The Salt Exchange is now open for lunch and dinner. Located at 245 Commercial Street in Portland's Old Port, the restaurant has a beautiful interior and is more formal than I had expected. The dining room comprises half the restaurant, while the other half is filled with a long curved bar, a few tables in the lounge, and an open kitchen. White linens grace the tables; exposed brick and an industrial lime green ceiling complete the look.
In stark contrast to the scene at El Rayo during opening week, The Salt Exchange was nearly empty the day we dined for lunch. While I would define the menu as "cosmopolitan tapas," the owners state on their blog
that rather than tapas, they are serving "New American small plates." Either way, the plates are priced between $5 and $15. Our waiter suggested that we order two items each for lunch - if you don't want to leave hungry (as we did), I would suggest at least three plates - possibly four for dinner.
For dinner, the menu features "Amuse" (small bites) such as Pickled Maine Dilly Beans ($3) and Salt Cod Cromesquis ($5), two Soups , Cold Plates including Pork Pate ($8) and Caesar Salad ($7), and Hot Plates featuring
the likes of Pea Risotto ($9) and Brioche Crusted Fish ($12). The lunch menu has eleven items, most of which are also on the dinner menu, though there are a few variations.
We opted to try the two soups: Spiced Maine Coast Cioppino ($12) and Green Asparagus ($7), the BBQ Duck Sliders ($9) and the Pea Arancini with Wild Mushroom Ragout ($6). The Cioppino was filled with white fish and mussels and topped with grilled sourdough crostini. Crab tempura was served alongside the stew, and should have stayed in the fryer a minute longer so that it was crispy. The "spiced" stew lacked flavor - it seemed like there was an ingredient missing and was deemed rather ordinary by my husband. He actually had to add salt -- and no, the irony wasn't lost on us.
Speaking of salt, our expectations were a bit high walking in, given the name. When we visited Amelia Island, we dined at a restaurant called "Salt" where we were presented 40 different types of salt - a little bit of gimmick, but I loved the focus on this key ingredient. When we sat down at The Salt Exchange and found Morton in a shaker,
and not Maldon in a dish, we realized the name wasn't driving the dining experience.
I fared well with my Asparagus Soup. Topped with a delicate goat cheese mousse, the soup was delicious. The Pea Arancini (deep fried risotto balls) was light and not at all greasy. The Duck Sliders were my husband's favorite; the mustard and vinegar slaw that topped the duck added a nice contrast to the tender fowl. He could have put down about a half dozen of these mini sandwiches for his lunch.
We were still quite hungry when we finished our four small plates and decided to share the Orange Blossom Poached Rhubarb for dessert. Lemon custard was topped with a meringue cookie and surrounded by tart rhubarb and sweet orange sections. The dish was light and the flavor combination worked well together.
It's our own fault that we left the Salt Exchange still hungry - we certainly could have ordered more - but there is only so much I am willing to spend on a weekday lunch. Our bill was nearly $50 (before tip), without alcohol.
Bottom Line: Although the Salt Exchange is an interesting concept, I left with the feeling that dining off a bar menu at one of the better Portland restaurants would be more satisfying and easier on the wallet.