Miyake - Portland, Maine

The number one criticism from my readers over the last two years has been my review of Miyake. No matter how many positive comments I receive, it’s always, "I love your blog, but I disagree with the Miyake review." I considered returning last year to give them another try, but with my pregnancy and the requirement to avoid raw fish, I thought it best to wait until my dietary restrictions had been lifted. So after a two year hiatus, I finally followed my readers’ advice and returned. Boy have things changed!

I noted on my prior visit that the interior was stark and utilitarian; it has been greatly improved. The green cement walls are now decorated and the plastic chairs have been replaced. The restaurant still does not have a liquor license, and while I love the economics of BYOB, I do miss the ability to try different sakes by being relegated to the one bottle I bring. Fortunately, Joe Ricchio is now working at Miyake and was able to suggest one of his favorite bottles that we picked up at Downeast Beverage on the way to dinner - Sato no Homare (Pride of the Village). This Junmai Ginjo sake is made at a brewery with a 850 year history. It has a wonderful floral taste that complimented our sushi feast perfectly.

Miyake is a tiny restaurant that I would not describe as "baby friendly." Even so, we called ahead of time and Joe figured out how they could accommodate our little guy – getting a little creative with a corner table and the baby jogger. It all worked and he slept comfortably through the duration of our meal.

Based on the recommendations from my readers, we avoided the more traditional sushi and nigiri selections. We opted instead for specials that showcased Chef Masa’s talents - including the Omakse II - a 5 course variety of special dishes and fusion nigiri tasting ($50pp).

We began our meal with a bowl of Mushroom Miso Soup. Locally foraged, meaty mushroom added an earthy flavor to the traditional miso broth. Tuna three ways ($13) consisted of sashimi, tartar, and tuna marinated with sweet sake soy sauce. The flavors of Japanese mayonnaise, pickles and tangy soy sauce complemented the fish, which simply melted in my mouth.

My favorite tuna dish of the evening was the Bluefin and Avocado Roll ($18) topped with diced Toro, truffle oil, spicy sesame oil and scallions. It was the best tuna I’ve had since my visit to San Diego’s famed Tuna Harbor.

Besides the Bluefin Tuna, the other standout dish of the evening was the raw lobster topped with garlic oil. I had never before tried the crustacean raw – I actually prefer it to cooked lobster. This dish was part of the Omakse tasting menu and also contained salmon, bluefin tuna and hand cut daikon radish – so many amazing flavors on one plate!

The spicy crab ($10) was broiled in a mayonnaise glaze and served with spicy Japanese red pepper, tobiko and radish sprouts – another of my favorite bites that evening. The Tai Snapper Ceviche ($16) had a "bright" flavor – diced and tossed with lemon/lime juice, cilantro, shiso and rolled in soy paper.

Other treats from the tasting menu included Bluefin Tuna Rib braised in soy sauce, Swordfish Toro served with shaved brussel sprouts, Eel with mushrooms, and a giant Scallop served with butter poached lobster and a miso glaze.

The Nigiri Fusion dish contained Yellowtail with jalapeno pepper, spicy bluefin tuna, pink snapper, Tai snapper and a tasty pine nut salad. The combination of flavors and textures danced on the tongue. And though we had plenty food, we couldn’t resist the green tea tiramisu for dessert, a light and refreshing ending to a memorable meal.

My one criticism of the evening (albeit minor), was the abundance of flavored oils. The quality of the fish certainly didn’t necessitate its usage. And while I don’t object to the occasional drop of oil to enhance a dish, it became tiresome after having it so frequently that evening.

What Miyake does best is creative sushi. Think O Ya Boston, not neighborhood sushi joint. I’ve updated my best restaurants in Portland list to include Miyake as the most creative sushi in Portland. I’m pleased with the improvements in ambiance and quality of food, and will definitely be a repeat visitor going forward.