mobile, the AAA Five Diamond Award, and has earned a 29 point rating from Zagat.

Proprietor/chef Patrick O'Connell opened the Inn at Little Washington in 1978 in an abandoned gas station. Though he is not a classically trained chef, O'Connell has received numerous awards, including the James Beard Foundation's Outstanding Chef in America (2001) and Best Chef in the Mid-Atlantic region (1993).

Having travelled from Maine for dinner at The Inn at Little Washington, we felt that the chef's Tasting Menu ($188pp; with wine pairing $288pp) was in order. We were disappointed to learn that they were out of the first course - "A Tin of Sin" - American Ossetra Caviar (supplied by Browne Trading) with Crab & Cucumber Rillette. For a Mobile 5 Star restaurant to be out of an item on their tasting menu at 7:30 p.m. is inexcusable. Still, after discussing substitution options with our waitress, we decided to stick with the Tasting Menu, as opposed to ordering a la carte.

A tea cup of piping hot, creamy parsnip soup garnished with a sprinkle of nutmeg served as our first amuse bouche. It was sublime! Next came a platter featuring a deep fried risotto ball, rockfish with guacamole and cilantro, beet and cranberry mousse, and proscuttio wrapped pear. Many of the flavors introduced in this course would again appear throughout our culinary expedition that evening.

Island Creek Oyster Slurpees was the substitute for the caviar as the first course. Each mollusk featured a different topping: passionfruit, cucumber puree and horseradish. The oysters were paired with a Voirin-Jumel Blanc de Blanc Brut champagne that was not as refined as other champagnes we have enjoyed.

I am allergic to oysters, so my first course was the "Beet Fantasia." The visual presentation of this dish was spectacular. Three varieties of roasted beets were accompanied by beet mousse, citrus and cilantro salsa, and vodka gelatin cubes. The beets were set on a bed of horseradish which gave an interesting kick to what could have been a rather ordinary appetizer.

Wild Mussels topped with breadcrumbs and baked with an herb butter and white wine sauce were to my husband's liking. His third course - Pan Roasted Maine Lobster in Artichoke Barigoule -featured chunks of lobster in a stew consisting of poached artichokes with a "perfumed" vegetable broth and a hint of lemon. A 2006 Inama Soave Classico was the perfect pairing to this dish, having characteristics of both citrus and minerality.

Sesame Crusted Rockfish with Baby Shrimp and Artichokes was my favorite dish of the evening. The delicate rockfish was set in a white wine butter sauce and accompanied by grape tomatoes and pearl onions. The flavors combined spectacularly on the palate. A close second to this standout dish was the Potato Wrapped Tuna Wellington. The tuna was wrapped in nori and a crispy potato skin, then topped with Bernaise Sauce. Unfortunately, the wine pairing, a 2007 Grochau Cellars Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley (Oregon), was much too young and bright.

As many readers know, one of my biggest pet peeves are restaurants that don't offer tastes of wine before pouring full glasses. After a few less than stellar wine pairings, my husband asked the wine steward to allow him a taste before the full glass pour. Given the caliber of the establishment, I was surprised he had to ask.

My husband's favorite dish of the evening was the Peking Duck Breast served atop a creamy pumpkin risotto. Caramelized endive and crisp onion rings added contrasting flavor and texture to the game, though the sweet and creamy risotto was my favorite element of the dish. I am always pleased to see Peking outside the traditional setting of a Chinese restaurant, such as last summer's fabulous dish at Table 31 in Philly.

A fun and creative twist on the traditional sorbet intermezzo served at most restaurants arrived next. A vanilla bean and passion fruit sorbet "dreamsicle" was served atop a bed of toasted coconut on an ice-cold tile. The intent was to use the stick, roll the sorbet in the coconut and eat it like a popsicle! Any stuffiness or air of sophistication went out the window with this course, as diners throughout the restaurant licked and slurped their way through this ice cold creation.

Our final course, a Limoncello Souffle with Lemon Ice Cream was utterly delicious. The souffle was light, fluffy and filled with a delicate lemon liqueur sweet cream sauce. The accompanying Jorge Ordonez Muscat from Spain was surprisingly light - not at all syrupy like some of the Muscats I have tried.

While wine pairings were well-timed, delivered to the table in advance of each dish, I was not offered a single drink refill the entire evening (I had ordered a non-alcoholic juice drink when we were seated). Other disappointments - relative to the accolades this restaurant has received - were the lack of black napkins for those wearing black clothing and the lack of bottled water choices.

I had read that the service at The Inn at Little Washington bordered on perfection. I have been spoiled over the years, eating at some of the finest restaurants in the country so I am perhaps less easily impressed. I found the waitstaff hovering behind the curtain inside the door next to our table - peering out periodically - intrusive and a bit odd.

After dinner we were offered a tour of the kitchen. Luxuriously large and bright, it is a wonderful working environment for the chefs lucky enough to cook at the Inn (Rob Evans of Hugo's is one of the restaurant's well known alumni). The two chef's tables were tucked out of the way - but within perfect visibility to watch the meal preparations. I would definitely choose one of these tables in the kitchen if I were to dine at the Inn again.

Dining at the Inn at Little Washington is certainly a special experience. The decor of the Inn alone is worth seeing; dinner and an overnight stay is ideal for those seeking a wonderfully relaxing and romantic getaway. The Inn at Little Washington is not a restaurant worth flying for (unlike Alinea, The French Laundry & Joel Robuchon). Similar to my opinion of Charlie Trotter's, which seemingly rests on its laurels, the restaurant is a time capsule of its heyday in the 90s. The passion and creativity characteristic of many up-and-coming chefs appeared to be missing from the cuisine and restaurant aura. Still, it is likely one of the best meals you will find in the vicinity of D.C. and definitely worth the trek if you are visiting the area or live within driving distance.

P.S. Last week's post has a recap of the tea service, breakfast and our accommodations.