Evangeline Tasting Menu

It all started with an innocent email from my husband to Erik Desjarlais last March inquiring whether Erik was offering a special menu to celebrate Evangeline's 1 year anniversary (April 18th).

Erik responded that likely they were going to celebrate in May, but suggested we come in for a Tasting Menu as my last meal before having the baby. My husband loved the idea and worked out the details with Erik about food preferences, allergies, etc. The day before the big night, the doctors broke the news to me that the little guy needed to join the world immediately.

As we waited in the prep room at the hospital, my husband was forced to send Erik the sad news from his Blackberry – "No Go tomorrow night. At hospital now. Baby arriving shortly." Of course Erik understood, but we had no idea when we would be able to reschedule the dinner. Between the sleep deprivation and Swine Flu scares, almost two months passed before we figured out the fine dining thing with baby.

Finally, with a sitter in place, and a few trial runs going out for shorter meals, my comfort level increased to the point that we could partake in a longer meal. It was worth the wait!

The Tasting Menu included some of our favorites from Bandol (Erik's former restaurant), and new dishes based on our preferences. The extraordinary three hour meal included 16 dishes over 10 courses:

Course 1 - American White Sturgeon Caviar, Crème Fraîche and Blini -- American Caviar is healthier to consume for the baby because it comes from less polluted waters. I find it has a fresher taste than Beluga and Ossetra. It is less salty, yet still retains the classic nutty and buttery taste.

Course 2 - Seared Black Bass with Australian Black Truffles and White Asparagus. The perfectly cooked fish was complimented by the earthy truffles; the asparagus was an ideal foundation of texture.

Course 3a - Maine Lobster Broth with Poached "Lobster Mitts" and Black Truffle Mousse. Simply decadent.

Course 3b - Duck Consommé with Roasted Yellow Beets, Goat Milk Ricotta Gnocchi with Chervil. My husband was pleased that the Gnocchi had the firmness to hold together in the consommé, yet still had a light, fluffy texture.

Course 4a - Roasted Ahi Tuna Loin with Maine White Bean Cassoulet and Braised Greens. This was my single favorite dish from Erik's former restaurant, Bandol.

Course 4b - Sautéd Spotted Skate Wing with Asparagus and Pearl Onions, Brown Butter, Capers and Lemon. This was my husband's favorite dish from Bandol. He is always disappointed when Skate is prepared in any other way.

Course 5a - Poached Maine Lobster Tail with Creamed Corn, Leeks and Lobster Butter Sauce. This was the highlight of the meal. I almost didn't offer my husband a bite because I knew he would beg for more. I love Erik's sauces, and this one showcased his well-honed sills.

Course 5b - Poached Maine Lobster Tail with Pommes Puree, Trumpet Royale Mushrooms, and Foie Gras Sauce. Lobster and Foie Gras Sauce is one of best marriages I've had on a plate. The meaty mushroom and potato starch added a zen balance to the dish. Incredible!

Course 6a - Aiguillette of Pekin Duck Breast with Fig, Collards and Foie Gras Sauce. The duck was tender, with a wonderfully crispy skin. Duck and fig together is one of my favorite combinations.

Course 6b - Roulade of Natural Chicken Breast with English Peas and Sweet Carrot Puree. The chicken was wrapped in bacon and roasted, leaving behind a heavenly smokiness. The carrot puree was amazing, as was the colorful presentation.

Course 7a - Kunik Cheese with Marinated Plums and Honey. The firm flesh of the plum paired well with the mild and buttery Triple Cream (Goat and Jersey Cow milk). The honey was a deliciously sweet accent.

Course 7b - Landaff Cheese with Figs, Roasted Sweet Peppers and Greens. The mild and semi-firm raw cow's milk cheese was itself, a perfect base for the other ingredients.

Course 8 - Strawberry Gin Sorbet with Shortcake Crumble and Vanilla Crème Fraiche. Utterly refreshing.

Course 9 - Crème Brulee - Near the end of the meal, it was prudent to serve it in egg holders, otherwise we would not have had room for the final course....

Course 10a - Cluizel Chocolate Chip Cookie, Milk Cocktail. The high cocoa content of the chocolate was balanced by the alcohol in the "milk cocktail."

Course 10b - Chocolate Pot De Crème with Crème Chantilly, Raspberries and Cinnamon. Chocolate is the perfecting ending to an extraordinary meal; the cinnamon pot de crème did not disappoint.

Wines:

We started with glasses of the Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose Champagne. I gained an appreciation for Rose Champagne in St. Marrten (of all places). The blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay create a more complex taste than traditional champagne.

After the caviar Steven opened a Kermit Lynch 2007 Chateau Graville Lacoste Bordeaux Blanc. The white bordeaux was a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon; it held up well to a variety of the dishes, without being overpowering.

A 2006 Domaine des Corbillières Tourain Cabernet Franc came out ahead of the Duck and Chicken dishes. The mellow and fruit forward wine also paired well with the cheese course.

We ended with the evening with a glass of Duckpond Semillon. This is my new favorite dessert wine! It was sweet but light, without the syrupy characteristic of many ports and dessert wines.

During many courses, my husband became speechless, with only the sounds of satisfaction breaking the silence between bites. We both agreed that this was the best meal we have had in over year -- since we ate at Joel Robuchon. The amount of effort and level of execution of each dish showcased the talents of our favorite French Chef. Erik’s passion for the craft came across in each enchanting bite.

Erik will soon combine efforts with his talented wife, Krista with the launch of 12 Seats. After our Tasting Menu, I can only imagine the level of delight the collaboration will bring their 12 lucky guests. If you cannot wait until the first dinner on October 25th (almost sold out), Evangeline offers the Tasting Menu with 24 hours notice. I recommend going on a quiet night, as we did, such as a Tuesday or Wednesday, for a relaxed evening of well executed French inspired cuisine.